Mods covered:
- Air Restrictor (AR) Removal
- Plunger Padding
- Spring Replacement
Note: These mods are also applicable to the Nerf Recon as it shares similar internal mechanisms as the Nerf Raider (some of the info here may also be repeated at the Nerf Recon Mod Guide).
>> Nerf Recon Mod Guide
>> Nerf Longshot Mod Guide
Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!
:: AR Removal ::
Step 1: Disassemble your Raider. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing. There are 14 screws in the main body, 5 screws in the front grip and 2 larger screws in the grey plunger cap.
Step 2: Detach the bolt, plunger and bolt sled. Unscrew the top plunger guide rail for easier access.
Step 3: Knock out the metal retaining pin that holds the bolt and bolt sled, this will separate the bolt from the bolt sled.
Step 4: This is the "Pipe Cutter" method. You will need a rotational pipe cutter to cut the bolt in order to remove the AR.
Please observe closely the spot where the pipe cutter blade is positioned at. That is the correct position to cut (though you can deviate 1mm either way). Just tighten the pipe cutter slightly and do the rotational cut (not too much or else it might slice the bolt in half).
In the following photo, a pre-sliced cut has already been made for reference.
Rotate the pipe cutter 2-3 times, and try to pull apart the bolt. If it doesn't move, rotate the pipe cutter again, do not over-tighten the pipe cutter! Keep testing. Very soon, the bolt will separate into two parts and the AR will just drop out.
Step 5: Join back the 2 sections of the bolt sleeve using plastic hobby or epoxy glue. Let the glue set properly before re-installing back into the blaster.
Before AR removal (top photo) & After AR removal (bottom photo).
:: Plunger Padding ::
Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on bolt impact.
This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impact on the bolt (hence the loud cracking sound during firing), many users of modded Raiders have experienced bolts eventually punching a hole out of the back of the plungers!
Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.
In the following photo, soft rubber padding is attached to the base of the plunger.
The 20mm diameter soft rubber pads i used in the above example are from a brand called "Volkmar-Fix", they can be found at most common hardware shops.
Make sure to only use soft rubber pads that are easy to compress, so that it can allow the bolt to move backwards fully for proper loading/unloading of magazines and chambering of darts.
Experiment with various plunger padding methods to help maintain the durability of AR removed blasters over long-term usage.
:: Spring Replacement ::
One way to increase the speed of air delivery through the bolt is to replace the stock spring with a stronger aftermarket spring.
There are many different springs with different sizes and spring force ratings. Springs can be sourced from your local spring supply shops. Spring choice will depend on your usage.
This example below shows a stock spring (top photo) vs. an aftermarket 6kg load spring (bottom photo).
Stronger springs are usually made of thicker wires. Internal casing trimming and adjustments may need to be done so that the springs have enough space to expand when compressed, for smooth firing operation.
Stock internal casing (left photo) vs. Trimmed internal casing (right photo).
Depending on the strength of the spring used, extra catch springs may also need to be added to hold the increased tension.
Note that a stronger spring will require more effort to prime the blaster before each shot, and the impact of the plunger on the bolt and overall stress on the blaster casing is also much greater. It'll be important to account for these factors when doing a spring replacement.
:: Sample Test Fire Data ::
PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)
Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 6 darts).
Stock Raider
PTG = 20 ft
ATG = 30 ft
Modded Raider (AR Removal & 6kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 50 ft
ATG = 60 ft
Note that the test was done indoors with customized foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).
How much does it slow the firing of the Raider?
ReplyDeleteWell, if the original spring is replaced with a stronger aftermarket spring, the priming action would usually require more effort. That factor might affect the firing rate (depending on the strength of the user). :)
ReplyDeletethx 4 e mod
ReplyDeleteIs the spring replacement neccessary for the Raider to function after the AR removal? I was modding a Maverick and it stopped firing after I took out the AR, So I was wondering if something similar might happen to Raider.
ReplyDeleteThanks!
The aftermarket spring replacement is an additional enhancement to further increase the firing range and foam dart velocity. If done properly, it will not affect the firing of the blaster.
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure of your Maverick modding technique, but AR removal should not cause it to stop firing. Do check if there are any mistakes you made during the modding process.
I have done AR removal, spring replacement and air seal mods on my Mavericks and they all work perfectly.
I hav mod it jus now n it feel great
ReplyDeleteOK, thanks for the info. I was attempting a Nightfinder/Maverick integration mod, so the failure might be somewhere else other than the barrel. (In fact, probably is...) If you have any tips on what to look for, I'd love to hear them... =D
ReplyDeleteA follow-up question: How much fishtailing have you noticed after modding the Raider? On other sites (NerfHaven, etc...) people have been complaining about it in their modded Raiders. If my darts do fishtail, is there anyway (short of modifying the darts) to correct the problem?
Thanks again!
Check the plunger itself and see if air is effectively being pushed through when it compresses.
ReplyDeleteAlso, check the alignment of the barrels and the plunger, air might be blocked and may not be flowing through properly.
With more power propelling the stock foam darts, it becomes even more important to use stock foam darts that are in perfect shape and condition, just some slight bent or damage and it'll affect the distance and accuracy greatly.
ReplyDeleteTherefore try to ensure you use perfect stock foam darts, especially when using modded blasters. :)
hi,Is it possible for the metal thing to bend under too much stress from the spring if i do a spring replacement?
ReplyDeleteIts possible... if you use a spring that is so strong that the metal bar that connects the front priming handle to the plunger actually bends under stress, then you'd have to reinforce it and all the connections in between.
ReplyDeleteokay, say I use a strikefire spring.would I still have to reinforce it? and if so, how? thanks
ReplyDeleteWell, adding a stock spring from the Strikefire wouldn't increase the spring load significantly, so its very unlikely it'll need reinforcements.
