So you have got your new Elite clips, filled them with ammo and loaded them into your blasters. Ready for Nerf games!
But wait! Notice the clear part of the clip is facing the right side?
Its fine for left-handed users... but for right-handed users it means they cannot see how much ammo is in the clip, instead all their opponents can see the ammo count clearly!
Here is an example of the Elite 18-dart clip in a Longshot:
Right-handed users cannot see their ammo count...
...but their opponents can see it clearly!
Studies suggest that up to 80-90% of the world population is
right-handed, which means alot of users (like me!) will have this common issue with their
Elite clips.
So here is how to solve it, with some simple modding steps.
Step 1:
Cut or sand down the raised clip restriction areas at the top part of the clip.
Original clip (left) vs modded clip (right).
Make sure the raised areas are flattened and smooth.
Step 2:
Use a dremel or hobby knife to cut a clip-lock notch on the side of the clip. Mirror the exact notch position from the other side.
Ensure that the new clip-lock notch is cut at the correct position.
Final Step:
Clean up the notch cuts and test load it into blasters. Its done!
Original Elite 18-dart clip (left) vs Modded Elite 18-dart clip (right).
:: Results ::
Here is the modded Elite 18-dart clip loaded into a Longshot.
Right-handed users can now see their ammo count...
...but their opponents cannot! :)
Enjoy your improved Elite Clips!
Note: This mod can be done on any N-Strike clips or drum magazines too.
--
Additional Note:
For blasters like the Nerf Retaliator or Recon, the modded clips will get blocked by the casing part in front of the clip well (as shown below).
Therefore you'll need to also cut off the raised section on the clip, then it can fit into those particular blasters.
- Update! -
For blasters like the Nerf Stampede or Rayven, their clip detection pressure switches are in a position that will be affected by the unused notch, hence the system will "think" that there is no clip loaded.(Thanks to harpuia for this tip!) Therefore modders will have to either tape down or bypass those pressure switches, or just use tape to seal the unused notch.
This Mod Guide will cover performance mods for the Nerf Retaliator.
Mods covered:
- Air Restrictor (AR) Removal
- Spring Replacement
- Locks Removal
Note:
These mods are also applicable to the Nerf Rampage as they both share similar
internal bolt and plunger mechanisms.
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
:: AR Removal ::
Step 1: Disassemble
your Retaliator. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the
casing.
Step 2: Take out the bolt sled assembly. Disassemble the plunger mechanism components and remove the plunger casing from the bolt system.
This is what the bolt looks like with the air restrictors still intact.
Step 3: Use a long screwdriver and a hammer, carefully knock out
the air restrictor assembly though the back of the bolt.
You can also use other tools (ie. power drills) to remove the air restrictors too. Just be careful not to damage the bolt in the process.
This is what the bolt looks like with the air restrictors removed.
At this point in the process, you will probably notice that a leftover part of the air restrictor (the 3 pronged piece) is still inside the bolt, and it will tend to rattle loosely back and forth. Simply apply a drop of glue inside the rear section of the bolt and let that loose piece adhere to the back so that it doesn't move anymore.
:: Spring Replacement ::
One of the ways to increase the speed of air delivery through the bolt is to
replace the stock spring with a stronger aftermarket spring.
There are many different springs with different sizes and spring force ratings. Spring choice will depend on your usage.
This example below shows a stock spring (top photo) vs. an aftermarket 8kg load spring (bottom photo).
Notice that the stronger aftermarket spring i use is made shorter than the stock spring, this is because the spring wire is thicker, hence it takes up more space when compressed.
The reduction in spring length allows the plunger system to accommodate the extra space required by the aftermarket spring (or else the plunger will not be able to catch properly).
Note that when using shorter aftermarket springs, the bolt lock should also be removed to ensure that the bolt does not get stuck during usage (see below for more information on bolt lock removal).
Here is what they look like installed within the plunger system.
Note that in this plunger design, the spring has to be kept within the catch system dimensions to work.
:: Special Notes ::
Generally for blasters with air restrictors removed, padding is usually recommended to be installed on the plunger. This is because without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on bolt impact.
But in the Retaliator plunger system, the plunger itself features a narrowed internal area at the front section, this creates a sort of "buffer" effect and prevents the plunger from striking the bolt.
