For the full review of the Buzz Bee Hunter, click Here.
Buzz Bee Hunter - Disassembled
Buzz Bee Hunter - Front Internals
Buzz Bee Hunter - Back Internals
Buzz Bee Hunter - Plunger Internals
Friday, June 25, 2010
Buzz Bee Hunter - Internals Guide!
This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Buzz Bee Hunter.
For the full review of the Buzz Bee Hunter, click Here.
Buzz Bee Hunter - Disassembled
Buzz Bee Hunter - Front Internals
Buzz Bee Hunter - Back Internals
Buzz Bee Hunter - Plunger Internals
For the full review of the Buzz Bee Hunter, click Here.
Buzz Bee Hunter - Disassembled
Buzz Bee Hunter - Front Internals
Buzz Bee Hunter - Back Internals
Buzz Bee Hunter - Plunger Internals
Saturday, June 19, 2010
Custom Fabricated Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Review!
Finding that your modded Big Blast plastic triggers are constantly breaking?
Solution: Custom Fabricated Big Blast Aluminium Trigger!
These custom fabricated triggers are made from precision milled aluminium and designed for a perfect fit in the Big Blast, just swap the stock plastic trigger with it and its complete!
Buzz Bee Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Comparison with Stock Trigger
(Top: Stock Trigger / Right: Custom Fabricated Aluminium Trigger)
Buzz Bee Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Internal Fitment
Solution: Custom Fabricated Big Blast Aluminium Trigger!
These custom fabricated triggers are made from precision milled aluminium and designed for a perfect fit in the Big Blast, just swap the stock plastic trigger with it and its complete!
Buzz Bee Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Comparison with Stock Trigger
(Top: Stock Trigger / Right: Custom Fabricated Aluminium Trigger)
Buzz Bee Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Internal Fitment
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Nerf Blaster - FPS Chronograph Speed Tests!
In the spirit of popular TV series like Myth Busters and The Deadliest Warrior, here is the Nerf blaster version of FPS Speed Tests! :)
I've managed to get a Shooting Chrony F-1 FPS Measuring Chronograph, so its now possible to generate some reference FPS data for stock and modified Nerf blasters.
You can spot the same device being used in the above mentioned TV series to measure projectile speeds for data comparisons. It can measure speeds from bullets, arrows, pellets, paintballs... and yes, foam darts too. From 30 FPS (feet per second) to 7,000 FPS.
As a projectile passes over the 1st sensor, it starts a counter and when the projectile passes over the 2nd sensor it stops the counter, the device calculates the FPS in realtime and the results pop up on its LCD screen.
FPS measurement is of keen interest to Nerf enthusiasts and especially modders who can finally get some quantitative data on the actual speed of the foam darts fired from modified blasters (instead of saying "its faster" just by looking).
Here is a quick review of the Shooting Chrony F-1 that will be used for these FPS speed tests:
Shooting Chrony F-1 (Box)
Shooting Chrony F-1 (Un-Boxed)
Shooting Chrony F-1 (Assembled with Light Diffusers)
Shooting Chrony F-1 (Mounted on Camera Tripod)
The device is designed to be portable (it folds up into the size of a brick).
Okay, lets start measuring FPS speeds!
Here are a few sets of reference FPS data that i've generated from some of my blasters.
Test Perimeters:
- FPS data are an average of 12 recorded shots from each blaster.
- All test shots are fired with the blaster barrel muzzle approx. 6 inches from the 1st sensor.
- Tests are done indoors with natural light sources.
- Foam darts used are Converted SDL Darts (CSD).
- Nerf Longshot -
Stock Longshot
Modified Longshot (AR Removed, 14kg Spring, Deadspace Elimination)
Brass Breech Longshot (AR Removed, 14kg Spring, Deadspace Elimination, 100% Air-Tight Brass Breech System)
- Nerf Recon -
Stock Recon
Modified Recon (AR Removed, 6kg Spring)
Modified Recon (AR Removed, 11kg Spring)
Brass Breech Recon (AR Removed, 11kg Spring, 100% Air-Tight Brass Breech)
.
