Mods covered:
- Air Restrictor (AR) Removal
- Plunger Air Release Seal
- Plunger Padding
- O-Ring Replacement
- Voltage Increase
- Aftermarket Spring Replacement
- Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal (Optional)
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
:: AR Removal ::
Step 1: Disassemble your Swarmfire. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing layers.
Step 2: Open the motorized spring plunger casing. Move aside the cover, rotating barrel and battery sled.
Step 3: Separate all the spring plunger parts and gear components.
Step 4: Take the plunger tube and simply use flat-head precision screwdrivers to pry open the plunger cap... the AR components will just pop out.
Discard the AR components and glue the plunger cap back on with 2-part epoxy glue.
Alternatively, the AR can also be drilled out with a motorized drill or dremel. Just make sure the plunger and seals are not damaged in the process.
Left Photo: Cap Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Cap After AR Removal.
Left Photo: Tube Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Tube After AR Removal.
Note that the white colored "target" shaped plastic grill has to be intact, that part is required as an impact barrier for the plunger rod.
The AR removal mod is done!
:: Plunger Air Release Seal ::
Close up the air relief hole on the side of the plunger tube. This is essential to create an air-tight plunger seal.
Top Photo: Open / Bottom Photo: Closed.
In my example, i use 2-part epoxy glue to fill in the air relief hole.
:: Plunger Padding ::
Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on tube impact.
This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger and tube casing, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impacts on the tube (hence the loud cracking sound during firing) over time, the plunger and tube may become damaged.
Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.
In the following photo, i attached a 20mm diameter soft bumper padding to the tip of the plunger.
The 20mm diameter soft bumper pads i used in the above example are from a brand called "Volkmar-Fix", they can be found at most common hardware shops.
:: O-Ring Replacement ::
To test the plunger air seal, block the tube exit and try to push the plunger rod into the plunger casing, if the air seal is optimized, there should be some resistance in the plunger. It should still be able to move smoothly when the tube exit is not blocked.
If the plunger seal is loose, simply replace the stock o-ring with a more air-tight aftermarket o-ring.
From my experience, the plungers in different Swarmfire units can differ slightly in diameter, therefore you may have to test various o-rings to find the ideal ones that fit properly for an air-tight seal.
Photo Left: Stock O-Ring / Photo Right: Aftermarket O-Ring
:: Voltage Increase ::
The voltage feed to the Swarmfire's motor determines its speed.
To increase the Swarmfire's Rate of Fire (RoF), simply increase the amount of voltage to its motor.
Step 1: Disassemble your Swarmfire. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing layers.
Step 2: Open the motorized spring plunger casing. Move aside the cover, rotating barrel and battery sled.
Step 3: Separate all the spring plunger parts and gear components.
Step 4: Take the plunger tube and simply use flat-head precision screwdrivers to pry open the plunger cap... the AR components will just pop out.
Discard the AR components and glue the plunger cap back on with 2-part epoxy glue.
Alternatively, the AR can also be drilled out with a motorized drill or dremel. Just make sure the plunger and seals are not damaged in the process.
Left Photo: Cap Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Cap After AR Removal.
Left Photo: Tube Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Tube After AR Removal.
Note that the white colored "target" shaped plastic grill has to be intact, that part is required as an impact barrier for the plunger rod.
The AR removal mod is done!
:: Plunger Air Release Seal ::
Close up the air relief hole on the side of the plunger tube. This is essential to create an air-tight plunger seal.
Top Photo: Open / Bottom Photo: Closed.
In my example, i use 2-part epoxy glue to fill in the air relief hole.
:: Plunger Padding ::
Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on tube impact.
This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger and tube casing, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impacts on the tube (hence the loud cracking sound during firing) over time, the plunger and tube may become damaged.
Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.
In the following photo, i attached a 20mm diameter soft bumper padding to the tip of the plunger.
The 20mm diameter soft bumper pads i used in the above example are from a brand called "Volkmar-Fix", they can be found at most common hardware shops.