During modding tests, it turns out that plunger padding wasn't necessary in this blaster. Even without any plunger padding, when the
blaster was fired, there was only a
muffled impact sound (instead of the loud cracking noise common in previous blaster designs).
In addition, the stock o-ring already has an excellent seal, so there was no need to replace it. Note that if the plunger seal is too tight, it may create excessive resistance and slow down the plunger, resulting in noticeably reduced performance.
:: Locks Removal ::
Remove the bolt and trigger locks. This is an optional modding step, but it is highly recommended (especially in blasters with air restrictors removed and using shorter aftermarket springs).
With the locks removed, it allows users to be able to release a primed blaster in a controlled manner. This is more convenient than having to fire an extra shot just to de-prime the blaster and helps prevent dry firing.
The user can simply push back the bolt anytime, pull the trigger to release the catch, then ease the plunger forward under support with the priming grip.
In addition, as mentioned earlier, the bolt lock removal mod is also required when using shorter aftermarket springs, to ensure that the bolt does not get stuck during usage.
Important Note: With the bolt and trigger locks removed, users have to ensure that the bolt sled is pushed all the way forward before firing (do not fire when the breech is partially or fully open).
For additional reference, here is the bolt lock removal procedure for the Nerf Rampage (photo shows the left side of the Rampage casing):
:: Final Step ::
Assemble everything back together and its all done!
:: Modified Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Range Test Video ::
Note that Elite foam darts can achieve similar ranges too, but their overall performance and accuracy tend to be rather erratic when used in modded blasters (ie. they still curve and swerve in flight), so their results are less consistent.
The tests were done under controlled conditions and the
results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ
depending on materials and mod techniques used).
:: Additional Notes ::
For modding reference, i've also tested the brass breech mod on one of my other Retaliator units and its ranges improved further by another 10-15ft.
Note that although an improved breech system
with 100% air seal does help increase power efficiency and range, the overall performance improvements are still based on their existing plunger air volumes (compared to larger direct plunger blasters like Longshots or Stampedes).
Xplorer is a company in Singapore that designs and produces ready-made aftermarket performance parts and kits for Nerf blasters.
The Xpower Stampede Kit upgrades the stock Stampede breech system to an improved breech design that enables more efficient air flow from the plunger to the barrel, hence generating more power and longer ranges.
The parts in this kit are individually CNC machined from a multi-axis milling machine and further hand finished to ensure high quality and fitment.
:: Overview ::
This kit comprises of just 2 main parts, the Xpower receiver piece (with attached copper barrel) and the Xpower bolt tip piece.
The included copper barrel is 12cm (approx 4.7") in length and designed specifically to fit stefans (custom foam darts), the dart fit is similar to 9/16" K&S brass barrels or 0.528" ID PETG barrels.
The Xpower system works by utilizing a funnel design in the receiver. When chambering a foam dart, the bolt is guided into the receiver funnel as it moves forward and pushes the foam dart securely into the barrel, then the Stampede fires and the bolt retracts back. This completes one firing cycle.
In the photo below, you can see the funnel design in the Xpower receiver.
In order to connect into the funneled receiver, a matching Xpower bolt tip piece will be installed on the existing bolt to enable this system to work.
Note that the Xpower Stampede breech is designed for short-length stefans (up to 3.5cm length), this is to ensure high performance, consistency and accuracy.
This kit is designed to be very simple to install and can be done by anyone with basic modding skills.
:: Installation Guide ::
For the system to work optimally, ensure that the Stampede is already modded with the various basic AR removal, aftermarket spring and voltage increase mods beforehand, as shown in my Nerf Stampede Mod Guide.
Proceed to remove all the original parts and mechanisms from the front of the blaster.
Step 1: Start with the receiver section.
Slot the Xpower receiver and copper barrel into the original orange plastic barrel, use some electrical or duct tape to wrap a few ring layers around the copper barrel so that it sits properly within it. Install the 3 machine screws to secure it to the casing.
The receiver section is done!
Step 2: On to the bolt section.
Take the original orange plastic bolt and draw guide lines across the front part of the bolt tip, note where the dotted guide lines are drawn in the photo below.
Also draw a guide line at the top of the bolt to indicate the bolt tip alignment.