I've managed to get a Shooting Chrony F-1 FPS Measuring Chronograph, so its now possible to generate some reference FPS data for stock and modified Nerf blasters.
You can spot the same device being used in the above mentioned TV series to measure projectile speeds for data comparisons. It can measure speeds from bullets, arrows, pellets, paintballs... and yes, foam darts too. From 30 FPS (feet per second) to 7,000 FPS.
As a projectile passes over the 1st sensor, it starts a counter and when the projectile passes over the 2nd sensor it stops the counter, the device calculates the FPS in realtime and the results pop up on its LCD screen.
FPS measurement is of keen interest to Nerf enthusiasts and especially modders who can finally get some quantitative data on the actual speed of the foam darts fired from modified blasters (instead of saying "its faster" just by looking).
Here is a quick review of the Shooting Chrony F-1 that will be used for these FPS speed tests:
Shooting Chrony F-1 (Box)
Shooting Chrony F-1 (Un-Boxed)
Shooting Chrony F-1 (Assembled with Light Diffusers)
Shooting Chrony F-1 (Mounted on Camera Tripod)
The device is designed to be portable (it folds up into the size of a brick).
Okay, lets start measuring FPS speeds!
Here are a few sets of reference FPS data that i've generated from some of my blasters.
Test Perimeters:
- FPS data are an average of 12 recorded shots from each blaster.
- All test shots are fired with the blaster barrel muzzle approx. 6 inches from the 1st sensor.
- Tests are done indoors with natural light sources.
- Foam darts used are Converted SDL Darts (CSD).
- Nerf Longshot -
Stock Longshot
Modified Longshot (AR Removed, 14kg Spring, Deadspace Elimination)
Brass Breech Longshot (AR Removed, 14kg Spring, Deadspace Elimination, 100% Air-Tight Brass Breech System)
- Nerf Recon -
Stock Recon
Modified Recon (AR Removed, 6kg Spring)
Modified Recon (AR Removed, 11kg Spring)
Brass Breech Recon (AR Removed, 11kg Spring, 100% Air-Tight Brass Breech)
.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Nerf Longshot Mod - Polycarbonate Shotgun Grip!
This is a quick mod guide by request from nerfers who spotted my modded Longshot with a customized Clear Polycarbonate Shotgun Grip during Nerf games, and have been asking how it was done.
The main benefit of a Longshot shotgun grip is a more efficient method of priming the blaster. Users can still support the front of the blaster while priming it, thereby maintaining steady aiming and better rate-of-fire.
In addition, the shotgun grip's dual arms both act in tandem to push back the bolt sled, which helps to balance out the load on both sides of the bolt sled during the priming action, thereby reducing uneven load stress (one of the common causes of bolt sled breakage, especially when using stronger aftermarket springs).
There are many ways to convert Longshots into "shotgun-gripped" versions. You can find many examples of similar mods at the various Nerf forums. Most of the mods require a fair bit of blaster modification and custom work though.
I use a slightly different (and simpler) method, with the objective to shotgun grip my Longshots without drilling or cutting the blaster casing, so that they can be reversible back to stock condition anytime and the shotgun grip can be transferred to another Longshot easily.
Okay, let's start...
Step 1: Remove the original bipod legs from the Longshot.
Step 2: Measure and draw out the arms and grip dimensions.
Here is my sample template (download and print it out in A4 size borderless mode).
Superimpose the schematics on the polycarbonate sheet. I use 3mm polycarbonate for the grip but 6mm polycarbonate for the arms (6mm thickness is highly recommended for the arms, especially for Longshots with stronger springs).
Cut out the sections using a jig saw or scroll saw. Please be careful when using power tools. Use a hobby knife or file to round off the corners slightly and smoothen the rough edges.
Step 3: Using a heat gun, i shaped the grip section into a U shape with twin inverted guide rails. Again, please be careful when using heating tools.
Step 4: Position the grip and arms.
Line up the screw points and use a motorized rotary tool (ie. Dremel) to drill the necessary holes.
