Nerf Longstrike CS-6 - Disassembled
Nerf Longstrike CS-6 - Close-up of Internals
Nerf Longstrike CS-6 - Internals Comparison with Recon CS-6
(Top: Longstrike / Bottom: Recon)
Nerf Longstrike CS-6 - Plunger and Spring Comparison with Recon CS-6
(Top: Longstrike / Bottom: Recon)
I see some one shaving down the stock catches to make it more packable. Also, in my mind I see a blaster paint job with this.
ReplyDeleteI added this (and more of your mods) to my Nerf mod directory at http://nerfguns.org/category/nerf-gun-mods
ReplyDeleteThanks for the great work!
Thanks
ReplyDeleteCould you do a range test with Longstrike, recon, and longshot?
ReplyDeleteIn stock version, the Longstrike, Recon and Longshot all have around the similiar box advertised range, around 25-30ft (maybe 35ft if fired at a higher angle).
ReplyDeleteOf course, modded ranges are a whole different set of measurements. :)
the back spring support, and mabye the spring are the only internal parts that are different, from what I can see :O
ReplyDeleteoh yeah and the slide blocker is further foward.
ReplyDeleteso, what's better? this or the longshot? according to range
ReplyDeleteIn stock version, both blasters have similiar range.
ReplyDeleteBut after modding, the Longshot will naturally have longer range and faster dart velocity due to it's larger direct plunger system, compared to the Longstrike's smaller reverse plunger system.
any solutions on how to prevent the breaking of the bolt sled? if gun is modded
ReplyDeleteSame as with the Longshot, Raider and Recon, the main stress points are at the L-shaped arms on the bolt sled.
ReplyDeleteTo help prevent breakages after modding, you can reinforce it with additional material to strengthen those sections.
A method that i've successfully tested is to use strong 2mm diameter steel rods bent to shape , drilled and epoxy glued to the sections at the stress points.
hey guys, look at the bolt sled of the longstrike, it is improved by thickening so it lessens the chance of breaking,, can the sled be transfered to the longshot?
ReplyDeleteThe Longstrike bolt sled is configured differently than the Longshot bolt sled, so it'll not be compatible.
ReplyDeleteIs the barrel in the main unit smooth or ridged? By ridged I mean like the Recon barrel extension. Smooth is better.
ReplyDeleteYes, the Longstrike's main unit barrel and the extension barrel are both ridged internally, just like in the Longshot, Raider and Recon.
ReplyDeletedoes the extension barrel have wider space than the recon and longshot's extension barrel
ReplyDeleteYup, the Longstrike's extension barrel has a wider internal barrel diameter than the Longshot and Recon extension barrels.
ReplyDeleteWould You recommend this as a good starter wep for new people?
ReplyDeleteYup, it can be a suitable starter blaster. It's relatively easy to operate and it's compatible with parts and accessories from other N-Strike blasters too. :)
ReplyDeleteOne potential problem post modding i can see with this is the plunger? Is the plastic any thicker?
ReplyDeleteAs we all know the shonky reliability of the recons once its modded...this looks much the same?
From my observations when modding the Longstrikes, its plunger plastic looks pretty much the same as in the Recon or Raider, so i guess the same considerations with regards to plastic durability will need to be taken into account when modding the Longstrike.
ReplyDeleteI hate to say it, but I'm disappointed that Nerf decided to go with the reverse plunger design. I really liked the look of the Longstrike, but seeing now that it has the same inefficient plunger design that the Recon had, it doesn't look like I'll be picking one up.
ReplyDeleteHowever, it could have potential as a clipped short range blaster. From the awesome pictures that you provided it looks like it shouldn't be too difficult to brass up the breech and barrel.
Two questions.
The distance from the clip housing to the front of the gun body looks shorter than the Longshot. Considering this, do you think it would be more difficult to create a CaptainSlug-type shotgun grip?
Also, how study is the stock? Does it hold firm on your shoulder, or is it more like the Recon stock?
Yup, modding a Longstrike is pretty much the same as modding a Recon.
ReplyDeleteThe distance from the clip to the front of the main unit is indeed much shorter than the Longshot. The space is only one adult palm width, therefore modding a shotgun grip on it would require some new ideas or workarounds.
The Longstrike shoulder stock is very sturdy and secure, it feels like a solid integrated part of the main unit. The stock is attached to the main unit via 2 snap-clamp fittings and once its installed, cannot be detached (unless the casing is opened). :)
is the long shot spring better than d long strikes
ReplyDeleteThe Longshot stock spring is longer and has a slightly wider diameter than the Longstrike's stock spring (which is the same as the Recon, Raider and Deploy stock springs).
ReplyDeleteAll the stock springs have around the same spring rate.
Hey there! ...i just got my longstrike off amazon & im really kind of disappointed with its range, so im going to attempt a mod for the first time.
ReplyDelete...im going to try and remove the air restrictor and put some pvc in the deadspace of the spring housing to increase the spring tension ...im just curious, everyones telling me i need to pad the plunger after AR removal to prevent rapid wear and tear ...how and with what should i go about dong that?
mrjacypatti,
ReplyDeleteYes, reverse plungers definitely have to be padded after ARs are removed because of the much higher direct impact that will occur between the bolt and the plunger base. Over time, stress of the impacts tend to break the plunger.