ReplyDeleteBut if you do manage to find a much stronger spring, and if you test it and find that it seems to bend or stress the internal parts, then it'll be a good idea to check the various online Nerf forums for examples and ideas on reinforcing parts.
There are no hard and fast rules when it comes to reinforcing components, its usually just a matter of tinkering to see what works best for your application.
Thanks for all the help! I used your mods and they work great! =D
ReplyDeleteokay thanks.And one more thing, where do you get your aftermarket springs from? i can't seem to find them anywhere.
ReplyDeleteI get my aftermarket springs from various hardware stores and spring manufacturers around my area.
ReplyDeleteJust do an online or business directory check on such companies around your area, give them a call and visit them to check out what springs they have.
Remember to bring along your stock springs for comparison to ensure that you get aftermarket springs which can properly fit your blasters. :)
I did the mods but now raider does not stay cocked what would cause that?
ReplyDeleteAre you using an aftermarket spring with thicker wire diameters?
ReplyDeleteTry this test, take out the grey end cap, and try priming your Raider again. Does it stay primed now? And did you notice the rear section of the casing spliting apart slightly when you primed it?
If so, then the issue would be the aftermarket spring you are using is now taking up more space in the plunger compartment as its overall diameter expands when compressed, this jams the plunger so its unable to be pulled back far enough to be held by the trigger catch.
The solution is to just use a dremel to trim the inside of the rear section of plastic casing (where the grey end cap covers), this will give the spring more space to expand when compressed. Keep trimming and testing until you get a smooth priming and catch action.
Btw, i've just updated the Raider Mod Guide with a photo of the trimmed internal casing.
ReplyDeletePlease do the new nerf eliminators. They come with the hyperfire and the targets.
ReplyDeleteSo far, that particular bundled set is not avaliable at my local stores, therefore no chance to get them.
ReplyDeleteive heard about raider "power stocks". i do not know what are they. but in some vids they say in increases the range of the raider. if u know wad a "power stock" is, can you tell me what is it and how to do it or tell me where i can find info on how to do it
ReplyDelete"Power stocks" are basically just an extra tube (ie. pvc pipe) stuck to the back of a re-worked plunger casing as an extension to house another spring for additional force to push the plunger.
ReplyDeleteIf you still can't figure out how it works, just check the NerfHaven forums, you'll find some examples of that mod done there.
hey another mod (if u wanna sacrifice ur buttstock) is to pplace PVC pipe or CPVC to the end of e plunger (without the grey cap) and seal the end and cut hole at plunger end, seal together with glue, close the PVC ending with glue, settle and walla! more air capacity in the plunger!!
ReplyDeletei cant get the pin out on the ar removal can u plz help?
ReplyDeleteJust use a small screwdriver and hammer, then gently knock the metal pin out.
ReplyDeleteThe mod I did (because I could not find a stiffer standard spring) involved placing a "pull force" spring in the front barrel shroud, then wiring it back to the plunger. When the gun is cocked, tension is put on both the rear and front springs, creating the same effect as a stiffer rear spring alone.
ReplyDeletehi. great mod!!! it works awesome!! would the coin trick work woth the spring?
ReplyDeleteran into some serious jamming issues after doing this mod. streamline darts keep jamming themselves past the point where the dart would have rested on the air restrictor. I'm taking it apart and re-assembling tomorrow. I hope didn't just blow $35
ReplyDeletePaul,
ReplyDeleteThe "Coin Trick" as in like the in Maverick mods whereby a coin is put at the base of the spring to pre-compress it?
For the Raider, this could pose an issue as the coin would block the plunger from being pulled backwards fully, therefore chambering of darts and loading/unloading of magazines would be affected.
can u post a vid on modifying it? cos i do not want to screw it up. also i am not quite sure about the ''hotwater'' method can u make a video?
ReplyDeleteThere are plenty of videos on youtube showing how to mod blasters, so i'm not too keen to duplicate that method of mod guide.
ReplyDeleteI choose to do detailed step-by-step written mod guides with photos and instructions instead so that it can be much clearer to follow.
You really just need to take the initial step, open up the casing and take some time to get familiar with the workings of the various internal mechanisms and parts. Tinker around abit. Once you've personally worked on a blaster mod yourself, i'm sure you'll develop your modding skills very quickly.
The "Hot Water" method of removing the AR requires patience and careful handling of the heated bolt. Its only one of many alternative methods to remove the AR.
If you don't feel confident doing that, i'd suggest using the "Pipe Cutter" method instead (much neater, if you have a rotary pipe cutter) or you could use a drilling tool to drill through the AR too (though abit messy).
im trying with my recon first, if it is a success, can i change the boltsled and plunger with the recon and raider?
ReplyDeletehi, i modded my recon and removed the ar using the hot water method. first, the seperating the ar was difficult because mine, the plastic/glue did not wrinkle as fast. (you said dip it in for 10seconds,but i dipped it in for 20seconds and took it out to twist but couldn't even using lots of strength, i kept doing it and finally it came apart) okay, 2nd is when i reassembled the recon, the cocking mechanism,somehow cocked up and when u cock backwards, it is alright. but when u cock it forward, the orange protruding plastic will not budge down,when it is supposed to. when the dart touches that plastic, it the cocking get's tough. i have to use quite an amount of strength to push it in and finally, it could. but if i were to want to shoot and quickly fire again, it would take me at least 15 seconds to get the next bullet loaded. is this because when i glued the bolt back, it was slightly crooked? or is it like that? what is the cause of it not being able to load as easily as not-modded 1?
ReplyDeleteThere are a few things that may cause the issues you are experiencing:
ReplyDelete1) Your bolt was not glued straight and in line with the bolt carrier group and dart receiver. Re-do it and make sure everything is properly aligned.