:: O-Ring Replacement ::
To test the plunger air seal, block the tube exit and try to push the plunger rod into the plunger casing, if the air seal is optimized, there should be some resistance in the plunger. It should still be able to move smoothly when the tube exit is not blocked.
If the plunger seal is loose, simply replace the stock o-ring with a more air-tight aftermarket o-ring.
From my experience, the plungers in different Swarmfire units can differ slightly in diameter, therefore you may have to test various o-rings to find the ideal ones that fit properly for an air-tight seal.
Photo Left: Stock O-Ring / Photo Right: Aftermarket O-Ring
:: Voltage Increase ::
The voltage feed to the Swarmfire's motor determines its speed.
To increase the Swarmfire's Rate of Fire (RoF), simply increase the amount of voltage to its motor.
There are many different types of batteries available to create higher voltage power sources, its up to the users to determine which setups suit their usage best.
In my examples, i choose to use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) for my modded Swarmfires.
Such batteries can be installed in the original Swarmfire battery sled without additional modification, simply use AA to C-battery converters.
14500 size 3.7V TrustFire unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries can be charged up to 4.2V each, so i use 4 of them in C-battery converters (with an additional 2 dummy spacers) to get around 16.8V of power.
:: Aftermarket Spring Replacement ::
One way to increase the speed of air delivery through the plunger tube is to replace the stock spring with a stronger aftermarket spring.
Photo Top: Stock Spring / Photo Bottom: 10kg load Spring
Note that due to the thicker spring wire of stronger aftermarket springs, the plunger rod's 4 plastic strut "fins" at the front will need to be trimmed abit narrower so that the spring can fit over the rod properly (or else the spring will end up sitting too far back).
For an optimal balance of RoF, range and reliability, i currently use 10kg load aftermarket springs with 16.8V power on my modded Swarmfires.
Note that i use TrustFire 14500 unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries. These unprotected Li-Ion batteries have high discharge rates which are necessary to provide the required torque to the motor to handle heavier spring loads.
Be advised that regular Alkaline batteries may not have high enough discharge rates (separate factor from voltage) to enable the motor to pull such heavier spring loads.
:: Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal (Optional) ::
This mod is optional, it is mainly for users who want to be able to use solid core DIY foam darts (ie. stefans) or as a modding step before re-barrel mods.
Detach the rotating barrel from the casing.
Use a dremel with a drill or cutting bit to remove the dart posts.
:: Modified Nerf Swarmfire - Test Fire & Range Testing Video ::
:: Sample Test Fire Data ::
PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)
Distance is measured at where the shot lands (Average of 20 shots).
Stock Swarmfire
PTG = 20 ft
ATG = 30 ft
Modded Swarmfire (AR Removal & 10kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 60 ft
ATG = 75 ft
Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with Nerf Tagger foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).
Great mod, those ranges are impressive considering the PT in this is smaller than a nightfinder, but then again you don't put 10kg springs in a nightfinder, and nightfinders don't use the whole PT anyways. I have 2 questions, do you think that the gears may break from all the stress that 10 kg spring puts on them? Also, are you planning to brass the barrels or use some other barrel material eventually because that could increase the range even more.
ReplyDeleteaj,
ReplyDeleteWell, i've actually tested it with successively heavier springs and found that with a 15kg load spring, one of my modded Swarmfires ended up with broken gear teeth.
I'm not sure if that breakage was due to the spring load or a weakened gear, but i guess such heavier springs probably cause too much stress on the stock internal components.
So far, i've found that 10kg load springs offer the best balance of firing rate, power and reliability. I've recorded close to 500+ test shots with my modded Swarmfires (with 10kg load springs) and all the internal parts are still okay.
As for re-barrel mods, thats the next step in my modding process. I'll be posting updates on it soon.
Hi SGnerf, thanks for all your informative posts. I was wondering where could one find the 4500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions, c-battery converters and the dummies to use in such mods? I've attempted some DIY stores around the east but haven't been able to locate them.