Check my Recon Mod Guide on how to install padding into the plunger (Longstrikes have almost the same internals as Recons):
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html
Thank you, that was actually incredibly helpful... i havent been able to find many mod tutorials for the longstrike yet, but between the internals guide and the videos out there on recon modding, i should be able to manage.
ReplyDelete...if you dont mind, one last question regarding plunger padding (since i dont have the blaster disassembled yet, its hard to visualize from the pics) ...is the padding going on the rear of the bolt that goes into the bolt sleeve? or inside the bolt sleeve itself at the bottom of the tube?
i'll prob realize how dumb this question is once i break the gun down, but right now it seems that either way could cushion the impact and prevent the bolt from cracking through.
MrJacyPatti,
ReplyDeleteNo worries, once you disassemble the Longstrike it'll all become clear.
In my examples, the padding is placed inside the plunger at its base, not at the bolt. The base of the plunger is where the breakages usually happen.
Yes, you could place padding at the bolt too but then you'd need to cut a hole to let air through, workable but imho its much simpler to just pad the plunger base instead. :)
If I only do the AR removal mod, do i still need to pad the lunger? Also, do the anti slip pads that you posted affect how the clip gets put in or taken out?
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI'm a noob and the lonstrike is my first Nerf.
But if i want to increase the spring rate, where can i get this springs in Singapore?
Thanks
Jonathan,
ReplyDeleteYes, once the AR removal mod is done to any reverse plunger blaster, there is no more safety air cushion for the plunger. The plunger base will experience direct impact with the bolt, therefore padding the plunger base must be done to avoid breakage.
Make sure you use the rubber/foam pads which are not too thick and can be compressed to be very thin, so that the bolt can be pulled back far enough for clips to be loaded and unloaded properly. Its all a matter of testing and calibrating.
J'nky,
ReplyDeleteCheck the NerfSG forum, you can find tried and tested aftermarket springs that fit the various blasters there, along with advice on how to setup and maintain modded blasters. :)
Hi, I removed the AR in the LongStrike but the gun sounded louder. And this doesn't sound very assuring. So is this normal?
ReplyDeleteBesides, the distance seems to decrease a bit.
First time modding. :(
inferno0748,
ReplyDeleteYes, without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on bolt impact.
This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger and bolt casing, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impact on the bolt (hence the loud cracking sound during firing), many users of modded reverse plunger blaster have experienced bolts eventually punching a hole out of the back of the plungers!
If you read my Raider and Recon Mod guides, i emphasise the need to put padding at the base of the plunger to help absorb the impact.
Read those Mod guides to see examples of how to pad the plunger, Raiders and Recons have similiar plunger setup to Longstrikes.
If your range decreased after you modded your blaster, it probably means the o-ring air seal in the plunger was somehow affected while you were modding it. Re-lubricate the o-ring with good quality synthetic grease, or replace a new o-ring.
Hi SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteThanks for your explanation. I have added 1 (similar brand) padding to the plunger but there is still the cracking sound. So can I assume the cracking sound is normal with or without the padding?
Btw, the bolt seems to slip through the plunger easily. So is it confirm that the o-ring is spoiled? If so, where can I get a replacement?
inferno0748,
ReplyDeleteYes, with padding added into the plunger, although the impact sound might be dampened slightly, it will still be louder than compared to when the AR was intact.
For replacement o-rings, check the NerfSG forum trading section. There are members there with suitable sized o-rings avaliable for sale.
I'm wondering when N-Strike will make a blaster that is not a clip system. Like a barrel blaster like the maverick or even just another plain single shot.
ReplyDeleteI noticed there is an aluminum plunger made by Black Tactical for the Recon. I was wondering if the aluminum plunger could be used for the Longstrike.My main question is, is the Longstrike's plunger interchangable with the Recons?
ReplyDeleteKruz,
ReplyDeleteReportedly its possible, check with the guys at Black Tactical, they can advise further on how to get it to fit in a Longstrike.
hey, i have a recon and a raider. btw, both of them are screwed
ReplyDeletemy recon, 1 of the screws is worn off and cant be unscrewed by a screwdriver, the inside, something came off because i dry fired it ( and it exploded inside) hence, it cannot shoot now. i cannot even unscrew it to fix the inside what can i do?
my raider, the bolt is melted and i guess it cant work because when i fixed it back, it cannot fire. so is the problem because the bolt is melted (slightly only) or is it because i re-assembled it incorrectly. i did not use videos to reassemble, just tried. can u give me a link to how to re-assemble the raider? i cannot find it on youtube.and should i destroy the recon to use the bolt for the raider? i think it is the best option because the raider's bolt is melted =.=
Ernest,
ReplyDeleteLooks like your Recon has a stripped screw head. I guess you'll have to find a way to cut open the stuck screw. Once its open then you can properly check the damaged areas.
As for your Raider, check the bolt and see if there are any areas that may leak air. If there are gaps or cracks, patch it with some gap-filling epoxy glue.
Also make sure you assemble the Raider back properly, all the guides and springs are in place, keep testing it, there are some parts that if not aligned properly will jam the mechanism.
any idea how to strip the screw head?
ReplyDeleteand for the raider, the trigger cannot be pushed back no matter how hard i push it backwards.
Ernest,
ReplyDeleteMake sure your screwdriver is not dulled in the first place, try wedging a flat rubber band between the stripped screw head and screwdriver, the rubber acts to fill the space of the stripped areas.