2) The blocker plate or its spring is not installed properly (it might have popped out), open up the casing and position it back properly.
3) The bolt sled itself is not installed properly (the sled is not aligned on the casing track), open up the casing and make sure its aligned and moving smoothly.
The majority of odd issues encountered after a blaster is modded is due to the parts not installed back properly, so just open up the casing and check that everything is aligned properly. Keep adjusting until everything is operating smoothly.
Ernest,
ReplyDeleteFor the swapping of boltsled and plunger parts between the Recon and Raider, both blaster parts have different specific designs, so its not possible unless the parts are modified to fit.
i recently bought a raider cs 35 and decided i didnt like how far it shot, and its kinda hard for me to get ahold of a spring replacement so i just decided i would take out the AR. i took it apart and tried the hot water technique but all it did was nothing, or melt the plastic to form an even tighter bond. so i decided to cut it instead, but i cut the bolt where the seam is in this picture, which is too far forward, and i couldnt get the AR out. so then i cut it farther back, which was exactly right after the stopper that holds the AR from going into the plunger, so i just decided to take a drill to it and dig it out. eventually after hours of gluing i got it to stay straight and put back together
ReplyDeleteover all not a good experience, but now it shoots slightly farther. anyways my point is that you should atleast have a picture of where to cut the bolt if melting/dissolving the glue in hot water doesn't work
thanks
-Camdude
camdude,
ReplyDeleteFor reference, note that the link to the "Pipe Cutter" method for AR removal (over at the Recon Mod Guide) is actually already mentioned in Step 4 of this guide.
The Recon Mod Guide has a photo that shows exactly where to cut the bolt for AR removal.
Here is the direct link to it:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html
Hope that helps for your future mods. :)
well, i actually had the same problem with camdude, i tried it with the recon and it worked perfectly. but when i tried pulling the ar out of the raider, the hot water method DID NOT WORK! i guess the newer batch of raiders had reinforced glue or plastic but when i try the hot water method, it just cannot come apart please helppp!! is it because the water isn't hot enough or whether i dipped the plunger in for too long until the water was not hot enough?
ReplyDeleteErnest,
ReplyDeleteYup, the "Hot Water" method does require extra care and effort to do properly.
I guess there are many factors involved... water too hot or not hot enough, bolt dipped too long or not long enough, too much or too little force when pulling apart the bolt etc... results will depend largely on the modder when using that AR removal method.
There is an easier alternative, use the "Pipe Cutter" method instead. :)
sadly, i do not have neither a pipe cutter nor the ability and knowledge to use it. will stick to the hot water method as i have the equiptments to do so. what do u mean by water too hot, u mean that the water can be TOO hot?
ReplyDeleteErnest,
ReplyDeleteWell, the hotter the water the faster the plastic softens, so you'd just have to gauge the right moment to seperate the joint seam. If the bolt is left too long in hot water, the plastic might also melt and deform, so its all about timing and testing.
PLEASE include in next(if any) raider mod adding an extra spring in the stock---extra 5-10 feet. :)
ReplyDeletesee site for example:
http://nerfornothing.blogspot.com/2009/08/modified-nerf-raider.html
can i just use a knive and cut it?
ReplyDeleteJoseph,
ReplyDeleteYup, i've tried the "power stock" mods before too, though i didn't experience much significant increase in range, so i didn't include that mod in my guides. Probably its due to the limitations in the air capacity of reverse plunger systems.
Anyways, i guess the "power stock" mod is still worth doing to perhaps squeeze an extra few feet in range. :)
Ernest,
ReplyDeleteIts possible, just have to be careful not to cut the bolt directly in half. :)
I just finished a raider clip mod the clip now hold 42 darts
ReplyDeleteI am kind of worried about moding my Recon CS-6. I really want distance, and accuracy. I also have a problem with my clip, and the darts getting bent, and when I shoot them, they always rip, and tear. I really am worried about modding, because I don't want to get another gun if I ruin this one not knowing what to do.
ReplyDeleteIssac,
ReplyDeleteAlways use foam darts that are in good condition, don't use damaged darts.
Practice priming your Recon smoothly to chamber each dart fully before firing. It takes some practice but once you get the technique there will be alot less jams.
Modding blasters may result in damage or wearing out of parts pre-maturely, so if you're not comfortable with the risk, then don't mod it. :)
Do the soft rubber pads "Volkmar-Fix" prevent the plunger from breaking? Or is it better for additional rubber pads added to help enforce it?
ReplyDeleteThank you!
Alex,
ReplyDeleteFrom my experience, my modded Recons and Raiders have been through months of heavy game usage and so far their plungers are still in perfect working condition, so i guess the "Volkmar-Fix" padding works well. :)
You can add additional layers of padding too, but just have make sure it doesn't restrict the movement of the bolt for the loading or unloading of clips.
can you tell me where to buy the after market srping? and what sizes, lenghts, widths, where to buy? thanks! :)
ReplyDeleteGabe,
ReplyDeleteFor information on the various locally sourced aftermarket springs (in Singapore) that have been tried and tested to work in Nerf blasters, check the NerfSG forum, lots of discussions on springs and modification techniques there. :)
If you're not in Singapore, then just check at the hardware shops and spring manufacturing companies around your area. Remember to bring the original stock springs along with you to match the correct sizes and dimensions with the aftermarket ones.
Dude, if i just replace my Raider's spring to an aftermarket spring, will the distance be any further or will it just be the same? Thx. And, my friend said that if i replace my spring to an aftermarket spring, the ROF will become a bit slower, is that true?
