For a detailed review of the Nerf Elite Retaliator, click Here.
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Disassembled
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Direct Plunger Internals
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Direct Plunger Parts
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Internals Guide!
This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator.
For a detailed review of the Nerf Elite Retaliator, click Here.
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Disassembled
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Direct Plunger Internals
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Direct Plunger Parts
For a detailed review of the Nerf Elite Retaliator, click Here.
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Disassembled
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Direct Plunger Internals
Nerf N-Strike Elite Retaliator - Direct Plunger Parts
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SG Nerf, how did you remove the plunger rod from the plunger? my retaliator's plunger rod is hard to take out...
ReplyDeleteDarkSonarch,
DeleteJust pull it out at an angle, needs some effort but it can be removed from the plunger tube quite easily.
Ummm my plunger rod broke...thanks for the tip dummy
DeleteThen you're an idiot. If you meet resistance, then STOP! In my entire time modding Nerf, I have never had a blaster or piece break.
Deleteiv heard that there is a elite barricade coming out. my question is how the elite barricade can get better ranges if most likely the voltage is the same because the shape of the elite barricade looks exactly the same as a regular barricade?
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteYou can check out a review of it at NerfHaven, someone in the UK already got hold of a set:
http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22878
thanks!!!
Deletesgnerf is amazon.com in usd or sgd and can i trust it?
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteAmazon.com prices are listed in $USD.
Lots of people worldwide shop online at Amazon, many of my blasters are ordered from there too. :)
I did this dang mod and instead of it shooting farther it doesn't even shoot and I cant get the thing to cock it back
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteSomething is mis-aligned inside your blaster, check it again.
You can also remove the bolt locks, that will solve the priming issues.
I just got this gun, but the slide stopped going forward all the way... I know it's the back part of the orange sled thing because that springy thing pops up too far once it's been primed, but I don't know why... any ideas?
ReplyDeleteHeath,
DeleteMost likely the dart blocker paddle mechanism is mis-aligned or stuck. Open up the casing, then check the mechanisms to find the issue and troubleshoot it.
Alternatively, just exchange it at the store for a new working unit, less hassle. :)
About "that springy thing" at the back of the orange sled. I seem to be having the same problem. It springs up and engages a part of the blue sidewall that appears to be made for that purpose. I can't figure out how it would "normally" slide past this point unless the springy thing would normally stay down because of some indent type feature ... now damaged. Did you ever resolve this issue?
DeleteBrian, having the same issue, did anyone ever resolve it for you?
Deleteanyone have a fix yet?
DeleteI removed the 'springy thingy'. Removed the 2 tiny screws and took the piece out. Put it back together without it and now it works great!
DeleteWhat is the spring strength of the retaliator vs recon and rampage vs raider
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteFrom tests so far, they all seem to be of similar stock spring loads, around 2.5-3kg load.
How similar are the shells internally between the Recon and Retaliator? In other words, if you had a Recon you like (the color, etc.) could you simply swap the internals? Or did they modify some of the mounting points, reinforcement ribs, etc?
ReplyDeleteMarquis de Zod,
DeleteYes, it's possible to swap the Retaliator internals into the Recon, just need abit of adjustments and tweaks to the internal shell casing and some custom parts.
Here is an excellent guide on how it's done by Solscud007 at the NerfHaven forum:
http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=22849
Is a Longstrike/Raider/Recon spring addition possible on the retaliator?
ReplyDeleteThanks.
Anonymous,
DeleteThe Longstrike/Raider/Recon spring size is designed for reverse plunger systems and is too wide, so they cannot be fitted into the Retaliator.
Btw if you are keen, i have aftermarket 8kg load Elite Retaliator/Rampage springs available for purchase at my Retaliator Mod Guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2012/07/nerf-n-strike-elite-retaliator-mod-guide.html
I cant seem to open my retaliator after I take the screws out. It seems to get on something near the front of the gun between the barrel and the safety door.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteMove the priming cover backwards slightly and you will see more casing screws that need to be removed too.
Which is the bolt sled I have never seen one before I do not know which one it is.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteThe bolt sled is the large plastic part which looks like a pair of connected L-shape brackets and it is secured to the bolt (which is where the foam dart is chambered in).
It looks like a sled, hence commonly known as the "bolt sled".
Is there anything other than the two screws along the top holding the slide together? Mine won't come apart.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteThere are more machine screws on the casing behind the priming slide handle, you have to pull it back slightly to uncover them for removal.
Before cocking my Retaliator there feels as though something is stopping me from pulling it back. Once I get it past that point it slides back easily, but I'd prefer I smooth sliding prime.
ReplyDeleteIs this standard and something I can mod out or am I better off returning it and getting another?
Anonymous,
DeleteThe priming action is supposed to be smooth.
Sounds like the bolt locks in your unit are either faulty or mis-aligned. You could open up the casing and try to fix it (or just remove the bolt lock parts).
If you can, it'll be easier to just exchange it at the store for a new working unit (save all the hassle).
Much obliged, SG Nerf.