If that doesn't work, then you could use a screw extractor tool (can get from most hardware stores) which "bite" into the screw head to remove it.
Or use a suitable sized power drill bit to just drill out the screw.
If your Raider trigger can't be pulled back, then its probably because the trigger mechanism is not aligned properly or something is blocking it, you'll have to open the casing to find out the issue and solve it.
Hey SG Nerf!
ReplyDeleteI'm also new to modding Nerf guns and really appreciate your tutorials for the Longshot and Recon mods.
Recently I purchased the Longstrike with intentions of increasing the distances, but i'm hesitant to start the modding process due to the unfamiliar internals...
above you compare parts of the Longstrike to the Recon, are the parts so similar that I can just follow the Recon guide for maximized distance? And if not, could you make a guide for the Longstrike?
okay thanks . i'll try it out.
ReplyDeleteZerokills479,
ReplyDeleteYes, the Longstrike and Recon have very similiar internal parts and component layout.
You can follow my Recon Mod Guide as a reference to mod your Longstrike. :)
Thanks SG Nerf!
ReplyDeleteI did the modification and am extremely happy with the results! it shoots about 3 to 4 times harder.
Now for the paint job... would it be unwise to paint the outside shell of the gun while all the internal parts are still inside? Do you think it was cause problems?
Yo i modded and put the gun back together but it wont cock
ReplyDeleteplease help
Thank you
Zerokills479,
ReplyDeleteGlad to hear that your Longstrike mod was successful! :)
As for re-painting your blaster, it would be best to take it apart to spray the casing sections individually, this helps to ensure clean and neat paintwork, and also helps prevent paint from getting into internal parts and causing jams.
Sean,
ReplyDeleteOpen up your Longstrike again and check the internal parts and guides.
Most likely a component is either not installed or aligned properly. Make sure all the small internal springs are positioned properly too.
Thanks Sg i figured it out mispositioned piece, but now it wont fire, it does but literraly 1 foot lol
ReplyDeletePlease Help
Thanks
Sean
Sean,
ReplyDeleteOpen it up again and check. Another component has either been mis-aligned or not installed properly.
First off, the amount of comments you have replied to in this post alone makes you worthy of several packets of yummy cookies. Well done :)
ReplyDeleteAnyway, I saw this Longstrike mod a few days ago over at nerfhaven: http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18835
It uses a conical compression spring to make an "internal powerstock" for the Longstrike, which I think is a brilliant idea.
Basically what I'm saying is that when/if you do a mod write up on this blaster, that you should try using a similar internal powerstock method. I would try it myself, but Longstrikes aren't going to be be coming to the UK anytime soon *sad*
burntcustard,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the kind comments!
Yup, i've tested the internal powerstock mod for the Longstrike too. Previously i've also tested out external powerstock mods on the Recon, using pvc sections to encase the additional spring.
I've tried using both normal and conical aftermarket springs too. The conical versions are useful when compression space is limited as they can compress abit flatter than normal springs.
I've found that although such powerstock mods do help increase the speed and force of reverse plunger, the resulting range increase tends to be very minimal.
Imho, i guess the reverse plunger is still too limited in size to provide the required air volume needed for actual noticeable gains from the powerstock mods.
how do you take off the little cocker thingys?
ReplyDeleteI cant open my gun cause they wont come off.
Sg your doing an amazing job but i looked at the guide and everything seems to be in place perfectly yet it wont fully fire (bullet wont fly out of gun past 1 foot
ReplyDeleteThanks for everything =)!!
Sean
Chriz,
ReplyDeleteTo remove the orange priming handle, just take a large flat head screwdriver, wedge it in between the handle and blaster casing (put a layer of cloth in-between to help prevent scratches to the casing), then carefully pry it apart.
Sean,
ReplyDeleteTry this test, prime your blaster, then slot a streamline dart manually into the bolt (don't use the clip), then fire it.
Does it fire properly?
If it doesn't fire properly, then it might be a problem with your plunger o-ring seal or there may even be a crack in the plunger or bolt, check it to make sure there is a proper air seal throughout.
If it does fire properly, then you might have a problem with the chambering of the dart instead, check the dart blocker plate (the part in front of the bolt that moves up and down when you prime the blasters), it may not be pushing the dart into the bolt properly. Check that the spring controlling its up and down movement is installed properly.
Ran into a problem after modding. It's fine when I cock the bolt back but I can't cock forward. It goes only halfway before locking into the middle spot. I kept checking all the springs and the problem seems to be the little grey box with the two screws. The spring pops up when it's not suppose to. Any help would be appreciated.
ReplyDeleteAlex,
ReplyDeleteThat looks like the safety catch. Maybe you can try removing it and see if it solves your blaster issue.
I have heard you can somehow take the bipod from the longshot and put it on the longstrike, an example would be the video on youtube by loc645:
ReplyDelete'longstrike with bipod part 2.wmv'
, do you know how they did this, and if so could you somehow explain it.
ksmuland,
ReplyDeleteI guess its possible, the Longshot's bipod legs are simply secured to its casing by 2 small screws for each leg.
So you'll just need to find a good spot on the Longstrike casing to drill small holes and simply bolt the bipod legs on.
i need help putting back together.