ReplyDeleteEmman,
ReplyDeleteIf you just replace your Raider stock spring with a stronger spring, but don't remove the AR, the air flow will still be restricted, resulting in very limited performance increase.
So its recommended to both remove the AR and use a stronger aftermarket spring to fully maximise the range improvements.
The amount of range increase will depend on the strength of the aftermarket spring used and also how well everything is modded. In my mod guide example, i use a 7kg aftermarket industrial spring.
Your Raider RoF would largely depend on how fast you can prime and fire it, so if you use a stronger aftermarket spring, it'll need more strength to prime, hence RoF would then depend on your individual strength. :)
Hey, Sgnerf, you said the guy on Black-tactical shop at Bedok is a member of Sgnef forums right? Can you like ask him whether he can mod it for me? Thx.. (:
ReplyDeleteEmman Shafiq,
ReplyDeleteFor such arrangements, please contact them directly on your own.
You can get the shop's contact number from their website: www.black-tactical.com
Just check with them and see if they are able assist you on what you require.
Where did you get the aftermarket spring? Please tell me where to get one I haven't found one anywhere.
ReplyDeleteHoward,
ReplyDeleteMy springs are sourced from various industrial spring manufacturers and suppliers.
For more information on the various locally sourced aftermarket springs (in Singapore) that have been tried and tested to work in Nerf blasters, check the NerfSG forum, lots of discussions on springs and modification techniques there. :)
If you're not in Singapore, then just check at the hardware shops and spring manufacturing companies around your area. Remember to bring the original stock springs along with you to match the correct sizes and dimensions with the aftermarket ones.
I live in the US and Ive looked at every hardware store an online and I can't find the right spring.
ReplyDeleteHoward,
ReplyDeleteIf you are in the USA, check the NerfHaven forum for info on the sources and locations where those nerfers get their aftermarket springs.
You can also check McMaster-Carr website for spring supplies:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#compression-springs/=6eok0k
I have looked on NerfHaven and foundnd nothing on springs but do you happen to know the dimensions of the aftermarket spring?
ReplyDeleteHoward,
ReplyDeleteFor the Raider, the aftermarket spring i used in the mod guide example above has an OD of 28mm, wire thickness of 1.6mm and a free length of around 110mm.
Note that for blasters with reverse plungers, the amount of internal casing space avaliable to hold the spring is very limited, so the aftermarket spring has to have dimensions as close as possible to the original spring. The spring cannot be too wide or too narrow, or else it would not be able to fit properly.
Do you what the material of the spring is?
ReplyDeleteHoward,
ReplyDeleteThere are usually 2 common materials used in compression springs: Music Wire or Steel.
For aftermarket springs, i usually choose Steel springs, as Music Wire springs tend to develop rust very quickly.
hi i want to mod my raider two and i was thinking of a way to remove the ar without takeing the plunger and putting it in water or drilling it any ideas?
ReplyDeletetoxic72,
ReplyDeleteUse the rotary pipe cutter method as shown in my Recon Mod Guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html
what drill do i need for the raider mod??
ReplyDeletemohsin,
ReplyDeleteDrill? There is no need to use any drill, based on the modding methods shown in my Raider mod guide.
hot water method did not remove the AR. its still stuck in there.
ReplyDeletedave,
ReplyDeleteIt just means you didn't do it properly.
Use the pipe cutter method instead, its easier and faster:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html
If I mod my raider by only AR removal and stretched spring, how many ft will it go?
ReplyDeleteEmman Shafiq,
ReplyDeleteWell, the spring stretching method doesn't really improve the power much as there is no change in the original spring strength.
But if you just do the AR removal, your Recon's range should reach up to 35-40 ft if fired parallel-to-ground, and maybe up to 45-50 ft of fired at a higher angle.
For those who lack pipe cutters, and can't get the hot water thing to work, I managed to cut it open perfectly with a craft knife. Bit messy, and not recommended, but possible
ReplyDeletewhere did you get your stronger spring? any chain store?
ReplyDeleteamericandude74,
ReplyDeleteMy aftermarket springs are sourced from local spring manufacturers in Singapore.
Most of the aftermarket springs i use are specially calibrated and customised to my own specifications.
If you are overseas, you could just check with the spring manufacturers around your area to custom make springs... or check online at the McMasters website, they have a range of ready-made springs which you could test out too.
sorry if this is a tad off topic but i have been trolling your blog and was wondering in your expert opinion which of teh following would you pick from (fully modded and including price difference considerations):
ReplyDeletenerf raider
or
nerf recon
Ian,
ReplyDeleteIf i were to choose between both blasters that are equally modded, i would go for the Raider.
The is because the Raider has its in-built slam-fire feature and a pump-action foregrip priming design. In addition, its got the 35-dart drum magazine too. :)
Hello, I am modding my nerf raider into a pistol by having the pump on the side and most of the barrel removed. I did the first part but do you know the easiest way to cut through the plastic of the barrel? I tried boiling water but all that accomplished was bending the tip which means i can't put it back together without doing what I intended. PLEASE HELP!
ReplyDeletePaul,
ReplyDeleteThe "hot water" method to soften and seperate plastic can be abit tough to control.
The other methods to cut plastic could be to either use a hobby hacksaw, or a motorized rotary tool (ie. Dremel) with a cutting bit designed for working on plastic... or simply a model hobby knife.
Btw, do be careful when using such hobby tools. :)
the answer to the jamming probs after AR removal is that the hot water method completely removes the AR, which prevent more than 1 bullet from coming into the firing tube. Insted take out the AR and use a drill to knock it out.
ReplyDeletei tried the water AR removal and it didnt work at all... i put it in boiling water and it didnt melt neither the glue nor the plastic. any advice?
ReplyDeletecharlz23,
ReplyDeleteThe technique and results of using hot water to seperate the bolt sections varies from modder to modder.