Here is another example of my polycarbonate shotgun grip with some additional shaping and trimming for customized ergonomics to suit my personal grip style.
As you can see, no drilling or cutting of the original Longshot casing is required.
The polycarbonate shotgun grip's inverted guide rails basically ride along the Longshot's existing groove at the bottom part of the front section.
This is just a quick guide to show a simple way it can be done... there are many other methods to do it too, see what suits your preference! :)
The main benefit of a Longshot shotgun grip is a more efficient method of priming the blaster. Users can still support the front of the blaster while priming it, thereby maintaining steady aiming and better rate-of-fire.
In addition, the shotgun grip's dual arms both act in tandem to push back the bolt sled, which helps to balance out the load on both sides of the bolt sled during the priming action, thereby reducing uneven load stress (one of the common causes of bolt sled breakage, especially when using stronger aftermarket springs).
There are many ways to convert Longshots into "shotgun-gripped" versions. You can find many examples of similar mods at the various Nerf forums. Most of the mods require a fair bit of blaster modification and custom work though.
I use a slightly different (and simpler) method, with the objective to shotgun grip my Longshots without drilling or cutting the blaster casing, so that they can be reversible back to stock condition anytime and the shotgun grip can be transferred to another Longshot easily.
Okay, let's start...
Step 1: Remove the original bipod legs from the Longshot.
Step 2: Measure and draw out the arms and grip dimensions.
Here is my sample template (download and print it out in A4 size borderless mode).
Superimpose the schematics on the polycarbonate sheet. I use 3mm polycarbonate for the grip but 6mm polycarbonate for the arms (6mm thickness is highly recommended for the arms, especially for Longshots with stronger springs).
Cut out the sections using a jig saw or scroll saw. Please be careful when using power tools. Use a hobby knife or file to round off the corners slightly and smoothen the rough edges.
Step 3: Using a heat gun, i shaped the grip section into a U shape with twin inverted guide rails. Again, please be careful when using heating tools.
Step 4: Position the grip and arms.
Line up the screw points and use a motorized rotary tool (ie. Dremel) to drill the necessary holes.
Step 5: Position and solvent glue 2 small pieces of polycarbonate within the inverted guide rails, tinker with the dimensions until you get them to the right size and position.
This helps keep the grip in a level position when in operation.
Step 6: Assemble all the parts together.
I used 4 x 3mm diameter screws, washers and nuts to attach both arms to the grip, and a 3" length 4.5mm diameter bolt and nut, along with nylon spacers to thread through the original priming handle points and secure the arms to the bolt sled.
This helps keep the grip in a level position when in operation.
Step 6: Assemble all the parts together.
I used 4 x 3mm diameter screws, washers and nuts to attach both arms to the grip, and a 3" length 4.5mm diameter bolt and nut, along with nylon spacers to thread through the original priming handle points and secure the arms to the bolt sled.
Here is another example of my polycarbonate shotgun grip with some additional shaping and trimming for customized ergonomics to suit my personal grip style.
As you can see, no drilling or cutting of the original Longshot casing is required.
The polycarbonate shotgun grip's inverted guide rails basically ride along the Longshot's existing groove at the bottom part of the front section.
This is just a quick guide to show a simple way it can be done... there are many other methods to do it too, see what suits your preference! :)
Thursday, April 15, 2010
Nerf Recon "Brass Breech" Mod Guide!
Due to popular requests, here is a mod guide for the "Brass Breech" modification for the Nerf Recon.
This mod is also applicable to other Nerf N-Strike blasters with reverse plunger setups (ie. Raider, Deploy, Longstrike, Alpha Trooper etc).
Background:
For a background of what a Brass Breech is and what it does, please refer to the Longshot "Brass Breech" Mod Guide.
Introduction:
This mod guide will look very similar to the Longshot "Brass Breech" Mod Guide as they follow a similar modding process, but there are some specific differences in parts measurements, positioning and fit that modders will have to take note of.