ReplyDeleteWhat's better looking? The easier to mod Longshot or Longstrike
ReplyDeleteHarvey,
ReplyDeleteThe question of which blaster looks better will depend on individual perception, there are equal number of fans for both blaster designs. :)
Both take around the same effort to mod, but the Longshot's larger direct plunger system produces much greater power and range improvements compared to the Longstrike's smaller reverse plunger system.
Harvey, go for the longshot. You'll be a happier person for it. I don't know what your background is in terms of modding experience, ability to work with your hands or available tools, but you might check out a couple of other sites that I frequent when doing mods:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.nerfhaven.com
http://www.nerfhq.com
The mods listed on this forum are great for beginners, but if you're looking for more in-depth write ups with equipment lists and advice, hit up those sites. They have some great mods to get the very best out of your longshot.
- WaywardFerret
how do you take out the thing you pull???
ReplyDeleteEaster Cheif,
ReplyDeleteTo remove the orange priming handle, just take a large flat head screwdriver, wedge it in between the handle and blaster casing (put a layer of cloth in-between to help prevent scratches to the casing), then carefully pry it apart.
thank you so so much!!!!!!
ReplyDeletenow im able to mod it!!!!!!!
THANK YOU
Now I have a bigger problem...
ReplyDeleteHow to Put It Together???
Easter Cheif,
ReplyDeleteJust reassemble it part by part, all the components fit logically.
umm... are the mods you do on the recon exactly the same as on the longstrike?
ReplyDeleteOscar,
ReplyDeleteYes, the modding procedures are pretty much the same for the Recon, Longstrike, Raider and Deploy (and most likely for upcoming blasters with similiar reverse plunger layouts too). :)
Can you get some more close ups on the Long strikes internals like the front and maybe the screw areas.
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Easter Cheif
Easter Cheif,
ReplyDeleteSorry, i don't have any available Longstrikes with me at the moment, so i can't take anymore internal photos.
Perhaps you can check on other Nerf sites.
i put it all together but it cant fire!!!!!
ReplyDeleteHow do i fix this????
Easter Cheif,
ReplyDeleteOpen up the casing and check again, something is probably not positioned properly.
Observe how the parts move and re-adjust the internal components so that it works smoothly, its all part of learning how to troubleshoot your own blaster. :)
its fixed
ReplyDeletethks SG
I'm looking to replace the spring in my Longstrike, this was the closest place i could find to get some data on the spring:
ReplyDeleteWhat's the spring rate of the stock longstrike spring? (or whatever the measurement of this is called when shopping for one)
And what is the diameter of the spring? I read it was 20mm, just confirming this, thanks!
And a quick question, I'd rather not mess around with the AR, would just switching out the spring give the LongStrike more range?
hey sg nerf
ReplyDeleteis there a way to take the bolt off after you put it on. also i heard about a way where you use the claw end of a hammer so do you know if the works
thanks in advance for the answer
Corey Goldner,
ReplyDeleteThe spring load of the stock Longstrike spring is not listed anywhere, but from my rough estimations, its probably around 2-3kg approx. load to solid height (ie. the amount of weight it takes to fully compress it).
The diameter of the stock spring is around 28mm, you have to be very precise with the spring dimensions for reverse plunger blasters because there is very limited space within the such blasters to fit the springs.
It is always best to bring along the original stock spring to compare with any aftermarket springs that you plan to test.
If you just change the spring but don't remove the AR, the performance increase will be very limited, because the plunger to barrel air flow is still restricted.
playstationwiisixty,
ReplyDeleteTo remove the orange charging handle, just take a large flathead screwdriver, wedge it between the handle and casing (put a layer of cloth inbetween to prevent scratches), then apply steady strength to carefully pry it apart.
Thanks SG Nerf, I'll check it out. Now I gotta find a place in New York City that sells springs…
ReplyDeleteokay thanks it worked :)
ReplyDeletenow i can finally mod it
Okay, I modded my Longstrike by just putting a small hole in the AR, And stretching the spring slightly, and after putting the whole thing back together, the bolt doesn't lock into place anymore, it simply snaps back forward as soon as i pull it back, therefore nullifying any use. Pray tell, how the heck do i fix that?
ReplyDeleteDanny,
ReplyDeleteThe issue could be due to your stretched spring becoming mis-shapen and somehow blocking the plunger catch. Check that and see if you can solve it.
Imho, stretching springs is not an effective mod because it tends to cause catching problems and weakens the springs eventually.
I'd recommend you to use proper fitted aftermarket springs for your mods.
how do u open it up when the cocking mechanism is already on? i screwed up the internals... :S
ReplyDeletereuelckj,
ReplyDeleteSimply detach the charging handle before opening the casing.
Just use a large flat head screwdriver, wedge it between the charging handle and casing (put a layer of cloth inbetween to prevent scratches), then carefully pry it off.
So being my first Nerf gun I'm kinda scared to take it apart.
ReplyDeleteThe orange primer really worries me. I'm trying to remove it but as I start to pry, it just feels that something's gonna break because it seems to require quite a bit of force.
Is it supposed to be like this? Am I doing something wrong?
Furiousa,
ReplyDeleteWhen you pry apart the orange charging handle, it can seem like something is going to break, thats due to the strong grip of the handle catch on the charging rod... just steadily apply more force to wedge it apart, if you do it carefully, it should just pop off without any damage.
Could you possibly use this mod on the longstrike? http://tinyurl.com/35taz4h
ReplyDeleteYou say this is almost identical to the Recon, but it can't be exactly the same... Can it?