ReplyDeleteAnd, I've read somewhere that the swarmfire can fit a nitefinder spring, I've got a busted modded nitefinder would the aftermarket spring from that gun fit in this one?
Thanks again!
Can the 9kg load spring you used as a part of the Stampede Upgrade Kit be used in the Swarmfire? If so, I might actually get a Swarmfire.
ReplyDeleteShansation,
ReplyDeleteFor information on the batteries and equipment (and where to get them), refer to this discussion thread at the NerfSG forum:
http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864.html
As for the Nite Finder stock spring, its width is similiar but length is abit longer. It can still be retro-fitted in the Swarmfire plunger, though because its still a stock spring, the performance improvements may not be as significant.
CJ,
ReplyDeleteUnfortunately, the 9kg load aftermarket spring for the Stampede is too wide and too long to fit into the Swarmfire plunger tube properly, so it cannot be used.
If you are keen on the 10kg load aftermarket springs that i use for my modded Swarmfire units, i now have them available in my sales thread at the NerfSG forum trading section:
http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/swarmfire-stampede-mod-upgrade-kit-t999.html#p11165
I was looking for some alternative batteries that I could pick up from local stores in the US, so I went ahead and measured the current draw for the Swarmfire and figured this might come in handy for anyone else trying to select batteries as well:
ReplyDelete1.3 A continuous
1.6 A peak (may be higher; occurs when trigger first depressed)
Is there any current draw data for the 10kg spring?
The Mad Engineer,
ReplyDeleteYour current draw measurement data for the Swarmfire operating in stock mode are in line with what i've tested too (around 1.3A - 1.6A).
For the 10kg load aftermarket spring with unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries, i measured the current draw at around 2.3A-2.5A (constant draw) and around 2.8-3.0A (at peak draw).
Protected batteries or conventional alkaline batteries with limited discharge rates usually can't supply enough current to the motor to pull such heavier spring loads.
I posted up similar findings a while back for modded Stampedes too:
http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864-60.html#p23644
are the anti-slip pads rubber or felt or something?
ReplyDeleteoh i just saw the label and it said rubber. could you use the felt ones though?
ReplyDeleteahgpwns,
ReplyDeleteThe Volkmar-Fix brand padding i use are made of very soft foam-like rubber compound, they can be compressed flat quite easily so offer very good impact absorption.
Felt pads can also be used, but just make sure there are sufficient layers to absorb the impacts and yet not too thick that it interferes with the plunger movement.
Would plugging the air hole alone do much good for this blaster? It does, how much extra range will the gun get? I intend to keep my swarmfire mostly stock though
ReplyDeleteRyan =],
ReplyDeleteWell, when the AR is still intact, the air relief hole is actually required to offset the air vacuum that forms when the plunger is drawn back. If you plug or block it while the AR is still intact, it will create extra resistance in the plunger operation.
So if you are not removing the AR, don't plug or block the air relief hole.
Just sayin': At the top of the barrel is a screw, unscrew it, and u have ur pegs, ok, no AR but, for the time you put in it, nice mod for letting it shoot streamlines!
ReplyDeleteNerfHyvesNederland,
ReplyDeleteYes, the turret and barrel assembly can be separated by unscrewing the large screw inside it's rotating mechanism.
Note that the plastic dart post pegs are molded as part of the turret assembly (not separate pieces), so they all still need to be cut or drilled out individually.
NerfHyvesNederland,
ReplyDeleteYes, the turret and barrel assembly can be separated by unscrewing the large screw inside it's rotating mechanism.
Note that the plastic dart post pegs are molded as part of the turret assembly though (not separate pieces), so they all still need to be cut or drilled out individually.
What is the heaviest aftermarket spring that can be used without modifying the voltage?
ReplyDeletebraveboy510,
ReplyDeleteIt depends on the kind of batteries used (not just voltage).
