Mods covered:
- Air Restrictor (AR) Removal
- Plunger Air Release Seal
- Plunger Padding
- O-Ring Replacement
- Voltage Increase
- Aftermarket Spring Replacement
- Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal (Optional)
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
:: AR Removal ::
Step 1: Disassemble your Swarmfire. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing layers.
Step 2: Open the motorized spring plunger casing. Move aside the cover, rotating barrel and battery sled.
Step 3: Separate all the spring plunger parts and gear components.
Step 4: Take the plunger tube and simply use flat-head precision screwdrivers to pry open the plunger cap... the AR components will just pop out.
Discard the AR components and glue the plunger cap back on with 2-part epoxy glue.
Alternatively, the AR can also be drilled out with a motorized drill or dremel. Just make sure the plunger and seals are not damaged in the process.
Left Photo: Cap Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Cap After AR Removal.
Left Photo: Tube Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Tube After AR Removal.
Note that the white colored "target" shaped plastic grill has to be intact, that part is required as an impact barrier for the plunger rod.
The AR removal mod is done!
:: Plunger Air Release Seal ::
Close up the air relief hole on the side of the plunger tube. This is essential to create an air-tight plunger seal.
Top Photo: Open / Bottom Photo: Closed.
In my example, i use 2-part epoxy glue to fill in the air relief hole.
:: Plunger Padding ::
Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on tube impact.
This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger and tube casing, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impacts on the tube (hence the loud cracking sound during firing) over time, the plunger and tube may become damaged.
Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.
In the following photo, i attached a 20mm diameter soft bumper padding to the tip of the plunger.
The 20mm diameter soft bumper pads i used in the above example are from a brand called "Volkmar-Fix", they can be found at most common hardware shops.
:: O-Ring Replacement ::
To test the plunger air seal, block the tube exit and try to push the plunger rod into the plunger casing, if the air seal is optimized, there should be some resistance in the plunger. It should still be able to move smoothly when the tube exit is not blocked.
If the plunger seal is loose, simply replace the stock o-ring with a more air-tight aftermarket o-ring.
From my experience, the plungers in different Swarmfire units can differ slightly in diameter, therefore you may have to test various o-rings to find the ideal ones that fit properly for an air-tight seal.
Photo Left: Stock O-Ring / Photo Right: Aftermarket O-Ring
:: Voltage Increase ::
The voltage feed to the Swarmfire's motor determines its speed.
To increase the Swarmfire's Rate of Fire (RoF), simply increase the amount of voltage to its motor.
Step 1: Disassemble your Swarmfire. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing layers.
Step 2: Open the motorized spring plunger casing. Move aside the cover, rotating barrel and battery sled.
Step 3: Separate all the spring plunger parts and gear components.
Step 4: Take the plunger tube and simply use flat-head precision screwdrivers to pry open the plunger cap... the AR components will just pop out.
Discard the AR components and glue the plunger cap back on with 2-part epoxy glue.
Alternatively, the AR can also be drilled out with a motorized drill or dremel. Just make sure the plunger and seals are not damaged in the process.
Left Photo: Cap Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Cap After AR Removal.
Left Photo: Tube Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Tube After AR Removal.
Note that the white colored "target" shaped plastic grill has to be intact, that part is required as an impact barrier for the plunger rod.
The AR removal mod is done!
:: Plunger Air Release Seal ::
Close up the air relief hole on the side of the plunger tube. This is essential to create an air-tight plunger seal.
Top Photo: Open / Bottom Photo: Closed.
In my example, i use 2-part epoxy glue to fill in the air relief hole.
:: Plunger Padding ::
Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on tube impact.
This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger and tube casing, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impacts on the tube (hence the loud cracking sound during firing) over time, the plunger and tube may become damaged.
Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.
In the following photo, i attached a 20mm diameter soft bumper padding to the tip of the plunger.
The 20mm diameter soft bumper pads i used in the above example are from a brand called "Volkmar-Fix", they can be found at most common hardware shops.