EMBGuy,
ReplyDeleteYes, that mod can be done on the Nerf Longstrike too.
I am having trouble removing the AR.
ReplyDeleteI bought this gun recently and this is my first time modding it. I replaced the spring already, but I can't seem to remove the Air Restrictor. May I know what are the ways to remove it? I do not have a drill.
Ng YX,
ReplyDeleteYou could try using long screwdrivers and a hammer, then carefully knock out the ARs through the bolt.
Does the longstrike's internals have any difference compared to the recon's? I heard it had some sort of air release valve plugged.
ReplyDeleteEdibleFungus342,
ReplyDeleteOther than some slight plunger design differences, the Longstrike and Recon internals are pretty much the same.
SgNerf,
ReplyDeleteIs ar removal, plunger padding spring replacement and stock removal the only mods? Im planning to use this blaster as stock power but are there any locks to be removed or mods that make the gun easier to use or maybe even cosmetic mods ( besides painting). Ill be open to any of those types of mods even power mods coz my friends want me to mod theirs.
Thanks again
Master,
ReplyDeleteWell, the mods you mentioned are the basic ones that are easy to do that can improve the blaster's performance.
The examples of more advanced mods are things like brass breech conversions, pistol minimization, LED priming indicators, dual blaster integrations etc. Those would require more custom work and materials to do.
Hmm the minimisation sounds interesting. Ill look into that
ReplyDeleteI've done this mod, but I'm my bolt loading mechanism is stuck. I can pull back on the loading mechanism, it locks, but I can only push forward about half way. I can only pull back on the mechanism again to release it. I've assembled the gun as close as I could based on the images. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should focus my attention to fix this problem? Thanks a bunch!
ReplyDeletelymanathome,
ReplyDeleteCheck the alignment of the plunger and the position of the parts linking to the plunger and trigger mechanism.
To test if it can work properly, remove the spring and try moving the bolt assembly forwards and backwards, it should be able to operate smoothly.
Any jams at this point will need to be tracked and solved.
Tyvm, SG! I will check it out!
ReplyDeleteThe Longstrike CS-6 is a very good comparison to the Longshot CS-6 because of the cocking mechanism and also how it has a deattachable extension barrel especially how the name is.
ReplyDeleteWhat are the spring size dimension appropriate for a stronger yet suitable one if I want to get a new one from home depot? I don't want it to be too long or too strong or just as weak as the stock spring.
ReplyDeleteTed,
ReplyDeleteOpen up the blaster casing, remove the stock spring and measure it to get the proper dimensions, then search for aftermarket springs with similar dimensions that have higher spring loads.
Or simply bring along your stock spring and plunger to the stores to do more accurate comparisons and fittings.
Hey Nerf SG I wonder if there is anyway to mod the barrel to give the darts a tighter fit, it really reduces the range and accuracy.
ReplyDeleteBrandon Yeo,
ReplyDeleteYou could just install a suitable tube or pipe with narrower internal diameter, but that would reduce range even further due to the fact that foam darts already start losing power and speed once it exits the bolt. A tighter barrel would basically slow it down even more.
Thats why stock blasters get better range without their front barrel attachments.
The only way a tighter barrel can increase power and speed is if it is part of a air-tight breech system, where the connection from the breech to the barrel is fully air-tight so that the foam dart maintains full acceleration all the way through via the pressurised air from the spring plunger.
Here is a Mod Guide example of an air-tight breech system:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/03/nerf-longshot-brass-breech-mod-guide.html
Hi, I've already assembled my Longstrike. Can I open it up without making too much damage?
ReplyDeleteErik,
ReplyDeleteAs mentioned many times in the previous comments, you just need to remove the orange priming handle and then remove the screws to disassemble the Longstrike.
To detach the orange priming handle, just use a large flat head screwdriver, wedge it between the priming handle and casing (put a layer of cloth in between to prevent scratches), then pry them apart. If done properly, after re-assembly, the blaster will still operate without any issues.
omg
ReplyDeleteGreat! What about the button that releases the clip?
ReplyDeleteErik,
ReplyDeleteThe clip release button? That's just attached to the casing with a screw, you need that part intact to keep the clip in place.
Will it come apart inside the gun when I pull the thing apart? After all, there is a button on each side of the Longstrike and they look like they're connected.
ReplyDeleteErik,
ReplyDeleteWell, just disassemble and reassemble the casing properly and the components should still align properly.
Hey SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteFirst off, I love your blog! It's great to see reviews on guns I'm thinking of buying. But I'm kind of new to the modding buisiness. Could you possibly point out to me where the air restrictor is on the Longstrike? Thanks!
Daniel,
ReplyDeleteThe air restrictors of reverse plunger based N-Strike blasters (ie. Recon, Raider, Longstrike, Deploy, Alpha Trooper etc) are all in the same section in the middle of the bolt.
You can see more photos of that section of the bolt in my Nerf Recon Mod Guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html
How can I get the pump off of the gun so I can open it up?
ReplyDeleteSuperShadowPikachu,
ReplyDeleteTo detach the orange priming handle, just use a large flat head screwdriver, wedge it between the priming handle and casing (put a layer of cloth in between to prevent scratches), then use strength to pry them apart.
Wouldn't prying it break the priming handle?
ReplyDeleteSuperShadowPikachu,
ReplyDeleteNope, if done properly, that method will not break the priming handle.