But if normal off-the-shelf alkaline batteries are used, from my experience, the motor tends to stall once any aftermarket spring with 9kg load or more is installed.
Note that even if the alkaline batteries are able to power the lower strength aftermarket springs, the RoF will be correspondingly slower.
to take the air restricter out do I press tin the front or back?
ReplyDeletewas gone,
ReplyDeletePry open the front of the plunger tube.
at the bace of the top?
ReplyDeleteif you leve the air relief holeopen could I not put padding on the plunger?
ReplyDeletewas gone,
ReplyDeleteLook at the photos in the guide to see where the plunger cap is.
If you remove the AR, you must pad the plunger or else the repeated direct impacts will damage it.
Not covering the air release hole actually reduces the cushioning effect when firing with foam darts, so its actually worse. You should cover it to create a better overall air seal.
SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteWhat are the specifications on the after-market spring you put in, as far as:
1.) free/rest length
2.) coils per unit length (inches or cm)
3.) outside diameter
4.) compressed length within the blaster
Storm,
ReplyDeleteThe aftermarket springs i use are based on the same dimensions as the stock spring, just with thicker spring wires.
Just measure the stock springs and follow those dimensions to custom make your own springs.
SG,
ReplyDeleteCan the Swarmfire handle 20 volts?
RAMBONERF,
ReplyDeleteIt can run on 20 Volts too, the RoF will be even faster... but note that with higher voltages, the motor would tend to overheat and wear out faster too. :)
So we were only able to find 11kg springs at our local hardware store. Do you think those would be a problem for the plastic or do you think they would be fine. Love the site btw.
ReplyDeleteknighter6,
ReplyDeleteThey should still be useable, just make sure the plunger is properly padded to reduce the increased impact forces.
Note that there will still be higher wear and tear on the internal parts when heavier spring loads are used, so mod at your own risk. :)
Hi SgNerf,
ReplyDeleteI want to remove the poles on my swarmfire, not the ar on the poles so that the gun accept any kind of ammo. Is there any way to do that without taking the gun a part?
Kyle Morelli,
DeleteI guess you could just try pulling out the dart posts with a pair of needle nose pliers... not as clean though 'cos there might probably still be remnants of the posts still remaining inside the barrels.
is this mod difficult or risky?
ReplyDeleteLanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteI'd consider it moderate in terms of modding difficulty level... but those with some prior experience modding blasters should be able to handle it.
Risk is basically like in any other blaster mods, there will be more stress and impacts on the parts, hence higher wear and tear.
is it hard to put together?
ReplyDeleteive done recon mods w/ ease
ive done some coupling
how hard is the swarmfire compared to these?
Lanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteIf you have already done those kind of mods, then the Swarmfire should be quite easy for you to mod.
I took out the AR, padded plunger, reinforced seal, plugged air release hole, but the range went DOWN....is there an explanation for this?
ReplyDeleteLanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteCheck that the seal between the turret and the plunger tube has no gaps, air could be leaking out from that section.
Also check that your plunger o-ring seal is not too tight or else it might slow down the plunger movement and reduce the power, it still has to be able to move smoothly.
Lastly, re-check everything to make sure they are working properly too.
Sg,
ReplyDeletethe turret/plunger seal seems pretty good
the o ring is not tight
what do you think is not working properly?
Lanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteHmmm... if you mention the seals are okay, then i've no other idea why the range would be less.
Maybe try checking if your o-ring seal is not too loose? Could have somehow changed after you modded? Imho, i'm just making wild guesses here... you have to troubleshoot each part to find out the issue.
Another alternative is to physically compare it with other modded Swarmfire units to see if there is any difference between those units and your unit.
Hey SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteJust wondering, do you by any chance know what the material is on the outside of the PT tube, (the stuff that creates the seal between the PT and the rotating drum). I was thinking of purchasing some, and then taking it off the PT,and then cover the entire drum with the material to eliminate the air loss caused by the PT's two holes. Thanks for the help,
Usopp/Boom
Boom,
DeleteThat seal piece is basically like dense craft foam material, you can get similar material from arts n' crafts or hardware stores.