Use a Dremel with a cutting wheel and sanding bit (or other suitable cutting tool) to cut the bolt tip at the guide lines. Make sure the cut is clean and sanded smooth.
Glue the Xpower bolt tip to the original bolt. Ensure that it is aligned accurately. Use high strength glue to ensure a durable bond.
The bolt section is done!
Step 3: Install all the parts into the Stampede.
Test the bolt movement to ensure that the Xpower bolt tip chambers into the Xpower receiver smoothly and is also able to retract back automatically on its own without resistance.
After everything is assembled. This is what the Xpower Stampede breech will look like.
In this demo & test fire of the installed Xpower Stampede Kit, i am using a combination of 9kg load spring with 16.8V power:
Note that the Stampede's range and rate-of-fire will vary depending on the spring load and power source/voltage. Users can customize it to their own preference.
:: Comparison Tests & Modding Tips ::
Many modders have been asking about the difference between the Brass breech and Xpower breech for the Stampede.
Here is a comparison test video that demonstrates the performance difference between both breech designs, based on equivalent spring loads and optimization mods done:
Note that this comparison test is not meant to establish which design is better, its just a process to understand their differences and how to optimize them. There are pros and cons to both designs (beyond just range distance), so its up to users to determine the most suitable design for their usage.
The variation in their ranges are due to the characteristics of their different breech designs.
The brass breech design is more complex and requires skill to build and tune but when built well it features a full air seal, while the funnel design of the Xpower breech is simpler and much easier to install, but sometimes there may still be tiny gaps in the seal, hence resulting in slightly shorter ranges at equivalent spring loads (each setup is different due to parts variations, so it may just need further fine-tuning to get a full air seal).
:: Summary ::
Overall, the Xpower Stampede kit is an ideal aftermarket performance enhancement for modders who are looking for high quality ready-made parts. It saves alot of modding time and requires minimal installation work.
For non-modders, this kit grants instant improvement to their blasters without the need to spend hours modding and tuning. Xplorer also offers their customers installation services for the blaster kits too (subject to their technical staff manpower availability).
With the right spring load and setup, the Xplorer Stampede kit offers users excellent modded performance and greatly enhances the effectiveness of their Stampedes. :)
Disclaimer:
Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your
blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
:: AR Removal ::
Step 1: Disassemble your Snapfire 8. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing layers. Remove the plunger tube.
Step 2: Look down the plunger tube, you will see the air restrictor assembly.
Step 3: Use a wire cutter and snip off the 4 support posts holding the air restrictor assembly, all the AR parts will fall out.
The ARs have been removed! Easy.
:: Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal ::
This
mod is for users who want to be able to
use solid core or short length DIY foam darts (ie. stefans) or as a modding step before
re-barrel mods.
Detach the rotating barrel from the casing.
Use a wire cutter to remove the dart posts.
Clean up all the debris and sharp edges, make sure the back of the turret is smooth and flat.
I've found the existing turret barrel fit and length ideal for the 3.25cm length customized stefans that i use.
Assemble everything... now you have a stefan compatible Snapfire 8!
With the stefans sitting inside the turret barrels, nothing is protruding out of the front, therefore its much easier to store or holster the Snapfire 8 in this configuration too. :)
:: Modified Nerf Snapfire 8 - Range Test Video ::
:: Sample Test Fire Data ::
PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
Distance is measured at where the shot lands (Average of 8 shots).
Modded Snapfire 8 (AR Removal & Dart Post Removal) Ammo: Customized foam + 1.1 gram soft silicone tip weight
"Speed" Mode Range = 35-40ft
"Power" Mode Range = 45-50ft
Note
that the tests were done under controlled conditions with customized
foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results
may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).
:: Side Notes ::
Additional plunger to turret seal improvements were not required as the Snapfire 8 uses a system
that pushes the plunger against the turret during the firing process,
thereby already creating an excellent turret seal.
In addition, i've not done any stronger aftermarket spring installations as i'm focusing on retaining
the blaster's rate-of-fire and ease of use... and my trigger finger doesn't exactly have superhuman strength yet! :)
For modding reference, here is a quick overview of a new "simpler" shotgun grip design i came up with for the Longshot, which i will refer to as the PVC Shotgun Grip.