I guess it depends on various conditions like the temperature of the water, timing of the bolt's exposure to the hot water, and the correct amount of strength used to seperate the bolt sections.
Anyways, if you find that you can't remove the AR with the method, then alternatively you could try the "Pipe Cutter" method as detailed in my Recon Mod Guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html
Or if you have a power drill, just use a long drill bit to drill out the AR from either end, it'll be messier and you'll have to be careful not to damage the rest of the bolt in the process, but it does the job too.
I was wondering about the aftermarket spring. I looked at my hardware stores in my area and I cannot find a spring that will fit the plunger tube. Where can i go??
ReplyDeletelilmowgin,
ReplyDeleteIf you are in Singapore, check the NerfSG forum, the modding group there have tried and tested aftermarket springs avaliable for sale to forum members.
If you are overseas, perhaps you could check with industrial spring manufacturing companies around your area, they would often have a wide range of ready-made springs to choose from and can usually custom-make springs too.
Hi SG Nerf, I was just wondering which is better the rapid fire 20 or the magstrike because it is nearly my birthday.
ReplyDeletehotandcold,
ReplyDeleteIf you plan to just use the Rapid Fire AS-20 as a stand-alone blaster, its quite effective in Nerf games, especially for fast paced indoor gameplay.
But once you deplete your 20 dart ammo, you'll have to switch to another blaster or risk getting eliminated by opponents while you are busy reloading darts one by one.
If you can find and get extra Magstrike clips, then the Magstrike AS-10 would be more effective, because it can be reloaded with multiple clips very quickly, thereby speeding up reload time.
Can I remove the AR without a drill? Please reply
ReplyDeletemahad,
ReplyDeleteYup, just use the "Pipe Cutter" method as shown in my Nerf Raider Mod Guide. :)
Can i remove the AR with a screwdriver and hammer and gently push it out with it? will the whole tube break then? Because this guy did it this way. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cua_GKNjGys
ReplyDeleteForward it to 1:14. My question is can u take the AR out with a hammer and screwdriver.
mahad,
ReplyDeleteWell, you could use a hammer and screwdriver to knock out the AR. Just have to be careful not to weaken or crack the bolt in the process.
If i just take out the AR, what will the range be? PTG= ?
ReplyDeleteATG= ?
mahad,
ReplyDeleteIf you just remove the AR, it should add at least another 10-15ft over the stock range.
can you use anything other then a pipe cutter
ReplyDeletethanks
Giantkiller2310,
ReplyDeleteWell, if you want to use the "Pipe Cutter" method but don't have a pipe cutter, then you could simply try using a hobby knife to carefully cut a similiar rotational cut around the bolt at the same place.
Eventually, the cut will be at the right depth to allow the bolt to be seperated into 2 parts neatly and the AR components will just pop out.
i cut the bolts but i cannot find the AR
ReplyDeleteGiantkiller2310,
ReplyDeleteThe ARs are in the section as shown in the photo in Step 5 of the mod guide.
If I decide to remove the AR but not put in a different spring should I still add padding to reduce stress on the Raider?
ReplyDeletecan you tell us how to reassemble the nerf gun
ReplyDeletecoolsam1097,
ReplyDeleteYes, once the AR is removed, you must add proper padding to the plunger as there is no more air buffer to absorb the impacts during firing.
Giantkiller2310,
ReplyDeleteJust reassemble it part by part, all the components fit logically.
HELP i cannot refix my raider. its completsy broken
ReplyDeleteif i send my raider 2 u can u mod it for me
ReplyDeleteV,
ReplyDeleteSorry, i don't do contracts for modding blasters.
Thats the reason why i post up step-by-step mod guides, so that everyone to refer to and mod their own blasters. :)
How thick do you need the anti-slip pads to be?
ReplyDeleteAlso is the pipe cutter method the only way to remove the air restrictor?
Oscar,
ReplyDeleteI'd recommend getting padding that are thinner (ie 2-3mm) so that you can add multiple layers to customise the padding thickness.
The "Pipe Cutter" method is just one of the ways to remove the Air Restrictor (AR).
Other methods include using a drill to drill out the ARs, or using a hammer and a long screwdriver to knock out the ARs etc.
It all depends on what tools you have and how neat you want the AR removal to be. :)
When you remove the AR is the tube where the AR used to be supposed to be completely empty? (no plastic)
ReplyDeleteOscar,
ReplyDeleteWell, if the ARs were removed by the "Pipe Cutter" method as shown in my Mod Guide, the bolt internals should look like the photo in the guide.
Will any of these springs work with my unmodified
ReplyDeleteraider?
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Nerf U.S.A,
ReplyDeleteThe Raider's plunger dimensions are similiar to the Recon, so you should go for aftermarket springs which are also designed for the Recon.
Do note that the Raider's internal casing may require additional trimming to create more space for aftermarket springs that have thicker wires to fit and work properly.
Can you specify where you got the Volkmar Fix brand pads? I've checked at some of my local hardware stores and tried Google Search, but I haven't been able to find them.
ReplyDeletenaturalman_7,
ReplyDeleteVolkmar-Fix brand soft padding are available in most hardware stores in Singapore. Check at stores like HomeFix, SelfFix or even any neighborhood hardware shop.
If you are overseas and this brand is not available, just search for similar soft padding that are designed to absorb impact.
Hello SG Nerf!
ReplyDeleteI modded my friends Raider for him by removing the air restrictors (drilling them out).
He hasn't touched since I modded it for him two days ago. When he came out to do a nerf battle, after a couple shots the primer wouldn't prime. Do you understand what I'm saying? I don't know what it's called, but I'll explain it to you:
you pull the handle, you hear a click (the problem) and you slide the handle back in place. Then, you shoot.