To establish expectations, due to the smaller reverse plunger setup in Recons (or any of the other reverse plunger blasters), the potential performance gains will naturally be much less significant than in a Longshot.
Important Note:
The "Brass Breech" mod is a more advanced mod project that should only be performed by those who are already familiar with modding the Recon.
For new modders, refer to the Nerf Recon Mod Guide to get familiar with the modding basics first.
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
Lets begin...
Step 1:
You will need to obtain 4 different sizes of brass tubes (Brand: K&S Engineering).
The brass tube sizes are: 1/2", 17/32", 9/16" and 19/32". All of them are 0.014" wall thickness. They are usually supplied at hobby shops in either 1 ft or 3 ft length tubes.
Oxidization tends to occur in store bought supplies, so give the brass tubes a good polish with some Brasso Metal Polish, polish both externally and inside the tubes, this helps smoothen out the surfaces for lower friction.
Step 2:
We will work on the barrel and bolt receiver first.
In this example, i'm using 7" of 9/16" brass tube for the barrel.
Take a Rotary Tool with a cutting wheel, and cut a 7.5 cm length bolt receiver half-pipe in the 9/16" brass tube. The effective barrel length will be 4".
Use a sanding bit to round out the edges and corners.
Please be careful when handling such hobby tools, wear protective eyewear, dust masks and gloves.
Step 3:
To help the chambered darts achieve an even tighter air seal, make tightening rings in the barrel.
Use a Rotary Pipe Cutter and create the tightening rings. Just tighten the pipe cutter slightly around the brass tube, then rotate. Do it a few times to create the tightening rings.
Okay, that's all for the brass barrel and bolt receiver, you can put it aside for now.
Step 4:
We will now go on to the bolt section of the breech.
Separately cut out a set of brass tube sections in the following lengths:
1/2" brass tube: 10.5 cm
17/32" brass tube: 3 cm
9/16" brass tube : 2 cm
19/32" brass tube : 14 cm (4 cm for bolt half-pipe)
These are my custom tube measurements for a breech system for the Nerf Recon that can chamber standard-sized darts. In addition, it also features a more secure "half-pipe" bolt attachment point design.
The measurements need to be as accurate as possible. Any variations may affect the overall structure and air seal of the breech system.
Step 5:
Cut the original stock plastic bolt at the section shown below.
Nest all the 4 brass sections for the bolt completely into the plastic bolt end-piece.
Here is my Nested Brass Tubes Cut-Away Diagram for the Nerf Recon:
Use the strongest glue you can get to glue everything together. I use slow-curing 2-part strong epoxy glue. Make sure the glue cures completely for maximum bond strength.
Completed nested brass bolt assembly.
Nested brass bolt internal assembly.
Step 6:
We will now need to do a test alignment of the various components.
Secure the brass barrel inside the original orange plastic barrel by wrapping it with electrical or duct tape to temporarily widen it's outer diameter, so that the brass barrel can be wedged tightly inside the plastic barrel, yet still movable to allow adjustments for test fittings.
Check all the part positions and make sure that a clip with a standard-sized dart can fit nicely into the breech opening.
Note that the 19/32" brass bolt half-pipe will slide over the 9/16" brass barrel half-pipe, which in turn slides into the brass bolt assembly.
Step 7:
To attach the brass bolt to the bolt sled, we will need to cut out the attachment piece from the original plastic bolt.
Position the brass bolt, attachment piece and bolt sled in the casing and note the maximum forward and backward movement of the bolt to find the correct point to attach the plastic attachment tip to the brass bolt.
Note that a segment of plastic behind the attachment point has to be trimmed thinner so that it can slide into the plunger casing properly. Just whittle it down until it fits.
Use some sandpaper to roughen the surfaces on the plastic attachment tip and brass bolt, then use the strongest glue you can get to glue the 2 parts together. Again, i use slow-curing 2-part strong epoxy glue here too. As always, make sure the glue cures completely for maximum bond strength.
This is the section that has to take the most load, especially when stronger springs are used.