I can't seem to open it.
ReplyDeleteIs there a way to paint it without opening it?
SuperShadowPikachu,
ReplyDeleteI guess you could just paint it as it is, just that you'll need to spend more time masking adjoining parts during painting and making sure to also paint in the hidden areas or else it'll end up looking incomplete.
See I'm a bit of a retard and thought that the cocking handle went on and off easy so I was testing and put them together OFF the gun and now I can't get them apart and I can't use your method because it not on the gun... Any ideas???
ReplyDeletecooski_27,
ReplyDeleteLook at the inside of the orange priming handle, see 2 small black screws?
Just unscrew it and you will be able to open up the handle, then trim the plastic catch inside until you can detach the handle from the metal rod.
I can't find a skrew driver small enough and they're heaps tight!!
ReplyDeletecooski_27,
ReplyDeleteJust go to any hardware store and get a set of good quality precision screwdrivers.
how do you take off the orange priming handles? please use simple words for i am very new to nerfs and modding
ReplyDeleteSup, to put a bit more power into the longstrike i was thinking of putting an internal power stock into it. However i don't have it yet and wont have until christmas so can i ask when the plunger tube is primed back, how much space internally from the back of the plunger to the shell wall is there for a spring to compress?
ReplyDeleteMichael,
ReplyDeleteUse a large flat-head screwdriver, wedge it between the orange priming handle and casing (put a layer of cloth in between to prevent scratches), then apply strength to pry them apart.
sirhazza,
ReplyDeleteThere is around 2-3 inches of space from the back of the plunger to the casing.
can you make a power stock with no pvc and a maverick spring?
ReplyDeleteDeclan,
ReplyDeleteIts possible, you'll have to mod it in such a way as to fit in the maverick spring to also support the plunger properly.
can you put pvc pipe to make the spring more compressed?
ReplyDeleteHey there SG Nerf, I'm not sure if you've had this asked to you before, so if so, i'm sorry!! This is the first time I'm modding a longstrike and i wanted to know what the best way to make the strongest longstrike would be? I've already purchased an upgraded spring from you for my longstrike but i was wondering what else can i do to make sure i have the strongest longstrike possible? And if so, could you give a brief description as to how i would go about doing it. Thanks in advance!
ReplyDeleteChris,
ReplyDeleteYou could do that, just make sure the piece of PVC pipe does not interfere with the proper operation of the blaster.
Kim Zhu,
ReplyDeleteJust do the standard AR removal and aftermarket spring replacement mods.
But do note that the Longstrike is a reverse plunger blaster with very small plunger volume, so performance increases from modding are naturally very limited for this blaster.
hi. i wanna ask.. my longstrike have a problem after i changed to aftermarket spring.. i have to reload it 2 times.. the 1st 1 got stuck at the middle when i try to push it forward. then the 2nd one i have to use force reload until there is sound "click". so do you have sollution to make it just 1 time reload? is it i have to trim the internal or what? & if it is yes, what part?
ReplyDeletezul_263,
ReplyDeleteSeems like something in your blaster is not installed properly or mis-aligned, open up the casing and re-check again.
Maybe you can also check with the people you got the aftermarket spring from, perhaps they also have some solutions based on their particular springs dimensions.
can you post a mod (or video on youtube) that shows how to take stock off?
ReplyDeletetommydudeguy,
ReplyDeleteIts simple, just open up the Longstrike casing and you can just detach the shoulder stock from the 2 internal orange clips.
For anybody who is experienced denial because thier plunger broke BUILD YOUR OWN ---- I will be back with a write up in january!
ReplyDeleteHi, I just got a longstrike and am having trouble opening it. I've got the priming handles off and taken out all the screws, but something seems to be glued internally - any ideas?
ReplyDeleteuh what mods can be done for the longstrike? other than ar removal?
ReplyDeleteprodactor,
ReplyDeleteTo my knowledge, the casing is not glued together.
Check that there are no other screws still left in the casing.
Nisal,
ReplyDeleteYou can follow my Nerf Recon Mod Guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html
The Recon and Longstrike share similar internal components and layout.
SG Nerf, thanks for getting back to me. I've taken out all the screws that I can see around the outside. I've taken this pic which shows where I can see a part that is glued - http://www.flickr.com/photos/52791604@N00/5309102834/
ReplyDeleteI've tried prying it open but it seems stuck at that point.
Thanks
prodactor,
ReplyDeleteThats odd, i've seen many Longstrikes and so far all of them don't have internals glued to the casings. This is the first time i've heard of this.
I guess yours could be a unique unit or from a special production batch.
Anyways, looks like you'll just have to find a way to pry or somehow detach it apart without damaging the support structure.
Dear SGNerf,
ReplyDeleteWhen you said that the range of the Longstrike and the Recon are pretty much the same, will that be with barrel or without? I plan on getting one, and considering it's a sniper rifle, it should have the longest range in my arsenal. I already have a Recon, and I fear if I buy a Longstrike, it will be just like buying a Recon, with a different shell, and RM45 more expensive. And I DO NOT. STRICTLY DO NOT. Mod any of my NERF guns.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI cant seem to find any similar pads to pad the plunger, will felt furniture pads do or must it be rubber? I am from UK so if there are any ideal ones on internet I dont mind buying them
Can you do a mod guide on the longstrike?