I think I'm going to open it up, and check it out again.
can you help?
e2design,
ReplyDeleteSeems like something in the Raider is either misplaced or misaligned, open it up again and check.
coolcool
ReplyDeleteredid the whole thing.
works great now
thanks :D
sgnerf,im using rex brand soft pad but when i put it into the plunge and put every back when i prime it backward it was smooth but when i prime it forward it is stuck half way and i know that the white piece was blocking it and the soft padding is too thick now wad do i do?
ReplyDeletesgnerf,im using rex brand soft pad but when i put it into the plunge and put every back when i prime it backward it was smooth but when i prime it forward it is stuck half way and i know that the white piece was blocking it and the soft padding is too thick now wad do i do?
ReplyDeletepls reply i need help!
nerf_penang, I had a similar problem. I'm not sure what went wrong with my mod, but that white piece won't lock open anymore when I pull the handle back. I fixed it by putting a couple layers of tape on top of the white piece, giving it the extra height for it to push in far enough to lock. I had to be careful not to put tape on in a way that the tape gets caught when pulling the handle forward again. Hope this helps.
ReplyDeletenerf_penang,
ReplyDeleteThin down the soft padding and test again.
but the padding is already sticking inside the plunge.how do i get it out?
ReplyDeletenerf_penang,
ReplyDeleteUse a pair of tweezers and pull it out.
then can i use hotglue to glue it back?
ReplyDeleteI followed your guide very closely and I removed the air restrictor with a drill, which worked fine. And then I also removed the plastic piece and spring underneath the sliding jam door, so I could open it whenever I want to. I think that might be where my problem is?
ReplyDeleteSo anyways I put the two halves of the gun back together and held together tightly while I tested a dart. The handle was really hard to pull back, to cock the gun. And then I pulled the trigger and it slammed hard sounding just like my other modded guns, so it sounds okay. And then I played around with it a bit more and testing it and it seemed to be fine - even shooting almost twice as far! So I was very happy and decided to go ahead and put all the screws back in and put the gun back together.
After getting it back together I tried putting my drum magazine in, and had a lot of trouble getting the gun to cock fully back to allow for the magazine to go in, but I finally got it in. And then I tried shooting and it shot one, then two at a time, and then got jammed, and then I put the handle completely forward after cocking it, and it won't fire, and the cocking mechanism is completely stuck and will not move. What is the problem?? I was thinking it had something to do with the jam-door lock piece with spring. The door acted funny after I took it out... I doubt it has anything major to do with the way the gun is cocked, but it's really annoying now.
HELP!!! :-O
octorok,
ReplyDeleteSeems like there might be internal components mis-aligned within the blaster. Open up the casing and check that everything is aligned properly and operating smoothly.
Also check that the plunger padding you are using is not too thick as that may interfere with the proper operation of the loading and firing system.
If I used those fabric pads that are used to protect furniture to pad the plunger would it work? Also if I used foam from say, a yoga mat would it work?
ReplyDeleteOne more thing. To test if the material works should I try taking the bolt, and hitting it on the material (material is on top of a table) with considerable force unless I know the material will be to weak? If not how should I test materials without the risk of destroying my blaster in the process.
Oscar,
ReplyDeleteThe fabric or felt pads for protecting furniture tend to be too dense/hard, so they can't compress fully to allow the bolt to be pulled backward fully for the proper loading and unloading of clips. Once you start modding your Raider you will understand why.
Its best to use those soft padding that can be compressed flat when you press them between your fingers.
Testing the materials and components outside of the plunger can't really replicate the actual effect. You have to test it in the plunger to see if it fits and provides sufficient protection.
The best way to find out if it works is to test it and see if your components are still intact after prolonged usage.
I have broken many blasters in the process of modding and usage, thats how i discover the best materials and methods to mod blasters. :)
Is there a way to do the testing without breaking my gun???
ReplyDeleteOscar,
ReplyDeleteIf you are worried about breaking your blaster, perhaps you shouldn't mod it.
Modded blasters will wear out and break eventually, so you have to accept that when you do any modding work on them.
SgNerf can u make a barrel mod for the raider??can u think of any size of PVC pipes that can make a better seal of the air to make the dart shoot further and make the gun look cool.like the links below:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gFmWc8mFcU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF_mBz8scuQ&feature=related
Hey SG nerf =3 I have a problem. I have no clue as to how to knock out the metal retaining pin. I do own the clear raider btw, if that may make a differance. I keep trying with everything, but it won't work. I don't want to try too hard however, incase I break something. Thanks in advance.
ReplyDeletenerfpenang,
ReplyDeleteA barrel mod on it's own could be as simple as just adding a length of PVC pipe to extend the existing barrel, but note that if it is not part of an air-tight breech system, it'll reduce power and range.
So far, i've found the best method to create air-tight breeches is the brass breech design, this is because the brass tubes modders use can nest in each other perfectly and automatically form air-tight seals.
Although PVC pipes can nest within each other, they are rarely able to achieve 100% air seal due to the inconsistency in PVC pipe construction, even sections with the same length of pipe can differ slightly in measurements.
So along with extended barrels, i'd recommend using brass breech designs for the best overall performance gains.
Chris,
ReplyDeleteTo remove the metal retaining pin in the bolt sled, position the bolt sled at a suitable angle, then simply use a small precision screwdriver with a hammer to tap the metal pin out.
After you take out the AR, are you still able to keep the long piece that holds the dart in place?
ReplyDeleteDRaKe6900,
ReplyDeleteIts possible to keep the plastic dart post in place, just install it back into the bolt before re-assembly.
The only thing is you would not be able to use stefans or customised foam darts that are made with solid foam backer rod (FBR).