Step 8:
Assemble everything together into the casing, note that the pop-up blocker plate mechanisms are all removed, we don't need those anymore.
Step 9:
Test your "Brass Breech" Recon!
Breech open.
Breech closed.
Once you are confident that everything works properly, you can then proceed to permanently glue the brass barrel inside the orange plastic barrel. DIY some plastic spacer rings along the brass barrel to keep it centered within.
Its complete!
Sample Test Fire Results:
PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)
Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 6 darts).
Brass Breech Recon (11kg Load Spring)
Ammo: Customized FBR foam + 1.1 gram soft silicone tip weight
PTG = 70 ft
ATG = 90 ft
Note that the test was done indoors and the results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).
Important Usage Tips:
- Clips must be loaded only when the breech closed. This is so that the clip feed-lips can "catch" around the brass bolt for a proper fit.
- For smooth dart chambering process, make sure that foam darts used are no more than 7 cm in length.
- The better the foam dart fit in the brass barrel, the better the range results.
- Due to the smaller air volume of the Recon reverse plunger, using longer barrels may cause the foam darts to get stuck as it doesn't have enough power to propel them out. If that occurs, reduce the barrel length and test again.
This mod is also applicable to other Nerf N-Strike blasters with reverse plunger setups (ie. Raider, Deploy, Longstrike, Alpha Trooper etc).
Background:
For a background of what a Brass Breech is and what it does, please refer to the Longshot "Brass Breech" Mod Guide.
Introduction:
This mod guide will look very similar to the Longshot "Brass Breech" Mod Guide as they follow a similar modding process, but there are some specific differences in parts measurements, positioning and fit that modders will have to take note of.
To establish expectations, due to the smaller reverse plunger setup in Recons (or any of the other reverse plunger blasters), the potential performance gains will naturally be much less significant than in a Longshot.
Important Note:
The "Brass Breech" mod is a more advanced mod project that should only be performed by those who are already familiar with modding the Recon.
For new modders, refer to the Nerf Recon Mod Guide to get familiar with the modding basics first.
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
Lets begin...
Step 1:
You will need to obtain 4 different sizes of brass tubes (Brand: K&S Engineering).
The brass tube sizes are: 1/2", 17/32", 9/16" and 19/32". All of them are 0.014" wall thickness. They are usually supplied at hobby shops in either 1 ft or 3 ft length tubes.
Oxidization tends to occur in store bought supplies, so give the brass tubes a good polish with some Brasso Metal Polish, polish both externally and inside the tubes, this helps smoothen out the surfaces for lower friction.
Step 2:
We will work on the barrel and bolt receiver first.
In this example, i'm using 7" of 9/16" brass tube for the barrel.
Take a Rotary Tool with a cutting wheel, and cut a 7.5 cm length bolt receiver half-pipe in the 9/16" brass tube. The effective barrel length will be 4".
Use a sanding bit to round out the edges and corners.
Please be careful when handling such hobby tools, wear protective eyewear, dust masks and gloves.
Step 3:
To help the chambered darts achieve an even tighter air seal, make tightening rings in the barrel.
Use a Rotary Pipe Cutter and create the tightening rings. Just tighten the pipe cutter slightly around the brass tube, then rotate. Do it a few times to create the tightening rings.
Okay, that's all for the brass barrel and bolt receiver, you can put it aside for now.
Step 4:
We will now go on to the bolt section of the breech.
Separately cut out a set of brass tube sections in the following lengths:
1/2" brass tube: 10.5 cm
17/32" brass tube: 3 cm
9/16" brass tube : 2 cm
19/32" brass tube : 14 cm (4 cm for bolt half-pipe)
These are my custom tube measurements for a breech system for the Nerf Recon that can chamber standard-sized darts. In addition, it also features a more secure "half-pipe" bolt attachment point design.
The measurements need to be as accurate as possible. Any variations may affect the overall structure and air seal of the breech system.
Step 5:
Cut the original stock plastic bolt at the section shown below.
Nest all the 4 brass sections for the bolt completely into the plastic bolt end-piece.