DeleteRemoved the mag lock and the one next to it cant remember the name and now i cant get the bolt to pull back now ive closed up the case on my retaliator any ideas why
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteMake sure you have installed the rest of the parts back properly, take particular note of the fit between the priming slide and the bolt sled, they might both be off-alignment and that would cause it to jam.
If your bolt lock is still intact (and not fixed back properly), it might also be causing the jams, check that too.
My bolt sled won't slide forward AT ALL. I have seen dart jams before, and this is not a dart jam.
ReplyDeleteTHE BEST THING TO DO IS TO TAKE OFF THE GREY PEICE IN THE BACK WERE THE STOCK GOES. THE SPRING WILL PROBABLE POP OUT AT YOU. IT WILL RELEASE THE TENSION AND IT SHOULD SLID. BUT TO PUT THE PEICE BACK ON YOU HAVE TO COMPRESS THE SPRING BECAUSE IT IS TO LONG OR THE PLUNGER. PUT THE SPRING COMPLETLY INSIDE THE BLUE PART OF THE GUN AND IT SHOULD WORK PERFECTALY AGAIN.
DeleteI have been trying to remove the casing but how exactly do I do it? The slide won't come off
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteMake sure you remove all the machine screws, then pull apart the slide handle covers, then it'll be easier to open the casing.
My retaliator seems to be jammed for ever the slide moves half way forward and stops I tried taking the blaster apart but I can not reach the screws under the slide please tell me what to do
ReplyDeleteRitchie,
DeleteLooks like you'll have to pry apart the slide handle to access the screw port... or alternatively, just exchange it at the store for a new working unit.
I don't want to take a risk by plying the blaster apart and the problem is I live in India and the customer service is not so good and nerf is imported and marketed by funskool.I would also like to askyou u why the slide is not going completely forward and is there any way ican try solving it from outside
DeleteRitchie,
DeleteMost likely one or more of the parts inside the blaster is mis-aligned or damaged, or something might be stuck inside (ie. part of a foam dart, loose plastic piece etc), could be one of many reasons.
I can't think of any other option if the slide handle is jammed though, the only way is to somehow unjam it by force, or else the screw port can't be accessed and you can't open up the casing to fix it.
i cant close the gun up it just doesnt wont to snap in place
ReplyDeletethere is a very tiny spring remaining?
ReplyDeleteHow the beck do you get the Retaliator apart in the first place? I've taken out all the screws & can gently prize most of the gun apart, except from the very top by the access panel which is holding the gun together. How do I get it apart!? Please help, I've spent hours looking for videos etc & nothing explains the simplest bit.. Pulling it apart!
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeletePull back the top priming handle and there should be the last machine screw to remove there... then you can open the casing. :)
My bolt won't slide
ReplyDeleteI am attempting to reassemble my Retaliator after doing some painting, and everything fits back into it... except for one piece, a little black piece that clearly is meant to go on the main spring. However, the casing will not close with the piece in place.
ReplyDeleteThe piece in question is a black plastic piece that is vaguely rectangular, has three notches on either long side, and comes up into a cylindrical part on the front, that fits into the main spring to create the tension. There is literally NOWHERE on the internet that tells you how to properly reassemble this gun... Can you help?
Tyler,
DeleteThat sounds like the black piece that is supposed to be set at the bottom of the handle of the blaster, the sunken cylindrical part faces into the handle.
Look at the base of the blaster handle in my first photo.
Its meant to allow the handle to store an extra foam dart.
One easy thing I did was replace the o-rings that came with it to Slightly bigger ones. Gives a lot better seal :)
ReplyDeleteNot sure if my previous post made it on, so I'm posting again. I couldn't get the slide to move all the way forward. I disassembled the blaster, after some work, and noticed that the small spring-loaded triangle at the end of the bolt slide was locking the slide open. Any ideas as to why this gets caught on the blue plastic ledge under the plunger tube?
ReplyDeleteTIA
Unknown,
DeleteThats the bolt lock system, its part of the blaster design and is meant as a safety feature, to prevent the blaster from firing when the priming handle and bolt are in pulled-back position (without the bolt lock, imagine if you are using your fingers to unjam a stuck foam dart in the clip chamber and accidentally pull the trigger, the whole bolt will fly forward and cause injury).
You can check out how to remove it in my mod guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.sg/2012/07/nerf-n-strike-elite-retaliator-mod-guide.html
Some small part came out from near the button and my retalliator is now not working
ReplyDeletemy retaliator wont shoot as far as before
ReplyDeletethe plastic ring on the plunge tube that holdes the rubber o ring broke off how do i fix it
ReplyDeleteMy trigger doesn't touch anything what can I do?
ReplyDeleteThanks
Can you list the order of placing the parts back in when reassembling the blaster?
ReplyDeleteI tried to mod my retaliator, but now my bolt wont catch. Yes i replaced the catch spring
ReplyDeleteI have a problem wit my Retaliator, the loading door is broken. Can anyone help me to fix or suggest where to find a spare part?
ReplyDeleteThanks.