That's ok, I wasn't planning on using stefans for the time being anyway. Would I still need to put the rubber padding on the plunger?
ReplyDeleteDRaKe6900,
ReplyDeleteYes, once a blaster's AR is removed, plunger padding will need to be installed to cushion the higher impacts between the bolt and the plunger base.
Hey SGNerf, done the mods and it works great, just that instead of using a pipe cutter, I hammered the AR out. One quick question, will the Volkmar Fix require replacement, like once every six months or so? (BTW I found the Volkmar Fix at HomeFix at Tampines 1, SGD$4.50 for a 12-pack)
ReplyDeleteJoshua D,
ReplyDeleteSo far, i have not needed to change the Volkmar-Fix padding in my modded blasters.
But it would be a good idea to check occasionally to make sure the padding is still in good condition and in the right position.
For the padding...is the Volkmar-Fix the most reliable padding or is there anything that works as well? Thanks
ReplyDeleteDaniel,
ReplyDeleteWell, so far i've been using the Volkmar-Fix padding for most of my blaster mods and they have worked well over the years.
You can also use any other suitable padding material, just test them out to see if they work too.
Hi SG Nerf, Merry Xmas to you. Just wanna ask of your opinion, does felt gliders of same brand as your rubber padding works as a padding as well? I thought that it might be softer and easier to compress. Have you experiment on that before? and also when removing the AR, does the guide rod go back into the chamber or its out with the AR?
ReplyDeleteTaggy,
ReplyDeleteThe problem with using felt gliders is that they are much harder in density and can't compress flat. Using those in plungers would tend to cause issues with blaster operation.
The rubber/foam padding i use are soft and can compress completely flat easily, so they work well in plungers.
Just try both and you will see the difference.
The dart positioning stem can be kept intact or removed, its up to you. I usually remove them along with the AR so that i can also use custom foam darts made with solid core foam backer rods (FBR) in those blasters too.
I'm having this problem now.
ReplyDeletehttp://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18771
same thing. Help please. :(
Taggy,
ReplyDeleteYou should just follow that forum thread discussion and try what the posters recommend.
Imho, the Raider internals can be quite tricky to troubleshoot so you have to spend some time to figure out the issue on your own and fix it.
I've just modded my raider then put it back together. I then found that it was hard to put the magazine in and take it out.I think that the clip holder thing was protruding outwards more than usual. Help?! IDK what to do.
ReplyDeletePahaluDotCom,
ReplyDeleteIf you put in thicker plunger padding, the bolt would be prevented from being pulled back fully.
A solution is to simply trim the padding thinner.
The other solution is to trim the sides of the plastic bolt abit so that there is more clearance for the clips to be loaded and unloaded.
But what do i do if i don't have a pipe cutter?
ReplyDeletebrandon.youtube,
ReplyDeleteGet a pipe cutter. :)
SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteI'm confused on the topic of the plunger. In the older models, the plumger was a round piece on a plastic shaft, which pushed air through the tube when the spring was released.
You call the raider and the other clip-fed N-Strike blasters a "reverse plunger" type, meaning they have a hollow tube with one end closed, and the entire length of it pushes air through the pipes. Correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Where exactly does the rubber padding go on the plunger? Is it inside and pushed to the bottom? Is it glued to the back?
Thanks!
Matt,
ReplyDeleteYes, your description of a reverse plunger is correct. Just open up any such blasters and have a look at how they work, quite simple to observe.
In my modding example, the padding is attached at the base of the plunger tube (the tube that springs forward when fired).
Padding can be placed at the bolt side too (the side near to the o-ring), but then the padding will need to be cut into the specific hollow ring shape to fit properly.
Hey SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteI removed all the screws excpet one in the cocking handle becuase i stuffed the screw head and took it apart then put it back together with the screw still on and now the darts only just makes it out of the barrell when i use teh Clips, except when i manually put the dart into the bolt/breech it goes really far over 50 feet, please help me i really dont know wat happening?
randomguyonstreet586,
ReplyDeleteIt looks like your Raider's pop-up dart blocker plate mechanism and spring (positioned internally in front of the clip slot) has somehow got mis-aligned and therefore not working properly, resulting in the foam darts not being chambered properly into the bolt for optimal firing.
You'll have to open it up fully to realign the blocker plate mechanism and spring.
Hi There SgNerf I Want To Mod My Raider And i Was Wondering How long has your raider lasted since modding It
ReplyDeletethomasandfriends2010,
ReplyDeleteMy modded Raiders have lasted for more than a year of regular Nerf game usage, and so far they are still working fine. I guess the plunger padding i used helped to keep the plunger tube intact.
is it a must to put on plunger padding??
ReplyDeletejustboxit,
ReplyDeleteWell, plunger padding would help to cushion the impacts and reduce the chances of plunger damage, so its highly recommended to install them (unless you don't mind seeing your blaster plungers break often).
How thick should the padding be? I cut out a circle of the soft portion of velcro and trimmed down the furry stuff it't about 1/16 of an inch.
ReplyDeleteomgortfl,
ReplyDeleteThe padding i use is around 4-5mm thick, but it can be compressed flat easily so it doesn't affect the priming and clip loading process.
As for velcro, i've not used that material for plunger padding before so i guess you'll just have to experiment with the thickness of the padding layer to get the optimal fit.
Just to let people know...aftermarket springs can be found on ebay for around ten bucks.
ReplyDeletewhile I was taking my Raider apart the small, white, two peace assembly fell out...springs and all. I've seen other sites where the person has said this is not needed and can be removed from the gun....any thoughts or comments? Can I just leave this out?
ReplyDeleteBill,
ReplyDeleteThe white plastic parts and springs seem to be components related to the slam-fire feature, though i've not tested my Raiders without them.