Here is my Nested Brass Tubes Cut-Away Diagram for the Nerf Recon:
Use the strongest glue you can get to glue everything together. I use slow-curing 2-part strong epoxy glue. Make sure the glue cures completely for maximum bond strength.
Completed nested brass bolt assembly.
Nested brass bolt internal assembly.
Step 6:
We will now need to do a test alignment of the various components.
Secure the brass barrel inside the original orange plastic barrel by wrapping it with electrical or duct tape to temporarily widen it's outer diameter, so that the brass barrel can be wedged tightly inside the plastic barrel, yet still movable to allow adjustments for test fittings.
Check all the part positions and make sure that a clip with a standard-sized dart can fit nicely into the breech opening.
Note that the 19/32" brass bolt half-pipe will slide over the 9/16" brass barrel half-pipe, which in turn slides into the brass bolt assembly.
Step 7:
To attach the brass bolt to the bolt sled, we will need to cut out the attachment piece from the original plastic bolt.
Position the brass bolt, attachment piece and bolt sled in the casing and note the maximum forward and backward movement of the bolt to find the correct point to attach the plastic attachment tip to the brass bolt.
Note that a segment of plastic behind the attachment point has to be trimmed thinner so that it can slide into the plunger casing properly. Just whittle it down until it fits.
Use some sandpaper to roughen the surfaces on the plastic attachment tip and brass bolt, then use the strongest glue you can get to glue the 2 parts together. Again, i use slow-curing 2-part strong epoxy glue here too. As always, make sure the glue cures completely for maximum bond strength.
This is the section that has to take the most load, especially when stronger springs are used.
Step 8:
Assemble everything together into the casing, note that the pop-up blocker plate mechanisms are all removed, we don't need those anymore.
Step 9:
Test your "Brass Breech" Recon!
Breech open.
Breech closed.
Once you are confident that everything works properly, you can then proceed to permanently glue the brass barrel inside the orange plastic barrel. DIY some plastic spacer rings along the brass barrel to keep it centered within.
Its complete!
Sample Test Fire Results:
PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)
Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 6 darts).
Brass Breech Recon (11kg Load Spring)
Ammo: Customized FBR foam + 1.1 gram soft silicone tip weight
PTG = 70 ft
ATG = 90 ft
Note that the test was done indoors and the results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).
Important Usage Tips:
- Clips must be loaded only when the breech closed. This is so that the clip feed-lips can "catch" around the brass bolt for a proper fit.
- For smooth dart chambering process, make sure that foam darts used are no more than 7 cm in length.
- The better the foam dart fit in the brass barrel, the better the range results.
- Due to the smaller air volume of the Recon reverse plunger, using longer barrels may cause the foam darts to get stuck as it doesn't have enough power to propel them out. If that occurs, reduce the barrel length and test again.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Nerf Magstrike Mod - Air Compressor System!
The Nerf Magstrike has proven to be a popular high RoF blaster amongst Nerf players. It has a comfortable form factor, uses a clip-based ammo system, is powered by compressed air and can fire in both full-auto and burst-fire.
But even though its air bladder can be modded to hold more air volume to fire more clips at a time, there is still a limit to that function, not to mention all the physical effort required to manually pump it up!
The solution = Air Compressor Mod!
Pressure-rated air hoses and couplers can be sourced from pneumatic equipment manufacturers and suppliers.
In this mod, i'll be using the quick-release air hose couplers so that the system can be modular.
Step 2: Obtain a Portable Car Tire Air Compressor, a 12V Sealed Rechargable Battery, a 12V Plug Adaptor and a set of Electrical Cables.
Portable car tire air compressors can be sourced from car workshops or garages.
Step 3: Open up the Magstrike. Make sure it is a fully working unit without any air leaks.
DO NOT remove or plug the over-pressure valve (OPV).
If the OPV has been disabled, DO NOT perform this mod until its enabled or properly repaired.
When the Magstrike is connected to an air compressor, the OPV will act as a constant safe-guard to prevent over inflation (and resulting rupturing) of the air bladder system by releasing excess air pressure, it has to be functioning properly to avoid damage to the blaster (or user).
