With the Nerf Longshot being such a popular blaster for aftermarket spring mods, its common to encounter their stock bolt sleds cracking or breaking under the heavier load after prolonged usage. Thats when a stronger bolt sled would be needed.
Check out the Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled!
It is made from a customized resin material and the L-joint arms section of the bolt sled have been re-worked with a thicker profile to withstand the stress effects of heavier spring loads.
Along with its non-metal construction, it is very light-weight and all the parts edges are smoothly molded to exacting detail. This allows the bolt sled to fit perfectly into Longshot casings without requiring any further trimming or adjustments.
The boltsled was tested with 14kg load aftermarket springs and it showed very little noticeable signs of flexing or stress marks over 100+ repeated priming. So it looks to be suitable for such spring loads.
Tests with 20+ kg springs do show some flexing and slight bending in the bolt sled during priming movements. Although it is more durable compared to the stock bolt sled, its not indestructible... so users should also consider using customized shotgun grips to balance out the load stress on the bolt sled.
This Mod Guide will cover the popular Spring Relocation Mod for the Nerf Vortex Proton, Vigilon and Praxis.
All 3 blasters use the same torsion spring powered disc launching system, so their modding methods are the similiar.
This mod is quite straightforward, simply disassemble the blaster casing and access the launcher mechanism, then relocate the torsion spring's securing leg one mounting point to the left. This increases the initial load in the torsion spring, thereby increasing the power of the shot.
Here are the reference photos for the spring relocation mods:
The spring relocation mod improves ranges on average by around 15ft. Quite effective for such an easy mod. :)
In addition, torsion springs with higher loads could also be used too. Here are examples of custom made aftermarket torsion springs for comparison:
Left to Right: Stock spring, 30% stronger spring, 120% stronger spring.
The stock torsion springs are already very strong in the first place, so i was only able to get the 30% stronger springs to fit and work properly... the other springs i tested with even higher loads were way too difficult to install and the internal components could not take the stress, which resulted in numerous cracked and broken parts in my test units.
With the 30% stronger spring installed, ranges improved by another approx. 10ft (over and above the spring relocation mod).
Note that wear and tear on the internal parts will naturally be much higher (especially with stronger springs), so modders will have to consider between performance improvements vs the lifespan of the blaster parts. :)
:: Sample Test Fire Data ::
Ranges are PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation). Distance is measured at where the disc lands (Average of 10 discs).
Vortex Proton/Vigilon/Praxis (Stock) Average range = 55-65ft
Vortex Proton/Vigilon/Praxis(Spring Relocated) Average range = 70-80ft
Vortex Proton/Vigilon/Praxis (Spring Relocated + Stronger Spring) Average range = 80-90ft
Note that the test was done indoors with standard Vortex foam discs. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used). .
Wouldn't it be useful to be able to easily replicate and make your own replacement blaster parts? or perhaps even custom make parts too?
The common method to make replacement parts amongst modders usually involves cutting shapes out of polycarbonate sheets, but that requires a fair amount of work with special tools, along with lots of polycarbonate dust flying everywhere.
The other method is to contract a custom parts fabrication company to do it, but that requires dealing with minimum order quantities and higher monetary expenditures, not really cost efficient for simple blaster parts.
Therefore i was looking at an easier (and cost effective) method to make detailed parts as and when required.
With this objective in mind, i looked into a technique that is commonly used in many scale model hobbies to make replicated parts = Epoxy Resin Casting.
I've seen modders use epoxy resin to reinforce joints or to fill up empty spaces in blaster casings, but i've not yet seen anyone actually make working detailed blaster parts using epoxy resin.
So i tested out the epoxy resin cast method and it works!
Here is the build process...
- Make the Casting Mold -
In my example, i use EasyMold Silicone Putty to make the casting mold, so my process will be based on this particular product.
Once a silicone mold is made, the same mold can be used repeatedly for casting many parts.
There are other similar silicone mold brands that can also be used too, just follow the instructions specific to those products.
Step 1:
Mix 2 equal parts of the silicone putty components. Knead the mixture until the color is uniform.
You will need to work fast as the EasyMold Silicone Putty compound has a very short working time.
Step 2:
For this example, i will be casting a PAS trigger.
Press the original plastic PAS trigger into the prepared silicone compound, make sure it sits completely in the putty and creates a detailed impression.
