Here are 2 demo videos which show possible setups that can be incorporated into various air tank blaster mods.
Safety Valve System - Parts Demo
System Parts:
- Topeak Pump (Mini Dual G)
- Pressure Gauge
- Adjustable Pressure Release Safety Valve
- Nerf Air Tech 3000 (AT3K) Air Tank Assembly
- M6 size Pressure Rated Air Hoses
- M6 size Pressure Rated Quick Release Couplers
You'll notice in the video that i'm using a Topeak Mini Dual G (2-stage/double-action) Bike Pump, it has a max. pressure rating of 120 PSI and it only took me 2 easy pumps to reach 50 PSI with the AT3K air tank (a magstrike pump would have required 6-7 pumps to reach that PSI).
Thats one of the reasons why i had to install a safety valve in my modded AT3K units, 'cos the pump effort is so easy and light that i sometimes accidentally put extra pumps into it and end up exceeding 100 PSI, which makes the trigger so difficult to pull that i had to open the casing to disconnect the air hose just to manually release the excess air pressure. With the safety valve i can set the limits or vent the pressure externally.
Anyways, after trying out various replacement pumps, i now use the Topeak Pumps for all my modded AT3Ks, it allows the blaster to operate at a much higher RoF and with alot less effort, so i recommend it (or similiar high pressure rated double-action bike pumps) for any modder who is looking for a similiar combo.
Here is what an early setup looked like (before i installed the safety valve, which is positioned at where the goo gauge used to be):
TP3k = Topeak 3k. :)
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Constant Pressure Air Feed System - Parts Demo
System Parts:
- Topeak Pump (Mini Dual G)
- Pressure Gauge
- Adjustable Air Flow Control Valve
- Rubber Air Bladder (From Nerf RF20)
- Nerf Air Tech 3000 (AT3K) Air Tank Assembly
- M6 size Pressure Rated Air Hoses
- M6 size Pressure Rated Quick Release Couplers
For this system, its similiar to what some modders have already previously done with their "semi-auto" mods, in my example i'm using an Adjustable Air Flow Control Valve to slow down the speed of the air refill from the rubber air bladder and the AT3K air tank. The air flow valve can be adjusted larger, so that the refill will be faster in between shots, but it'll also use up more air due to the increased flow leakage during firing.
Note that the constant pressure is derived from the rubber air bladder (not the air flow control valve).
Btw, all the pressure rated components i used in these setups are sourced from my local pneumatic equipment parts supply shops... i guess you can find similiar parts quite easily from online sites too.
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where did you get the t fittings and stuff
ReplyDeletethanks
Noah Palladino,
ReplyDeleteAs mentioned in the guide:
"...all the pressure rated components i used in these setups are sourced from my local pneumatic equipment parts supply shops... i guess you can find similiar parts quite easily from online sites too."
thanks
ReplyDeleteHow is a Secret Strike's internals like; is there only a tiny plastic air tank? Interested. Perhaps do a simple & quick mod guide..? Just curious. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteDarkReaper,
ReplyDeleteThe Nerf Secret Strike AS-1 uses a different type of design, known amongst modders as "back pressure" systems, you can check out the internals and how it works in this link:
http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19254&view=findpost&p=271117
Is it possible to add the safety valve to the bladder set up?
ReplyDeleteEvozn,
DeleteWell, a safety valve could also be added, but note that a safety valve (as shown in the guide) only releases air based on a set pressure, which is more suitable for rigid air tank systems.
In an air bladder setup, the pressure builds up then levels off to a constant pressure (the air bladder just increases in size once it achieves a certain pressure) so a safety valve based on pressure settings may not serve as a suitable method to control such setups.
A simple push button air release attached to the expanding air bladder that activates when it touches the blaster casing (like in a Magstrike or Rapid Fire 20) would be a better method for air bladder systems.
Hi SG,
ReplyDeleteWhere do you get your barrel guides? Do you make them yourself?
T da B,
DeleteThe polycarbonate turret spacers? They are custom made by venom213 at the NerfHaven forum.
You can check out his trading thread in this link:
http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=21082
Thanks a lot! I'm in the process of creating my own TP3K, and I'm rounding up parts now. I have a few more questions: 1. What is the piece connecting into the pump? 2. Are those quick disconnect branch tees? 3. Is that a check valve after the safety valve's branch tee, or is it built into the air tank?
DeleteT da B,
DeleteThe piece connecting to the pump is a tire valve with a short length of pressure tubing glued to it (to act as a sort of pump adapter).
Yes, the T-joints are all quick connect pressure couplers.
The connector after the safety valve is just a straight quick connect pressure coupler, it helps keep the system modular, so that i can swap parts around easily.
There are usually no check valves built into bike pumps, so it a good idea to install an additional check valve right after the pump itself so that the air can be kept in the system for longer periods of time (otherwise the air may slowly leak back out of the connected tire valves or pumps).
I didn't shown it in the demo videos but for my TP3K set, i installed an additional quick connect check valve after the pump connection (so that i can pump it up and it will hold pressure for long durations of time during games).
Excellent! One more thing: What pressure rating should the safety valve be set to? Or another way to ask: At what psi does the trigger become impossible to pull?