Step 5: Connect the air hose and quick-release splicer air hose coupler.
Step 6: Attach the air hose to the tire valve using 2-part epoxy glue, make sure the glue fills all the gaps but yet does not seep into the connection to ensure an unrestricted air-flow.
In my example, i used a smaller section of air hose connected to the tire valve, for modular design, and connected it to another quick-release splicer air hose coupler.
Test it out to check that everything is working properly, the air bladder should fill up and stay filled for an extended period of time, any decrease in pressure will indicate a leak somewhere in the system.
For those interested to know, the air compressor i use has an in-built pressure gauge, so i can track that the air bladder at full air volume (without the white retaining shell and after the OPV activates) is operating at around 50-60 PSI.
Note that with this alternative method, due to the limited space between the air bladder and air pump, the air pump may require some additional adjustments in positioning within the casing, including some trimming of the casing to create an exit opening for the tire valve.
Step 7: Assemble the Magstrike casing... and its done!
Add-on Step: To fully automate the air compressor system, install an automatic "cut-off" switch to the air compressor's electrical circuit.
I used a "push-to-off" switch which can be sourced from electrical parts supply stores. When the air bladder fills up and expands to a certain size, its OPV plastic assembly will press onto the switch, thereby switching off the air compressor. When the Magstrike is fired and the air bladder decreases in size, the switch will then be released and the air compressor will resume pumping air. This system regulates the air compressor to automatically pump air only when required.
Ammo Clip Management
With all that continuous supply of air pressure, the Magstrike will now need ALOT of clips.
Magstrike clips are much larger than N-Strike clips though... so how to carry them efficiently?
To solve that issue, i customised an Ammo Clip Belt System which consists of a thick nylon tactical belt with adjustable "dump" pouches that fit the Magstrike clips.
I'm not keen on the idea of tethering cables or hoses from waist pouches or backpacks to blasters, i've found that method ungainly and too restrictive. Loose cables tend to get tangled up easily, especially when quick response and fast movement is required during games.
So i customised an Air Compressor System Harness to mount the entire system onto the Magstrike itself. Therefore, a Magstrike with the air compressor system can now become a completely stand-alone unit, which offers the best combination of flexibility and mobility.
Overall, the entire air compressor system (incl. battery) adds around 1.3kg to the Magstrike. It is abit heavier to carry, but i managed to adjust the weight distribution for equal weight balance between both harness pouches, so the blaster can still be held and fired comfortably.
But even though its air bladder can be modded to hold more air volume to fire more clips at a time, there is still a limit to that function, not to mention all the physical effort required to manually pump it up!
The solution = Air Compressor Mod!
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
Lets begin...
Air Compressor Mod
Step 1: Obtain Pressure-rated Air Hoses, Air Hose Couplers and Tire Valves. In the photo below, i've displayed the various components that can be used.
Tire valves can be sourced from car workshops or garages.
Lets begin...
Air Compressor Mod
Step 1: Obtain Pressure-rated Air Hoses, Air Hose Couplers and Tire Valves. In the photo below, i've displayed the various components that can be used.
Tire valves can be sourced from car workshops or garages.
The transparent pressure-rated air hoses are 6mm OD / 4mm ID in dimension, exact match for the original Magstrike air hoses.
I usually use 2 types of air hose couplers for my mods, the transparent ones are nylon barbed tee or splicer air hose couplers, these will require additional clamping or epoxy glue to secure them to the air hoses.
The black-coloured air hose couplers are special tee or splicer air hose couplers that feature a quick-release system. Just insert the air hose in to engage the automatic internal clamp and air seal. To detach, just press the blue plastic collar to release it.
I usually use 2 types of air hose couplers for my mods, the transparent ones are nylon barbed tee or splicer air hose couplers, these will require additional clamping or epoxy glue to secure them to the air hoses.