Sgnerf, my swarmfire isn't working at all now. The parts are aligned correctly, the polarities are correct....do you know what happened? It doesn't have anything to do w/ the batteries.
ReplyDeleteLanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteDouble-check that the batteries are sitting securely in the battery compartment and all of them are in contact with each other.
Check that the internal circuit wiring is not damaged or broken.
Change the batteries and try, if it still can't even start, then maybe your unit's motor is somehow burnt out. Either find a replacement motor or just get a new unit.
1. yes, they are.
ReplyDelete2. How can I tell?
3. I don't think so, as I only used 9 volts of power.
Lanh, Duc, Joey & Sydney Nguyen-Khoa,
DeleteThe best way to check internal wiring (and battery connection) is to use a voltage multimeter to test the various wires and connections... its tough to troubleshoot just by looking at the wiring.
Note that it is possible for components to fail or burn out even with normal voltage feeds and usage, the circuit or motor could just simply be faulty.
Where can i get good quality aa to c battery converters?
ReplyDeleteKyle Morelli,
DeleteJust check at electronics parts supply stores, they are basically just plastic shells that fit AA batteries inside.
Hello. What batteries would you reccomend?
ReplyDeleteI don't mind the price, r wether it's rechargeabble or not. I'm looking for good voltage, and maybe long lasting.
Joseph,
DeleteAs shown in my mod guide, i'd recommend the 14500-size TrustFire Li-Ion rechargeable batteries (unprotected versions), most modders use them nowadays 'cos they are light-weight, space saving, cost effective and able to provide the amp current required for motors to pull heavier spring loads.
Here are the product links at DealExtreme.com website where i order my batteries and chargers from (free shipping worldwide):
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-14500-3-7v-900mah-rechargeable-lithium-batteries-2-pack-19771?r=30088751
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/trustfire-tr-001-multi-purpose-lithium-battery-charger-12594?r=30088751
Thank you. But what I meant was, the type of batteries you van get in stores eg everedy. Also, Lithium is too expensive.
DeleteSorry.
Joseph,
DeleteOic... in that case, i guess you could just go for any of the well-known conventional alkaline battery brands like Duracell, Energizer, Panasonic etc. Usually the more expensive the batteries are, the longer they should last. :)
Note that conventional alkaline batteries may not have high enough amp current discharge rate (separate factor from voltage) to pull heavier load springs in modded blasters... but if you are planning to still use the stock spring, then its not an issue.
Imho, its still overall more cost effective to use Li-Ion rechargeable batteries though (if you can get them). :)
Tahnks a ton.
Delete1) If you had to guess want kind of range would I get with just an air release seal and AR removal? (stock o-ring and spring)
ReplyDelete2) If I were to get an 8kg spring what kind of batteries would you suggest if I wanted to keep the same (or slightly higher) rate of fire as stock?
3) Do normal dead C's work as dummy spacers? How about AA to C converters filled with aluminum foil?
Thanks for your time and guide!
Dan,
DeleteWith just AR removal, you should see around 10-15ft improvement over stock ranges.
If you use a 8kg load spring, it would be recommended to use at least 3 x TrustFire unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries... at their full charge of 4.2V each, the system will be running it at 12.6V, which should still get similar rate of fire as when stock (maybe slightly faster).
Do not use drained batteries as dummy spacers, they are still batteries and the voltage/current imbalance may cause damage to the other batteries and the circuit.
I've not tested AA to C converter shells filled with aluminum foil before (not sure how well that works). I'd still recommend just installing wiring in between to create proper bypass dummy batteries for the circuit.
Do you know how much longer or shorter these batteries last in comparison to normal c's? Assuming same usage. (I just want to know if i'm going to have to swap out these batteries every 2 hours because of the higher voltage output.