Note thats this is a one part mold. For functionality and simplicity, i only needed to replicate the right side of the trigger as thats the side that requires part detail for the catch spring to mount on.
For more detailed molds, 2 part molds can also be made by creating the mold in 2 stages with enclosed mold pieces.
Step 3: After 20+ minutes, the silicone mold will cure enough that you can remove the original part.
Leave the silicone mold to cure further for a minimum 24 hours... then its ready for usage.
- Make the Epoxy Resin Cast Part -
For the casting material, i used high strength 2-part epoxy resin. The epoxy resin does not adhere to the silicone mold so its suitable as a casting material.
I've tested various epoxy resin and they all vary in strength depending on the intended application. Since the part i intend to make undergoes high mechanical stress loads, i found that Devcon "Plastic Steel" Epoxy worked well, as it has good tensile and shear strength.
Step 1:
Mix the 2-part epoxy resin and hardener until it has a uniform color, then apply the mixture into the silicone mold in layers until it is completely filled.
Make sure to fill up the mold completely so that there are no unfilled spaces or air bubbles trapped inside.
Let the epoxy resin cure for 6-8 hours (cure time will depend on environmental conditions).
Step 2:
After the epoxy resin cast part has cured, remove it from the mold. Just flex the silicone mold slightly and the part will pop out.
Trim off any mold lines or excess epoxy resin material with a hobby knife or sanding file.
Here is a comparison of the epoxy resin cast trigger versus the original plastic trigger.
If the cast part comes out with lots of holes (looking like swiss cheese), then it's probably due to too many gaps and air bubbles introduced during the mold filling process.
Just mix a small amount of epoxy resin again to fill in those holes and let it cure further.
Step 3:
Fit the epoxy resin cast part to the blaster, it should have a perfect fitment.
Do any further trimming or adjustments as required, then you can start using it.
Since you can re-use the silicone mold many times, just cast a new part anytime as and when needed! :)
Application Demo Video:
Summary:
So far, i've tested the epoxy resin cast PAS triggers and they were able to handle up to 20+ kg load main springs. The catches worked perfectly over hundreds of shots, so it looks like they can be suitable and durable replacements for other load bearing parts too.
Yes... its indeed possible to make epoxy resin cast blaster parts! :) .
Experienced modders who have worked on the ERTL Pump Action Shotgun (PAS)
will know how easy it is to convert it from firing its original foam
ball ammo to firing customized foam dart ammo... and most have experienced the nice 90-100ft ranges
that can be easily achieved even with just the stock spring and plunger seal (especially when
matched with the right foam dart and barrel setup).
But exactly how fast can it be done?
This
"speed modding challenge" came about a while back when one of my
colleagues got his brand new PAS in the mail, then he proceeded to open
the box and mod his unit on the spot, so we quickly took the opportunity
to time the entire conversion process. As the conversion mod is easily reversible, it
eventually became a sort of fun competition amongst the guys to see who
can mod faster!
Most new modders wonder how a PAS can be modded quickly and easily, so i created a demo video to show how its done.
Here is how to transform a 15ft range foam ball blaster into a 90-100ft range foam dart blaster... in just 3 minutes! :)
Yeah, it kinda makes modding most other blasters look way too time consuming and tedious in comparison (to achieve similar ranges). :)
This was a side project that i worked on back in 2010, i completed almost 90% of it, but ended up shelving the parts 'cos i shifted my focus onto other modding projects.
Recently, i've been modding a few blasters which came in single barrel designs, they have great performance but with all the new blasters available nowadays with much higher ammo capacity and RoF, single barrel blasters tend to be at a slight disadvantage in Nerf games, so i resumed working on modular PVC turret designs to further improve the effectiveness of those single barrel blasters.
Some modders may have also seen the excellent 8-shot turrets made by SorrowX at the NerfHaven forum, he used a 3D printer to create his turret parts and the result is nicely made parts... though unfortunately the parts creation process itself is largely inaccessible to most of us modders.
My modular turret design aims to achieve a similar goal, except that it does not require a 3D printer, just PVC pipes and epoxy glue. :)
Here is the process...
Step 1:
These are the basic materials and tools that you'll need.
- 13mm / 16mm / 20mm SingaPlastics PVC Pipes (Thinwall Versions)
- 1/2" PETG Tubes (.528" ID / .572" OD)
- 2-Part Epoxy Glue (I use Selleys Super Strong Epoxy Glue)
- Pipe Cutter
Note that all the pipes and tubes i use are able to nest within each other. This turret design is built around those material specifications.