It is based on a similar concept as my Polycarbonate Shotgun Grip design, but instead of using polycarbonate, this new design is made from just PVC pipes instead
Imho, its not going to win any prizes for looks (kinda reminiscent of the fallout/mad max "post-apocalyptic" style though), but its functional and it works. :)
Modders who are already familiar with making shotgun grips should be able to easily figure out how its constructed just by checking out the following photos.
The PVC grip uses a 10cm length of 65mm SingaPlastics PVC pipe (thinwall version / 70mm ID) and it is heat shaped (i simply put it into hot water to soften the PVC until it becomes an oval shape of 60mm tall and 80mm wide), so that the grip can be fitted on the Longshot without requiring any further modification to the casing. Channels are cut into the grip to allow it to slide along the Longshot's existing groove at the bottom part of the front section.
Note that the oval grip shape is designed to create the extra space to fit around the Longshot's existing bipod mounts (otherwise the casing mounts will need to be cut away to fit it).
The grip arms are made of 34cm lengths of 13mm SingaPlastics PVC pipe, and they are attached on to the grip with M4 bolts. The spacing between the arms and grip are supported with 2 x M4 nuts per bolt which act as standoffs.
I used a 4" length 4.5mm diameter bolt and nut, along with nylon spacers to thread through the original priming handle points and secure the arms to the bolt sled.
So far, this grip design has been field tested to be strong enough for use with most modded Longshots (successfully tested with up to 20kg load springs), and the oval grip shape is ergonomic and comfortable for users too.
There is no drilling or cutting of the original Longshot casing required, and the grip can be easily transferred between Longshot units.
Overall, its a relatively simple build method and an alternative for modders who prefer using PVC pipe materials for their mods. :)
This mod guide will look into my "Brass Breech" modification for the Nerf Stampede.
Introduction:
The stock stampede plastic breech does not have an air-tight bolt to barrel seal, hence the plastic bolt itself is essentially the barrel. Once the foam dart is fired out the bolt, the foam dart already starts losing power and velocity. In addition, most of the air pressure from the plunger is wasted once the foam dart leaves the bolt.
The design objective of an air-tight brass breech system is to create a 100% air-tight seal all the way from the plunger through to the barrel, thereby providing efficient air pressure delivery to propel the foam darts further.
This would result in more power within each shot, with greater firing distance and faster dart velocity.
For a Stampede brass breech to work, it requires the air-tight connection of matching brass tubes and a guide cover to ensure that all the moving parts are aligned properly.
My design is optimized to work with stefans (short length customized foam darts), although it could be adapted to use normal length foam darts, they usually wouldn't perform as accurately or consistently, and may result in much higher rates of jams.
The following guide will cover my customized version of the "Brass Breech" mod.
Credits:
My brass breech design for the Stampede is based on the excellent "PVC guide cover" design by Oxymoron at the OzNerf forum, full credit goes to him for that design.
The "Brass Breech" mod is a more advanced mod project that should only be performed by those who are already familiar with modding the Stampede.
For new modders, please refer to my Nerf Stampede Mod Guide to get familiar with the modding basics first.
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
Lets start...
Step 1: You will need to obtain 3 different sizes of brass tubes (Brand: K&S Engineering) and a suitable PVC pipe for nesting them into.
The brass tube sizes are: 1/2", 17/32" and 9/16". All of them are 0.014" wall thickness. They are usually supplied at hobby shops in either 1 ft or 3 ft length tubes.
I use a 13mm SingaPlastics brand PVC pipe which can nest the 9/16" brass tube. This pipe will be used to create the PVC guide cover.
Note that the inner diameters (ID) of PVC pipes often tend to have variations, even within the same length of pipe, so you have to test different sections and make sure it fits the brass tubes before usage.
Its recommended to prepare and polish the brass tubes with some metal polish to remove any oxidization that may have occurred both externally and inside the tubes, this helps smoothen out the surfaces for lower friction and better fit.
As you can see, the brass tubes nest perfectly within each other and they all form an instant 100% air-tight seal. Those who have worked with brass breech systems will be very familiar with this unique characteristic. :)
Step 2:
Lets start with the PVC guide cover, this is the most essential part of the Stampede brass breech system. The guide cover ensures that the moving brass bolt chambers each foam dart into the barrel properly and consistently.