ReplyDeleteif i am removing AR on the longstrike I have to apply padding right?
ReplyDeleteMusta,
ReplyDeleteThey are all around the same range (+/- a few ft), with the barrel, range is abit less... without barrel, abit further.
Honestly, the difference in range between all those blasters is only a few ft, not really significant.
The Longstrike might "look" like a sniper rifle but its just an external shell design. It has the same internals as a Recon, Raider or Deploy, that's why all their ranges are around the same.
So yes, if you get a Longstrike, its basically a Recon in a longer shell... and that's what most people buy it for, mainly for the design.
Mark,
ReplyDeleteIt can be any material, but best if the material is designed to absorb impacts (ie. bumper padding) and can compress totally flat easily.
You can also try using craft foam too, just cut to shape and attach.
Aidan,
ReplyDeleteThe Longstrike has the same internals as a Recon, so just refer to the Recon Mod Guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html
I didn't find it a point to post up a separate Longstrike mod guide, 'cos i'll just be repeating the exact same modding steps.
Aidan,
ReplyDeleteYes, if you remove the ARs from any blaster, it is highly recommended to attach soft padding to the plunger to help protect it against the higher impacts.
what happens if I broke a piece? Also is there somewhere you can buy nerf internals?
ReplyDeleteAidan,
ReplyDeleteYou'll have to source for spare parts from other Nerf blaster enthusiasts who might have some available, usually through Nerf forums or online sites like eBay.
How do i remove the corking orange thing from the shaft please tell me where to trim so that it is detachable
ReplyDeletemofokid95,
ReplyDeleteUse a large flat-head screwdriver, wedge it between the orange priming handle and casing (put a layer of cloth in between to prevent scratches), then apply strength to pry them apart.
After its detached, just open up the handle piece and trim the quad-section plastic struts to widen them slightly, as shown in the last step in this guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/09/nerf-longshot-mod-guide.html
I found that after I took the handle off the first time that it came off occasionally during Nerf battles. In my opinion, it is unnecessary and, indeed, undesirable, to trim.
ReplyDeleteErik,
ReplyDeleteYes, you have a point there. If the plastic catches in the handle are already blunt after being forced apart the first time it's detached, then trimming is no longer required.
I seem to be having the same issue as prodactor above. My Longstrike casing seems to be glued in the same place in the same manner.
ReplyDeleteI'm guessing this, along with the transition to reverse plunger designs was all a part of attempting to deter modders.
Do you have any suggestions as to how to get the adhesive off? I've tried prying, but I was using around the same force to get the bolt handle off, and I'm sure I'll break it if I try harder.
(I might try acetone, but I'm not sure if it will even work on this type of adhesive or if it will adversely affect the plastic. I really don't want to have a puddle of Longstrike goop...)
Andy,
ReplyDeleteHmmm... seems like certain batches of Longstrike have this odd glued-in component.
Well, i guess you could try glue remover solutions (i've spotted such solutions at some hardware store before), might work.
Does the pipe cutter method work for AR removal like with the Recon or do I have to resort to drilling it out?
ReplyDeleteDRaKe6900,
ReplyDeleteYes, the pipe cutter method can also be used for AR removal, the parts are similar in configuration.
Hey, here's a trick I just used on my too-loose priming handle: I took the handle (both parts) off, unscrewed the smaller end, and inside I used a slim piece of duct tape to pinch the prongs that hold the metal bar in a bit tighter. It still comes off easily enough, but doesn't pop off whenever I prime the gun!
ReplyDeleteis there anyway to take off the pull back bar AFTER the gun was already fully assembled? I tried the flat screw driver thing but it seems like i will break it...
ReplyDelete12345abcde,
ReplyDeleteSo far, that's the main method to detach an assembled Longstrike priming handle. The catch inside the handle piece has to be "unclipped" by force.
Could you give me the dimensions of the spring? I'm thinking of ordering a replacement or supplementary spring on McMaster-Carr.
ReplyDeleteLength and spring diameter would be really helpful. Thanks!
meng_mao,
ReplyDeleteThe diamensions of the aftermarket springs i use for these reverse plunger blasters are approx. 28mm OD, 110mm length and the wire diameter is between 1.6-2.0mm (depending on the spring load).
Note that due to the very limited space between the plunger tube and blaster casing in these reverse plunger designs, the springs used must conform to very specific dimensions or else they will not fit or work properly.
Can you please give me the length of the catch spring on the longstrike? I lost mine and I'm sure I can find a similar one in my spare parts bin.
ReplyDeleteHey i have stomble into this glue problem. After some time i manage to get it free. But i have to carve one of the thing that was things that was holding it. So that i can open the one side. Not sure if i am gone recommend this to others. But it works to me and the gun is still functional.
ReplyDeleteion.homedawg,
ReplyDeleteI use aftermarket catch springs nowadays, which are around 3/4" in length.
After about an hour of struggling with that stupid glue, I was finally able to separate the body of my Longstrike. To do this I dipped a paintbrush in nail polish remover and set the brush on the glued parts. I held it there for about thirty seconds and then I just slid a knife between the 2 glues components. Just keep chiseling away the glue and adding more nail polish remover until it gives way. Using this method, I was able to separate the 2 pieces without breaking or modifying the inside components.