Its also possible to make this turret with non-nesting pipes and tubes too, you'll just have to adapt the parts to fit and align with each other.
Step 2:
We will start with the barrel spacers first.
For each barrel spacer, cut 8 x 1cm length 13mm PVC pipe and 1 x 1cm length 20mm PVC pipe. Ensure that the cuts are even and matching, avoid making angled or uneven cuts.
Use the pipe cutter's reaming tool or a hobby knife to trim off any sharp bits sticking out, so that the barrel spacer ports have a smooth surface.
Position the smaller pipe rings in a balanced circle around the central large pipe ring, then fill the space in between with epoxy glue. Constantly make sure that the parts are all aligned properly.
I did the gluing process in stages. The glue is applied in successive layers, each time the glue is properly cured for a few hours before the next layer is applied. After 3-4 layers, the space will be filled in nicely and forms a very tough bond between the parts.
Do this twice to create 2 x barrel spacers.
Step 3:
Next will be the PETG barrel assembly.
In my example, i use 1ft length barrels.
Cut 8 x 1ft PETG tubes and slot them into the barrel spacers, check that they are all aligned.
Do NOT glue the barrels in yet! We still need to mount the barrels onto the main turret assembly later.
Step 4:
This is the main component of the turret system, which comprises of the connection and turret rotation points.
Cut 1 x 4.5cm length 16mm PVC pipe, 1 x 2cm length 20mm PVC pipe and 1 x 2cm length 16mm PVC pipe.
Epoxy glue them together vertically, make sure they are aligned with the barrel spacer positions.
Step 5:
Build up the rest of the turret fitment parts.
Note that i design my turret connection point to connect to 20mm pipe couplers which i use in all my modded blasters, if you use other kinds of couplers, you'll have to adjust accordingly.
Cut 1 x 2cm length 20mm PVC pipe (as the connection point), 1 x 4.5cm length 13mm PVC pipe (to slot into the main nozzle to reduce deadspace), 1 x 5cm length 16mm PVC pipe (as the barrel spacer holder and rotation point) and 1 x 1cm length 13mm PVC pipe (as a base for the bottom turret "barrel stopper", explained later).
Epoxy glue everything in.
Step 6:
Prepare the turret system.
Cut out a suitable sized ring of foam padding and attach it on the top nozzle for the turret seal, put a rubber o-ring around the middle rotation point (i used a Nerf Stampede o-ring, apply grease to it so that the rotation is smooth) and stack some foam inside the bottom section along with a dome shaped stopper (i used a plastic button from a coat).
The dome shaped part at the bottom acts as a "barrel stopper", when the turret turns, the stopper will be pushed back and compress the foam behind, then when the next barrel is in position, the stopper pops back forward and locks the barrel in place.
My earlier designs used a toothed clutch system, but i found that too troublesome to make (alot of tedious precision cutting of the PVC sections needed), and they were not really required since there isn't an integrated auto-rotation mechanism anyways.... the system just required something simple to hold the barrels in place.
Step 7:
Connect the turret system to the barrel assembly.
I used 1 x 1cm length 16mm PVC pipe as a fastening collar to secure both components together, bolted on with 2 x machine screws. This also facilitates easy changing of parts if required.
The fit of the fastening collar is very important, make sure it secures the parts tightly (but still allowing smooth rotation with the o-ring), this keeps the barrel assembly constantly level with the air exit nozzle at the top section. This is essential to achieve 100% turret air-seal.
The barrels can now be glued in permanently if you wish... but in my case i leave them secured by friction fit, i've test fired hundreds of shots and they all still stay in position (just adding an extra layer of tape on the looser barrels did the trick), so i can also have the option to change the barrels anytime if needed.
Every barrel has been tested with 100% turret air-seal, the plunger stops mid-way when the barrel is blocked and it can even vacuum load foam darts too. :)
Completed SGN-8T : Modular PVC Turret!
Here is an example of the Modular PVC Turret fitted on a modded PAS with a 20mm coupler connection... i call it PAS-8T.
Rear loading ammo slots, 3 on each side = 6 rear loading slots in total.
The turret can be easily swapped between blasters with compatible coupler connections. :)