ReplyDeleteT da B,
DeleteSo far, i've been using my modded AT3K at 70-75 PSI, 'cos its the optimal level for best ranges with my stefan and barrel setup (only 3 pumps from a Topeak Mini Dual G already gets it to that pressure anyways)... but at that pressure the trigger does require quite abit of extra strength to pull.
If the pressure is any higher, i've found that the trigger will tend to get stuck.
Do note that it also depends on the individual blaster unit's air tank (some units cannot take those pressures and end up cracking or leaking), so you'll just have to test it progressively and see which PSI levels are suitable.
A few more things, my friend:
Delete1. How did you attach the pump to the body? I was thinking of seating the little bump (psi gauge) on the Topeak pump up into a gap I cut in both shells, then using zip ties through where the old pump handle used to slide. How did you do it?
2. Are you using smaller barrels than 1/2'' ID and 5/8'' OD PETG? Venom says he can't make me a spacer with 5/8'' holes! (The holes are too big)
T da B,
DeleteFor my unit, i cut the casing with a gap at the bottom to fit the Topeak pump shape exactly, then i use an additional velcro strap to thread into the original slots and around the pump to secure it.
The PETG barrels i use are the standard 0.528" ID / 0.578" OD versions used by majority of modders. I just apply a layer of scotch tape around the barrels at where the polycarbonate turret spacers will be positioned and they fit nicely.
I can't tell you how thankful I am for all your help, SG. One final question and my TP3K will be complete!
DeleteHow did you secure the PSI gauge? I'm looking for a more elegant solution than hot gluing it in place.
T da B,
DeleteI guess you could try converting suitable sized metal or plastic brackets to hold the pressure gauge, then maybe secure the bracket to the casing with machine screws... otherwise, most modders usually mount it either outside or inside the casing and then use hot glue or epoxy putty to keep it steady.
Finally done! I can't thank you enough for all your help, SG. You have helped me create the most powerful blaster I've ever made! Check out my blog to see what you've inspired :)
DeleteHey SG,
ReplyDeleteI decided to start my own blog! You are one of my biggest inspirations when it comes to modding, and I've decided to make my own contributions to the world now! Check it out at nerfbuff.blogspot.com
~T
hey, sorry to bring up an old topic
ReplyDeletebut...
1. whats your average distance with an air tank (titan or BBUMB) filled to 40 psi? (assuming you've re barreled and are using modded darts)
2. what about an absolver/shotgun attachment? (at 40 psi, distance/spread of darts?)
3. I'm planing on building your constant pressure system for a project, and from what I've gathered (from digging through different forums), I can build an air bladder using latex tubing. McMaster-carr sells this tubing (some webpage recommended it. I'll leave a link at the bottom of this post. sku number for the tubing is: 5234K53) but, according to the webpage, the tubing has an operating pressure of 35 psi. (which, yet again, this web page says will only output about 2/3rds of this rating).
So, to make a long question short: What tubing would you personally use? (to get 50/60/70 psi output?)
or do you have another method of making an air bladder?
Website mentioned earlier: http://www.sscentral.org/homemade/lrt.html
I know most/all of the info on that page has to do with super soakers (water is much different than air XD) but It's the best I could dig up
Thank you so much! and sorry for the long post :/
I tried looking up the most of this info, but couldn't find it anywhere! (found distance ratings for singled titans and BBUMBs, but nothing mentioning there PSI along with it >.<)
Hell, if I get this project to work (attempting to build a true repeating shotgun) I'll send it to yah! good trade for the answers to these questions? XD
Anonymous,
DeleteWell, 40 PSI is considered a relatively low pressure so the ranges even in large air-tank volume blasters would be relatively limited too... usually only 80-90ft with a typical 1ft single barrel with matched stefans.
With an absolver/shotgun "grouped barrels" attachment, the ranges will decrease further, so you'd probably look at around 25-35ft with perhaps a 4-6 barrel setup (it'll depend on ammo weight and number of barrels).
You may look at increasing the pressure to get longer ranges, most modders operate their blasters on 50-60PSI, in my case i usually run an average of around 70-80PSI on my modded air tank blasters nowadays with heavier stefans, those higher pressures and stefan configuration are what achieve the optimal longer singled ranges (ie. 140-150ft).
If you want to use a latex tubing as the reserve air source for a constant pressure air system, go for the highest PSI rating version available.
You can also consider using the air bladders from Magstrikes or Rapid Fire 20 blasters too, those can average up to 40-50 PSI constant pressure over a few shots when used with a AT3K air tank... note that with larger air tanks like the Titan or BBUMB, you'll need to link up alot more air bladders to provide enough air for each re-fill.
Pressure tubing-wise, for all my modded air-tank blasters i use M6-size pressure tubing and couplers which have a max. 150 PSI rating.
I guess you can mix and match the setup and see what works well for your gameplay style, do post an update of your results. :)
If this is a necro post I'm sorry. I wanted to use the pump you used here with a titan tank. Would you suggest the same tubing and fittings to do so? I was going to reuse the Titan pressure gauge as my pressure gauge and put a OPRV in the system.
ReplyDeleteThanks