:: O-Ring Replacement ::
To test the plunger air seal, block the tube exit and try to push the plunger rod into the plunger casing, if the air seal is optimized, there should be some resistance in the plunger. It should still be able to move smoothly when the tube exit is not blocked.
If the plunger seal is loose, simply replace the stock o-ring with a more air-tight aftermarket o-ring.
From my experience, the plungers in different Swarmfire units can differ slightly in diameter, therefore you may have to test various o-rings to find the ideal ones that fit properly for an air-tight seal.
Photo Left: Stock O-Ring / Photo Right: Aftermarket O-Ring
:: Voltage Increase ::
The voltage feed to the Swarmfire's motor determines its speed.
To increase the Swarmfire's Rate of Fire (RoF), simply increase the amount of voltage to its motor.
There are many different types of batteries available to create higher voltage power sources, its up to the users to determine which setups suit their usage best.
In my examples, i choose to use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) for my modded Swarmfires.
Such batteries can be installed in the original Swarmfire battery sled without additional modification, simply use AA to C-battery converters.
14500 size 3.7V TrustFire unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries can be charged up to 4.2V each, so i use 4 of them in C-battery converters (with an additional 2 dummy spacers) to get around 16.8V of power.
:: Aftermarket Spring Replacement ::
One way to increase the speed of air delivery through the plunger tube is to replace the stock spring with a stronger aftermarket spring.
Photo Top: Stock Spring / Photo Bottom: 10kg load Spring
Note that due to the thicker spring wire of stronger aftermarket springs, the plunger rod's 4 plastic strut "fins" at the front will need to be trimmed abit narrower so that the spring can fit over the rod properly (or else the spring will end up sitting too far back).
For an optimal balance of RoF, range and reliability, i currently use 10kg load aftermarket springs with 16.8V power on my modded Swarmfires.
Note that i use TrustFire 14500 unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries. These unprotected Li-Ion batteries have high discharge rates which are necessary to provide the required torque to the motor to handle heavier spring loads.
Be advised that regular Alkaline batteries may not have high enough discharge rates (separate factor from voltage) to enable the motor to pull such heavier spring loads.
:: Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal (Optional) ::
This mod is optional, it is mainly for users who want to be able to use solid core DIY foam darts (ie. stefans) or as a modding step before re-barrel mods.
Detach the rotating barrel from the casing.
Use a dremel with a drill or cutting bit to remove the dart posts.
This mod is optional, it is mainly for users who want to be able to use solid core DIY foam darts (ie. stefans) or as a modding step before re-barrel mods.
Detach the rotating barrel from the casing.
Use a dremel with a drill or cutting bit to remove the dart posts.
:: Modified Nerf Swarmfire - Test Fire & Range Testing Video ::
:: Sample Test Fire Data ::
PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)
Distance is measured at where the shot lands (Average of 20 shots).
Stock Swarmfire
PTG = 20 ft
ATG = 30 ft
Modded Swarmfire (AR Removal & 10kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 60 ft
ATG = 75 ft
Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with Nerf Tagger foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).
Great mod, those ranges are impressive considering the PT in this is smaller than a nightfinder, but then again you don't put 10kg springs in a nightfinder, and nightfinders don't use the whole PT anyways. I have 2 questions, do you think that the gears may break from all the stress that 10 kg spring puts on them? Also, are you planning to brass the barrels or use some other barrel material eventually because that could increase the range even more.
ReplyDeleteaj,
ReplyDeleteWell, i've actually tested it with successively heavier springs and found that with a 15kg load spring, one of my modded Swarmfires ended up with broken gear teeth.
I'm not sure if that breakage was due to the spring load or a weakened gear, but i guess such heavier springs probably cause too much stress on the stock internal components.
So far, i've found that 10kg load springs offer the best balance of firing rate, power and reliability. I've recorded close to 500+ test shots with my modded Swarmfires (with 10kg load springs) and all the internal parts are still okay.
As for re-barrel mods, thats the next step in my modding process. I'll be posting updates on it soon.