ReplyDeleteHow do you take the orange cocking thing off... I can't get it
ReplyDeletenik5352,
ReplyDeleteAs mentioned in my previous comments, to detach the orange priming handle, just use a large flat head screwdriver, wedge it between the priming handle and casing (put a layer of cloth in between to prevent scratches), then use strength to pry them apart.
I tried that it looks like it will snap
ReplyDeleteHOw do you unclip the catch by force
ReplyDeletenik5352,
ReplyDeleteThat's the only way to detach it, just put some effort into it and the handle will pop off.
Hi SG Nerf, I recently bought a longstrike to complement my Stampede. I also bought the stampede mod kit available in the marketplace. Unfortunately, The O-ring was jamming my stampede so I removed it. Can the stampede O Ring replace the Longstrike O Ring? Also, can I get a 9 Kg Load spring from Black Tactical for a longstrike?
ReplyDeletenikhilk,
ReplyDeleteThe Stampede o-ring is too large for reverse plungers like the Longstrike, you'll need to get more specific sized o-rings for replacements.
As for Black-Tactical's items, you have to check with them directly.
Wow!! Thanks to this site, I'm able to dismantle the butt, which is way too long for my son to hold. Didn't know that you can do so much to the guns. Luv the mods. Now it got me all fired up to try my own hands on modding one. Thanks guys.
ReplyDeleteAh Chow,
ReplyDeleteCool, do pop by the NerfSG forum (www.nerfsg.com) and join in the discussions with all the local Nerf enthusiasts there too. :)
Are the recon and longstrike internals the same? Because I can't find a particuly helpful longstrike mod guide
ReplyDeleteMatt,
ReplyDeleteYes, both blaster internals are similiar (just some minor parts variations), so the modding methods are the same.
Hey SG,
ReplyDeleteDo the longstrike and recon have internals of the same size?
Shrub,
ReplyDeleteAs mentioned in my previous comments the internals are similiar, just some slight parts design variations.
Hi SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteI was wondering whether Orange mod work's recon brass breach is compatible with the longstrike? If not, what parts do I need to trim? Off topic, I tried to fix my stampede. The problem still remains. I have realized that there is an irregular fire rate. Do I need to replace the spring which is under the plunger or is there some other problem?
nikhilk,
ReplyDeleteIf you are referring to the "Brass Bolt Replacement" mod shown in Orange Mod Works "58-page Recon Guide", that's not what modders consider a brass breech system, it's just making a narrower bolt to create a tighter bolt seal using brass tubes.
Its their mod so you should check with them on whether it works on other blasters, 'cos i don't do that mod.
Btw, just to clarify, my Mod Works blog site is not affiliated to Orange Mod Works, we are different sites.
Actual brass breech systems (as commonly known by modders) have a 100% air-tight seal between the breech and barrel, like in my Recon "Brass Breech" Mod Guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/05/nerf-recon-brass-breech-mod-guide.html
For my brass breech system, it can also be done of the other reverse plunger N-Strike blasters (ie. Longstrike, Deploy, Raider, Alpha Trooper), the main build concept is the same, you'll just have to adjust some of the parts dimensions slightly as you build them to adapt to the individual models.
As for your Stampede, there could be many causes for irregular firing operation, perhaps you could read the "Stampede Troubleshooting" thread at the NerfSG forum, lots of known issues and solutions posted up there:
http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-troubleshooting-guide-t1877.html
Hi SG,
ReplyDeleteI have a modded longstrike and a few days ago, the bolt and the carrier sled broke around the area containing the securing pin. So I've fixed it with super glue and epoxy for the time being, but, I would like to know if it will stay, and if it won't, do you know anywhere where I can get replacement parts?
Thanks
Shrub,
ReplyDeleteIt'll depend on the spring load (if you're using a stronger spring) and how you handle it, depends abit on luck too. :)
I guess if it still breaks then your best alternative is to just buy a new set.
Buy a new set as in a new gun?
ReplyDeleteShrub,
ReplyDeleteYup, buy a new blaster. Modded blasters have a higher chance of breaking, so it's common for modders to have to buy more sets to replace the parts. :)
ok, thanks, but, would you be wlling to sell the bolt that you have?
ReplyDeleteShrub,
ReplyDeleteSell you my blaster's bolt? Then my blaster would be useless, what's the point? :)
Like i mentioned, just buy a new blaster if you need to replace the parts.
Haha!;). ok. I was thinking that i'll shape the parts i need with epoxy and stick them on before they set. But thanks anyway!
ReplyDeleteHey SG,
ReplyDeleteIs there anywhere to get replacement parts for the longstrike in SG? 'Cos buying a new blaster is completely out of my budget. If not, could you recommend any methods to fix my blaster?
Shrub,
ReplyDeleteWell, you could check at the NerfSG forum (www.nerfsg.com) trading section, there might be some local sellers there who may have used 2nd hand Longstrikes for sale which you could "harvest" for spare parts. :)
Another alternative way to fix and reinforce boltsleds is to cut out suitable shaped sections from metal sheets or plates and then bolt them on with screws to join the broken sections (kind of like joining a broken bone), then applying additional high strength 2-part epoxy glue to the structure to further secure it. It'll require additional modding materials and tools though, and needs time to do too.
Honestly, its easier to just get another Longstrike to get the proper parts to replace. :)
Easier, but well out of my budget...
ReplyDeletemodding... well, yeah, it is difficult, but at least I can afford it. :)
Any recommendations on epoxy glue brands?
Cheers!