The black-coloured air hose couplers are special tee or splicer air hose couplers that feature a quick-release system. Just insert the air hose in to engage the automatic internal clamp and air seal. To detach, just press the blue plastic collar to release it.
Pressure-rated air hoses and couplers can be sourced from pneumatic equipment manufacturers and suppliers.
In this mod, i'll be using the quick-release air hose couplers so that the system can be modular.
Step 2: Obtain a Portable Car Tire Air Compressor, a 12V Sealed Rechargable Battery, a 12V Plug Adaptor and a set of Electrical Cables.
Portable car tire air compressors can be sourced from car workshops or garages.
The 12V sealed rechargable battery, 12V plug adaptor and electrical cables can be sourced from electronics or hardware stores.
Step 3: Open up the Magstrike. Make sure it is a fully working unit without any air leaks.
DO NOT remove or plug the over-pressure valve (OPV).
If the OPV has been disabled, DO NOT perform this mod until its enabled or properly repaired.
When the Magstrike is connected to an air compressor, the OPV will act as a constant safe-guard to prevent over inflation (and resulting rupturing) of the air bladder system by releasing excess air pressure, it has to be functioning properly to avoid damage to the blaster (or user).
Step 4: Cut the air hose between the air pump and air bladder system. Remove the original air pump.
Step 5: Connect the air hose and quick-release splicer air hose coupler.
Step 6: Attach the air hose to the tire valve using 2-part epoxy glue, make sure the glue fills all the gaps but yet does not seep into the connection to ensure an unrestricted air-flow.
In my example, i used a smaller section of air hose connected to the tire valve, for modular design, and connected it to another quick-release splicer air hose coupler.
Connect the tire valve to the air compressor, which is in turn linked up to the 12V battery.
Test it out to check that everything is working properly, the air bladder should fill up and stay filled for an extended period of time, any decrease in pressure will indicate a leak somewhere in the system.
For those interested to know, the air compressor i use has an in-built pressure gauge, so i can track that the air bladder at full air volume (without the white retaining shell and after the OPV activates) is operating at around 50-60 PSI.
Alternative Step: The air compressor system can also retain the original air pump. Just use a tee air pressure hose coupler instead to connect the air bladder, air pump and tire valve.
Note that with this alternative method, due to the limited space between the air bladder and air pump, the air pump may require some additional adjustments in positioning within the casing, including some trimming of the casing to create an exit opening for the tire valve.
Step 7: Assemble the Magstrike casing... and its done!
Add-on Step: To fully automate the air compressor system, install an automatic "cut-off" switch to the air compressor's electrical circuit.
I used a "push-to-off" switch which can be sourced from electrical parts supply stores. When the air bladder fills up and expands to a certain size, its OPV plastic assembly will press onto the switch, thereby switching off the air compressor. When the Magstrike is fired and the air bladder decreases in size, the switch will then be released and the air compressor will resume pumping air. This system regulates the air compressor to automatically pump air only when required.
Ammo Clip Management
With all that continuous supply of air pressure, the Magstrike will now need ALOT of clips.
Magstrike clips are much larger than N-Strike clips though... so how to carry them efficiently?
To solve that issue, i customised an Ammo Clip Belt System which consists of a thick nylon tactical belt with adjustable "dump" pouches that fit the Magstrike clips.
Harness System
I'm not keen on the idea of tethering cables or hoses from waist pouches or backpacks to blasters, i've found that method ungainly and too restrictive. Loose cables tend to get tangled up easily, especially when quick response and fast movement is required during games.
So i customised an Air Compressor System Harness to mount the entire system onto the Magstrike itself. Therefore, a Magstrike with the air compressor system can now become a completely stand-alone unit, which offers the best combination of flexibility and mobility.
Overall, the entire air compressor system (incl. battery) adds around 1.3kg to the Magstrike. It is abit heavier to carry, but i managed to adjust the weight distribution for equal weight balance between both harness pouches, so the blaster can still be held and fired comfortably.
Ready to go!
Test Fire & Demo Video
Yeah, i know... the air compressor is quite a noisy piece of equipment! :)
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