Hi SGnerf, thanks for all your informative posts. I was wondering where could one find the 4500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions, c-battery converters and the dummies to use in such mods? I've attempted some DIY stores around the east but haven't been able to locate them.
ReplyDeleteAnd, I've read somewhere that the swarmfire can fit a nitefinder spring, I've got a busted modded nitefinder would the aftermarket spring from that gun fit in this one?
Thanks again!
Can the 9kg load spring you used as a part of the Stampede Upgrade Kit be used in the Swarmfire? If so, I might actually get a Swarmfire.
ReplyDeleteShansation,
ReplyDeleteFor information on the batteries and equipment (and where to get them), refer to this discussion thread at the NerfSG forum:
http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864.html
As for the Nite Finder stock spring, its width is similiar but length is abit longer. It can still be retro-fitted in the Swarmfire plunger, though because its still a stock spring, the performance improvements may not be as significant.
CJ,
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately, the 9kg load aftermarket spring for the Stampede is too wide and too long to fit into the Swarmfire plunger tube properly, so it cannot be used.
If you are keen on the 10kg load aftermarket springs that i use for my modded Swarmfire units, i now have them available in my sales thread at the NerfSG forum trading section:
http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/swarmfire-stampede-mod-upgrade-kit-t999.html#p11165
I was looking for some alternative batteries that I could pick up from local stores in the US, so I went ahead and measured the current draw for the Swarmfire and figured this might come in handy for anyone else trying to select batteries as well:
ReplyDelete1.3 A continuous
1.6 A peak (may be higher; occurs when trigger first depressed)
Is there any current draw data for the 10kg spring?
The Mad Engineer,
ReplyDeleteYour current draw measurement data for the Swarmfire operating in stock mode are in line with what i've tested too (around 1.3A - 1.6A).
For the 10kg load aftermarket spring with unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries, i measured the current draw at around 2.3A-2.5A (constant draw) and around 2.8-3.0A (at peak draw).
Protected batteries or conventional alkaline batteries with limited discharge rates usually can't supply enough current to the motor to pull such heavier spring loads.
I posted up similar findings a while back for modded Stampedes too:
http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864-60.html#p23644
are the anti-slip pads rubber or felt or something?
ReplyDeleteoh i just saw the label and it said rubber. could you use the felt ones though?
ReplyDeleteahgpwns,
ReplyDeleteThe Volkmar-Fix brand padding i use are made of very soft foam-like rubber compound, they can be compressed flat quite easily so offer very good impact absorption.
Felt pads can also be used, but just make sure there are sufficient layers to absorb the impacts and yet not too thick that it interferes with the plunger movement.
Would plugging the air hole alone do much good for this blaster? It does, how much extra range will the gun get? I intend to keep my swarmfire mostly stock though
ReplyDeleteRyan =],
ReplyDeleteWell, when the AR is still intact, the air relief hole is actually required to offset the air vacuum that forms when the plunger is drawn back. If you plug or block it while the AR is still intact, it will create extra resistance in the plunger operation.
So if you are not removing the AR, don't plug or block the air relief hole.
Just sayin': At the top of the barrel is a screw, unscrew it, and u have ur pegs, ok, no AR but, for the time you put in it, nice mod for letting it shoot streamlines!
ReplyDeleteNerfHyvesNederland,
ReplyDeleteYes, the turret and barrel assembly can be separated by unscrewing the large screw inside it's rotating mechanism.
Note that the plastic dart post pegs are molded as part of the turret assembly (not separate pieces), so they all still need to be cut or drilled out individually.
NerfHyvesNederland,
ReplyDeleteYes, the turret and barrel assembly can be separated by unscrewing the large screw inside it's rotating mechanism.
Note that the plastic dart post pegs are molded as part of the turret assembly though (not separate pieces), so they all still need to be cut or drilled out individually.
What is the heaviest aftermarket spring that can be used without modifying the voltage?
ReplyDeletebraveboy510,
ReplyDeleteIt depends on the kind of batteries used (not just voltage).
But if normal off-the-shelf alkaline batteries are used, from my experience, the motor tends to stall once any aftermarket spring with 9kg load or more is installed.
