Hey SG, any way you can get pictures of the internals when the bolt is pulled back?
Neat! do you have any idea when these will come to the u.s.? Also, how much was it? I am looking forward to this gun!
Parabellum,Well, taking a photo of the internals with the bolt pulled back and spring compressed is quite difficult with the casing open. :)The 4th photo should give you an idea of how the plunger internals work.
Chriz,The Buzz Bee Hunter was purchased from Toys R Us in Singapore, priced at SGD$19.90.No idea when they would become avaliable in the States though... so i guess you'll have to just keep a lookout at the dept stores in your area. :)
Thanks! I can't wait to mod one of these! Also, the internals are very similar to the Rapid fire rifle, right?
Chriz,Yup, the Hunter's internal mechanisms are similiar to the Rapid Fire rifle.
could u post a simple AR removal tutorial?
VersatileChicken,Well, the AR in the Hunter is quite easy to remove, the simplest method is to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grip the dart post within the bolt, then just twist and pull it out. After that just use a Dremel with a drill bit to widen the bolt's air channel abit more as required.Note that just doing an AR removal on it's own in the Hunter may decrease range 'cos the bolt originally has a loose seal on foam darts (that's what the dart post was for). So a narrower piece of pipe or tube will need to be nested within the bolt for an improved air seal.Even better if it's modded with an air-tight bolt to barrel breech system. :)
cool i might get 1 soon $20 im sure a quick mod wont take up to much time i think its best for this blaster to hot have the fake barrel unless u have a great plunger head seal and sprrings if u did that u could make a brass breach on the stock breach like how u would with a regular breach =)
Hey SG,Read on the Hunter video that you tried some mods on this? Just wondering how they work out, because I'm really interested in using this gun more often but it's current range is sad face.I was wondering whether a brass breech like the larger Nerfs would work, but maintain it at single loading capacity. Also, the pipe seal from plunger to bolt could be improved on from what I see. Do you think permanently connecting the hose to the bolt would be a good idea?Really looking forward to your reply, or even better, a small guide!Thanks
ZENN™,Well, for me the Hunter is more of a novelty blaster. I actually enjoy it more as a stock blaster with a fun rotating bolt action movement.After the various mods i've done on it, i'm getting ranges of around 45-50ft, which is around that of a similiarly modded Recon. By the nature of its design, there is naturally a limitation to its power improvements.I did a very simple air-tight breech system on it by just using 2 seperate 9/16" brass tube sections nested within the bolt and within the barrel. Then i used a short 19/32" brass tube section to collar halfway over the 9/16" brass bolt section. This acts as a basic "connector" which creates the air-tight seal when the brass bolt is pushed forward to join with the brass barrel.Permanently attaching the hose to the bolt might help improve the plunger to bolt air seal abit more, though that'll require some additional custom work with the internals if the rotating bolt mechanism is still to be used.
Wonderful dude, love it that you reply so promptly. Saw your more detailed comment on the other post too. 45-50ft would be decent for what I need, I think I'll tamper with brass for my first time next week.Gonna try it out, thanks a lot.
Need to ask again, in stock condition the thing pushing the dart into the bolt is the green piece controlled by the trigger; how does it accomplish that when the barrel is changed?Also, are there any safety mechanisms you removed? Like the black tab at the back that prevents you from pulling the trigger? Thanks a lot.
ZENN™,When i converted it to an air-tight brass breech, i removed the green flip-up dart blocker. The foam darts simply slide into the bolt and barrel when they are closed. Note that the foam darts i use fit snugly in 9/16" brass tubes, therefore they will stay in position within the bolt and barrel (will not drop out) until fired.I didn't remove any other safety mechanisms. I kept the black part at the bolt intact as it prevents accidental trigger pulls when the bolt is pulled back and plunger primed. Especially when i'm using a brass bolt, i'm not too keen to risk accidently pulling the trigger when the brass bolt is open while i'm loading a dart... wouldn't want to have my finger sliced off. :)
So it is okay if the dart isn't fully to the back of the bolt when chambered?Sorry for the numerous questions but I noticed nested inside the stock bolt is a smaller diameter ring of plastic, do you do anything to that or just add on the 9/16 in front of it?
ZENN™,Well, for a stock breech, the foam dart should ideally be pushed further into the bolt to get a better air seal, but if the breech is an air-tight system, its okay of the foam dart is not fully pushed back into the bolt, 'cos it'll still get efficient air pressure from the plunger.I left the smaller diameter plastic tube within the bolt intact and simply nested my brass tubes in front of it with layers of tape. Just make sure the whole assembly is air-tight.
so its like a single shot sniper rifle right?
hey SG Nerf, i tried taking the AR out, but i think its partially incomplete as i pulled the stick out but not the whole thing..not sure if this is considered fully removed but seems like i need to drill into it.