DeleteThanks, Dan
Dan,
DeleteThe 14500-size TrustFire batteries are smaller so their mAh capacity is naturally less... but so far, i've been able to fire around 40+ full 20-shot turrets worth of shots before the voltage drops to a level that the motor slows down noticeably (which is when it's time to recharge them). That's around 800+ worth of shots, so its more than enough to last through many Nerf games.
C-size alkaline batteries have much higher mAh capacity, so they can last even longer... but they are larger and heavier, and have much lower voltage (so the RoF is slower) and not rechargeable too.
Alright, thanks for the info!
ReplyDeleteDo you think there will be any difference in whether I did this modification of a blue trigger (new) or orange trigger (old) swarmfire?
ReplyDeleteI feel like investing in the blue trigger would be worth it if it meant the internals could take more of a beating due to better plastic. But if "stronger internals" just means that they put in a better spring then maybe i'll just get the old version used. (Also do you know the strength of the new spring? I've been told the orange trigger was a 3kg spring)
Thanks!
Kat,
DeleteFrom what i've tested, the main difference is the blue trigger version has a slightly stronger stock spring, so if you do an AR removal mod on it, the ranges will be slightly better, maybe 5-10ft more than in a orange trigger version.
Though if you were to install a stronger aftermarket spring, then both version will get the same modded ranges, as the spring load is "equalized". :)
So just to confirm there's no real difference other than the spring and the color of the trigger? When they made the swarmfire 2.0 they used the same quality/thickness of plastic with the same motor? (As far as you can tell)
DeleteKat,
DeleteSo far, i didn't spot any difference in the plastic or motor... just a slightly stronger spring.
Great job and write-up, SG Nerf! Thank you.
ReplyDeleteQuestion: How much louder is the firing mechanism with the AR removed and the padded plunger? We have office wars and I'd like to keep the sound level as near stock/oem/original as possible.
M-Pire,
DeleteWell, with the AR removed the sound of the plunger impacts will be loud (especially indoors).
Plunger padding doesn't reduce the impact sound much (perhaps just abit), its mainly to help cushion the impact and reduce the chances of breakage... but the impact sound will still be there.
If you prefer to keep the impact sounds at near stock levels, then just keep the ARs intact, the performance will be reduced but at least it'll not be too loud during firing operation.
Many thanks; you saved me some money and disappointment!
DeleteAll your advice on the voltage increase really paid off!
What happens if I replace the batteries for high performing ones leaving the stock spring?
ReplyDeleteCan you ship internationaly?
Josè Pablo,
DeleteThe rate-of-fire will just be faster, but ranges will still be based on stock spring performance.
Yes, i can ship the aftermarket springs internationally. Just click on the PayPal "Add to Cart" button, the shipping cost will be added in the order page. :)
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI'm planning to use a 11.1V 2200mAh Li-Po battery as the power supply. Is it ok to use this battery? Or it doesn't matter?
Anonymous,
DeleteYes, that type of power source can work with the Swarmfire too.
I ordered this mode but only got the spring. After following the directions the spring appears to be to strong for the motor:( I guess I'll have to find something else since the original spring will no longer work either due to the mods.
ReplyDeleteStarkey,
DeleteAs mentioned in my Mod Guide:
"Note that i use TrustFire 14500 unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries. These unprotected Li-Ion batteries have high discharge rates which are necessary to provide the required torque to the motor to handle heavier spring loads.
Be advised that regular Alkaline batteries may not have high enough discharge rates (separate factor from voltage) to enable the motor to pull such heavier spring loads."
You need to use high discharge rate battery sources or else the motor will stall with the stronger aftermarket spring.
Can we use the heat sink for the motor? So even we use high voltage batteries the motor don't heat up.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteIt's possible... heat sinks could help in cooling and reduce the chances of overheating, do try it out and see if it works well. :)
Have you tried to use heat sink in your Stampede?
DeleteAnonymous,
DeleteI've not tried that yet, 'cos heat isn't that much of an issue for my modded blasters.