Note that even if the alkaline batteries are able to power the lower strength aftermarket springs, the RoF will be correspondingly slower.
to take the air restricter out do I press tin the front or back?
ReplyDeletewas gone,
ReplyDeletePry open the front of the plunger tube.
at the bace of the top?
ReplyDeleteif you leve the air relief holeopen could I not put padding on the plunger?
ReplyDeletewas gone,
ReplyDeleteLook at the photos in the guide to see where the plunger cap is.
If you remove the AR, you must pad the plunger or else the repeated direct impacts will damage it.
Not covering the air release hole actually reduces the cushioning effect when firing with foam darts, so its actually worse. You should cover it to create a better overall air seal.
SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteWhat are the specifications on the after-market spring you put in, as far as:
1.) free/rest length
2.) coils per unit length (inches or cm)
3.) outside diameter
4.) compressed length within the blaster
Storm,
ReplyDeleteThe aftermarket springs i use are based on the same dimensions as the stock spring, just with thicker spring wires.
Just measure the stock springs and follow those dimensions to custom make your own springs.
SG,
ReplyDeleteCan the Swarmfire handle 20 volts?
RAMBONERF,
ReplyDeleteIt can run on 20 Volts too, the RoF will be even faster... but note that with higher voltages, the motor would tend to overheat and wear out faster too. :)
So we were only able to find 11kg springs at our local hardware store. Do you think those would be a problem for the plastic or do you think they would be fine. Love the site btw.
ReplyDeleteknighter6,
ReplyDeleteThey should still be useable, just make sure the plunger is properly padded to reduce the increased impact forces.
Note that there will still be higher wear and tear on the internal parts when heavier spring loads are used, so mod at your own risk. :)
Hi SgNerf,
ReplyDeleteI want to remove the poles on my swarmfire, not the ar on the poles so that the gun accept any kind of ammo. Is there any way to do that without taking the gun a part?
Kyle Morelli,
DeleteI guess you could just try pulling out the dart posts with a pair of needle nose pliers... not as clean though 'cos there might probably still be remnants of the posts still remaining inside the barrels.
is this mod difficult or risky?
ReplyDeleteLanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteI'd consider it moderate in terms of modding difficulty level... but those with some prior experience modding blasters should be able to handle it.
Risk is basically like in any other blaster mods, there will be more stress and impacts on the parts, hence higher wear and tear.
is it hard to put together?
ReplyDeleteive done recon mods w/ ease
ive done some coupling
how hard is the swarmfire compared to these?
Lanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteIf you have already done those kind of mods, then the Swarmfire should be quite easy for you to mod.
I took out the AR, padded plunger, reinforced seal, plugged air release hole, but the range went DOWN....is there an explanation for this?
ReplyDeleteLanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteCheck that the seal between the turret and the plunger tube has no gaps, air could be leaking out from that section.
Also check that your plunger o-ring seal is not too tight or else it might slow down the plunger movement and reduce the power, it still has to be able to move smoothly.
Lastly, re-check everything to make sure they are working properly too.
Sg,
ReplyDeletethe turret/plunger seal seems pretty good
the o ring is not tight
what do you think is not working properly?
Lanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteHmmm... if you mention the seals are okay, then i've no other idea why the range would be less.
Maybe try checking if your o-ring seal is not too loose? Could have somehow changed after you modded? Imho, i'm just making wild guesses here... you have to troubleshoot each part to find out the issue.
Another alternative is to physically compare it with other modded Swarmfire units to see if there is any difference between those units and your unit.
Hey SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteJust wondering, do you by any chance know what the material is on the outside of the PT tube, (the stuff that creates the seal between the PT and the rotating drum). I was thinking of purchasing some, and then taking it off the PT,and then cover the entire drum with the material to eliminate the air loss caused by the PT's two holes. Thanks for the help,
Usopp/Boom
Boom,
DeleteThat seal piece is basically like dense craft foam material, you can get similar material from arts n' crafts or hardware stores.