Kai,Just use a drill to widen the channel in the bolt.
Any chance we could get a picture of your brass breech system, and can it still use streamlines?
griffin,I've already given away my brass breeched Hunter (i don't use it in games anyways), so i don't have a photo of it.But for reference, i simply use a length of 9/16" brass tube fixed into the original plastic barrel as a brass barrel, then installed a staggered 17/32" in 9/16" brass ring assembly inside the plastic bolt. So when the bolt chambers the foam dart, the brass section in the bolt will connect with the brass barrel to form an air-tight seal.Its similar to my Brass Barrel Slide Breech design:http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/08/brass-barrel-slide-breech-build-guide.htmlFor the Hunter, the bolt is the moving part chambering the foam dart instead of the barrel.Yes, it can still use streamline darts, but streamline dart fit tends to be abit loose in 9/16" brass barrels, such barrels are more suitable for wider diameter customized darts and stefans.
Thanks so much! hopefully I can figure it out because I love the gun too much not to use it for indoor wars.
How do you do a spring replacement? I tried taking the small metal piece out but couldn't bet it out any help?
superturtleshell,You can carefully tap out the metal pin with a precision screwdriver and hammer, just needs some time and patience to get it out.
I know you said in one of your comments above that just an AR removal by itself "may decrease range 'cos the bolt originally has a loose seal on foam darts," but I tried it on mine and I'm getting improved ranges, about 35-40 ft. Maybe I was lucky and got a good gun though. Otherwise,it is possible to only do an AR removal without a narrower piece of pipe or tube nested within the bolt for an improved air seal.Of course, having a narrower piece of pipe or tube, or even a brass breech will probably improve ranges even more than just a simple AR removal.
C-Fu,Yes, as with all these toy blasters, the variations in their plastic parts tolerance and foam dart diameters can differ even within the same production batch, so it's just a matter of trying out various methods to increase it's performance.
seems like i lost the catch spring, what should i do?
Chris,Perhaps you could try getting suitable replacement springs from ballpoint pens? Might work. :)
thanks for the idea, it worked fine. what would be the best way to attach this:http://images.bidorbuy.co.za/user_images/830/122830_Red_Dot_Sight.jpg on the top?
Chris,To mount such scopes, you could transplant suitable rails from other blasters or get them from stores that sell the rails separately.Alternatively, just glue it to the casing.
Have you tried stepping down the tubing to a smaller diameter to increase delivered air pressure? Not sure if it would work, but theoretically forcing the same volume of air through a smaller diameter hose should increase pressure at the chamber.
Fuji,Well, when the air flow is narrowed in that tubing, it limits the flow of air in between the plunger and the bolt... the pressure increase isn't as effective in this case because the air just seeps into a larger chamber at the bolt, which equalizes the pressure as the air flow is not fast enough, so the effect would be more of an air restriction than a benefit.
SG Nerf,Thanks for the info. Haven't looked that deep into the bolt yet. Just knocked the AR out of it. Haven't even installed the CPVC yet. Also, good info on the brass. I'm looking to install that next.
SG Nerf,Can u make the buzz bee hunter like a kar 98k specificaly the internal clip
Jonggi,Possible, though you'd have to re-arrange all the plunger components that are already in the design.Imho, it'll be easier just to get the newer Buzz Bee Hawk instead, its an improved version which comes with a clip-fed system.
SG Nerf,how to reinforce the catch spring??
Unknown,Just replace or add a stronger catch spring.
i wonder if black tactical have a v2 catch spring for hunter...would v2 nitefinder fit in this blaster or the ori spring it alredy power enough
maybe you can use nerf vortex spring...but i think that vortex spring is to big....
Unknown,You'll just have to test those springs and see if they can work for your usage.Btw, the main springs in the Vortex blaster launcher mechanisms are torsion springs, not coil springs.
mine is unmodded but I get 50 ft easy I am putting a piece of pvc pipe for a longer barrel witch should help with range (im right handed so the bolt don't bother me when I load but I am also thinkin bout putting a few dart holders on the side of the stock ---colby88---
my bolt handle fell off after i cycled the bolt around 150-ish times and there are no internal pictures for the internals inside the bolt handle itself. what should i do? any help would be appreciated thanks:)
Anonymous, The bolt handle parts are just plastic pieces screwed together, maybe something came loose or maybe broke, you'll have to open them up to fix it.
could you cut the shoulder stock off and the barrel to make it a pistol
Anonymous,Yes, you could cut off the empty shell portion of the shoulder stock and remove the plastic front barrel and it'll still work.