Take the PVC pipe and mount the N-Strike clip on it.
Use a marker to trace the outline of the clip's shape.
Use a Dremel with cut-off wheel to cut out the traced lines.
As the top section of the guide cover ends up being a rather thin strip of PVC (which will tend to flex too much), i cut out another shaped part from a larger 16mm SingaPlastics brand PVC pipe which is then glued on the top to further reinforce and stiffen that section.
The PVC guide cover is done!
Step 3:
Now we proceed on to the brass barrel section.
In my example, i use a 21 cm length (8+ inch) of 9/16" brass tube as the barrel. It is nested and glued into the PVC guide cover.
Use a Dremel with sanding bit to bevel the inner edges of the brass barrel, this creates a funnel design to enable smoother chambering of the foam darts and brass bolt.
I positioned the barrel and guide cover assembly to align with the internal dimensions of the Stampede, an additional PVC pipe was nested at the front of the barrel to help keep it in line with the Stampede's front casing structure piece.
The orange collar piece is also positioned and glued to the PVC guide cover to establish a fixed securing point to the blaster casing.
The brass barrel section is done!
Step 4:
Next we proceed to the brass bolt section.
Use a pipe cutter to cut away the stock plastic bolt, as shown in this photo.
To make the brass bolt parts, use a Dremel to separately cut out a set of brass tube sections in the following lengths:
1/2" brass tube: 11 cm
17/32" brass tube: 2 cm (2 x spacer sections)
9/16" brass tube : 9 cm
These are my custom tube measurements for the Stampede brass breech system.
These measurements need to be as accurate as possible. Any variations may affect the overall structure and air seal of the breech system.
Used a Dremel with sanding bit to bevel the outer edges of the brass bolt front section, this will help to further enable smoother chambering of the foam darts and brass bolt into the brass barrel.
Here is my Nested Brass Tubes Cut-Away Diagram:
Nest the assembled brass bolt into the plunger casing.
Use the strongest glue you can get to glue everything together. I use "Selleys Super Strength" 2-part slow-curing epoxy glue (curing time of 3 days!). Make sure the glue cures completely for maximum bond strength.
Note that the 1/2" brass tube acts as the air channel and helps to reduce dead space, but not too much to create an air restriction.
The 17/32" brass tube will chamber the foam dart and connect into the 9/16" brass barrel, this is what creates the 100% air seal.
The brass bolt section is done!
Step 5:
Sleeve the brass bolt into the PVC guide cover. Test the parts movement and connection with the brass barrel.
The brass bolt must be able to move smoothly within the PVC guide cover without resistance.
If there is resistance, use a Dremel with sanding bit to widen the inner diameter (ID) of the PVC guide cover until it fits.
When the 17/32" brass bolt connects into the 9/16" brass barrel, it should have a 100% air-tight seal. Test the seal by closing the breech, then manually compressing the plunger while blocking the barrel exit, there should be resistance felt in the plunger rod.
Next, install all the parts into the Stampede.
Test the parts fit and test the movement of the brass bolt. Make sure everything moves smoothly.
If there are parts which encounter resistance, either loosen or trim the fit and test again.
Assemble everything together, keep testing the movement of the parts as you assemble the blaster.
Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 6 darts).
Brass Breech Stampede (9kg Load Spring) Ammo: Customized FBR foam + 1.1 gram soft silicone tip weight
PTG = 95-105 ft
ATG = 120-130 ft
Note that the test was done indoors with customized foam darts and the results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).
Important User Tips:
- Short length customized stefans work best with this breech system, make sure that the stefans used are in perfect condition and fit the brass barrel properly (not too narrow or not too wide). In addition, ensure that the back portions of the stefans are rounded without any excess foam sticking out which might get clipped by the brass breech when it closes. Taking care of these various factors will greatly reduce the chances of jamming.
- With the clip and trigger locks removed, do not put your fingers into the breech section when the blaster is in operation, as this can result in injuries.
- The better the foam dart fit in the brass barrel, the better the range results.
Variants:
For fans of minimized Stampedes... check out the brass breech mod done on my "SMG" Variant!
Note the extra length of PVC pipe and coupler covering the brass barrel in front, it is designed to cover the brass tube edges for safety in Nerf games. :)