With my level of modded voltages and spring loads, the motor doesn't overheat noticeably as i don't fire in full-auto continuously all the time (ie. firing many clips non-stop). Most of the time i fire in short 3-4 shot bursts, and that gameplay style allows the motor to cool between shots... it also helps conserve precious ammo during extended Nerf games too. :)
If I use a heavier spring (say 8 kg) do I also have to remove the AR to see improvement. I trying to keep it stock sounding (steath modded). How much improvement would a 8 kg spring and no AR removal give me VS 8 kg spring and AR removal?
ReplyDeleteThanks
Anonymous,
DeleteIf you still keep the AR intact the air flow will still be restricted, therefore when a stronger spring is installed you'd be looking at around 20-30% less range improvement compared to if the AR were to be removed... so its a performance trade-off that you'll have to consider.
Thanks for the reply. Seems like it would still improve some then.
DeleteCould you also use the 4AA Battery Holder you used in the Stampede mod guide in this gun? Since many people ask about Dummy Batteries, you should make a tutorial on how you do them.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteYes, you can also link up a 4AA battery holder (or any other size battery holder) to it, just connect the wiring to the respective circuit contact points.
As for my DIY dummy batteries, i just wedge a thick piece of copper wire inside an empty AAA to AA battery converter shell, a short how-to guide was posted at the NerfSG forum:
http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864.html
You'll need a forum account to access the guide though... if you can't access it, here is a photo to describe the process:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ynWOAg4YQB0/TJc0ZW2ZcwI/AAAAAAAACF0/dqonJ1ydUug/DIY%20Dummy%20AA%20Battery%20-%2004.JPG
Do you still sell the upgrade kit? If yes, how long before I receive it in Montreal,Qc,Canada?
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteYes, i still have spare sets available. From experience, it usually takes on average 7-10 working days to reach postal addresses in Canada.
Hi SG Nerf ! Sorry to disturb you, but do you still sell those upgrade kits ? And how much would be shipping to France ?
ReplyDeleteThank you very much !
Hebi
Hebi,
DeleteYes, i still do have spare Swarmfire Mod Upgrade Kits available, just click on the PayPal button at the bottom of my guide and place your order.
International postage and packaging is set at a flat USD$5.00, so it'll make sense to order more kits at once as the shipping cost will still be the same. :)
Hi , I am only looking for a battery replacement as with your kit i believe i am no longer to shoot on eachother . Can i still use the 15V battery that you described? Or is this to much because i am not using the 9kg spring. Thanks
ReplyDeleteRonald Schreur,
DeleteYes, you can still use higher voltage batteries with the stock spring... your blaster will achieve much higher rate-of-fire, depending on the amount of voltage you are using :)
Thanks for your quick reply! I just wanted to make sure i don't get stuck on the jamming problem that I have heard off on the forrum. So i am going to order these:
ReplyDeletethese are the batteries:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... _Pack.html
also require a battery charger and 15v power supply for the charger:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... rger_.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... 0v_5A.html
you'll also have to get female plug leads:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... _bag_.html
and you'll have to solder them. black wire goes to the spring, red wire goes to the button, in the battery holder
it's a little more expensive, but lighter, and simpler and less worrying than unprotected lithium-based cells
Thanks aggain!
SG Nerf where can i buy the replacement springs from ??
ReplyDeletePLEEEASE HELP ME!!!
Lez Hunt,
DeleteI've sold out my stock of aftermarket springs... but you can check with Black-Tactical shop at Funan IT Mall in Singapore, they may still have stock of them.
Hi SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteCould you give your suggestion for which spring to get from Black-Tactical? (http://black-tactical.com/store/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=0&keyword=nerf)
Thanks!
Mindblender,
DeleteIt seems from their latest online product listings that their Swarmfire aftermarket spring is no longer in stock... i guess you'll just have to check directly with them to find out when they will be re-stocking it.