Maybe you can just assemble your Raider and see if it still works without the white plastic pieces. :)
Thanks for getting back to me. I've tried assembling about eleven times and I can't get the gun to cock everytime. Upon disassembly I'm finding the spring is getting jammed up in the round orange piece that surrounds it. I've ordered a new high strength spring and I'm waiting for that before I go any further. I also dremmeled out the casing where you said to. As for the little white parts, I would just put them back in but I'm not sure how they all go back together as they all fell out as I was taking the gun apart.
ReplyDeleteBill,
ReplyDeleteYeah, the reverse plunger blasters have this common issue of very limited space between the plunger tube and casing, so it makes spring replacements rather tricky.
As for the white plastic components, just try the various combinations and positionings and eventually they'll click together nicely, kinda like lego. :)
Could you move back the front handle and cut of some of the barrel? I find the shorter the gun the easier it is to handle.
ReplyDeleteDevon,
ReplyDeleteIt's possible to trim 1-2 inches off the plastic in front of the barrel, but the pump grip mechanism needs to be able to move forward fully to complete the foam dart chambering process, so there isn't much you can shorten anyways.
I can't find anything to poke out the retaining pin for the bolt and bolt sled. Help!
ReplyDeleteb58,
ReplyDeleteJust use a matching tip sized precision screwdriver and a hammer, then carefully tap out the metal retaining pin.
can you repost the hot water method for removing the air restrictor? i dont have a pipe cutter.
ReplyDeletecranger,
ReplyDeleteI removed the "hot water AR removal method" because too many modders do it wrongly and end up damaging their bolts.
If you want to try it out, simply dip the bolt in hot water and wait until the plastic softens, then carefully pull it apart.
You can see 2 photos of the process here:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_ynWOAg4YQB0/StC5zc4srgI/AAAAAAAABBc/5ekvrH4l-L8/Nerf%20Raider%20Mod%20-%2005.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_ynWOAg4YQB0/StC5z8DbuwI/AAAAAAAABBk/KfYRzV1UACQ/Nerf%20Raider%20Mod%20-%2006.JPG
Once the AR components pop out, rejoin the bolt sections with strong 2-part epoxy glue.
The problem most modders find with it is they leave the bolt in the hot water too long and the plastic warps or they accidently bend the plastic, then it will not work anymore.
Sg,
ReplyDeletei was wondering if you ever though about taking out the priming switch? would that effect anything?
Thanks
Chip,
ReplyDeleteWhat's a "priming switch"?
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteTan,
ReplyDeleteI guess it's possible to replicate the Raider's slam-fire components to somehow fit and work in a Recon... though it'll be alot simpler (and easier) to just buy a Raider or Alpha Trooper instead.
SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteIn my recon stock, I used a Longshot front gun spring as an internal power stock. After some usage with my recon, the bolt sled broke, probably due to the added force set upon the plastic bolt sled. (I posted my recon problem in your recon mod guide, which was very helpful, thanks!)I was wondering if the breakage could be duplicated in the raider. If i used my recon stock with the longshot spring in it with my raider, would the bolt sled break? thanks.
Justin,
ReplyDeleteYes, the Raider boltsled is also subjected to similar stress with heavier load springs, there is a chance the parts can break over time too.
I've not used the spring combination that you mentioned, so i guess you'll just have to test it out and see (it'll also depends abit on luck too). :)
sg nerf,
ReplyDeletewhat part of the nerf recon must you pad after taking out the AR
how do you trim the internal casing thing?
ReplyDeletejoshuapopadinoski,
ReplyDeleteAs mentioned in my mod guide, the soft padding is attached to the base of the plunger. You can see a photo of it in the guide.
black,
ReplyDeleteJust use a hobby knife to cut away the plastic, along with sandpaper or a sanding file to smoothen the edges.
does the trimming need to only be applied for the raider or any other nerf guns like the recon can be also trimmed?
ReplyDeleteblack,
ReplyDeleteTrimming of the internal casing is more important for the Raider as it somehow has less space in that area for springs with thicker wire, but for any other blaster, if you find that there is not enough space too, then their internal casings can also be trimmed until the fit is good.
If I'm not doing a spring replacement, do i still need to pad the plunger?
ReplyDeleteDalton,
ReplyDeleteYes, once the air restrictor is removed (even if the spring used is still stock), plunger padding is required to help cushion the unbuffered impacts during firing.
If not properly padded, the chances of plunger damage and breakage is much higher.
how do you get the pin out? because I can't get it out!
ReplyDeleteMadSuperCrazyMan,
ReplyDeleteJust use a suitable sized precision screwdriver and a hammer, then carefully knock out the metal pin securing the bolt attachment point.
Ok thanks, and when you take out the AR does the bullet still stay in place? And can I use tissue instead of foam pads?
ReplyDeleteMadSuperCrazyMan,
ReplyDeleteYes, the foam darts will still chamber and fire properly after the ARs are removed.
Its better to use soft foam padding material to cushion the plunger, tissue paper is too light and wouldn't provide sufficient impact absorption.
Its me again! I have stretched the spring, but I haven't taken out the AR, and it seems harder to pull back the pump bit when I fire it so is there a way of making the spring less stretched?
ReplyDeleteMadSuperCrazyMan,
ReplyDeleteStretching the spring is not a proper way to mod blasters, that damages the spring and warps the original shape, which in turn interferes with movement of the plunger.
Once you have stretched a spring, it cannot be un-stretched back to its normal shape. So i guess you'll just have to replace it with another spring.
If you want more power, it is recommended to replace it with a heavier load spring that has the right dimensions to fit the plunger instead.
SG Nerf - Thank you for another easy to follow guide to making big boys toys better. :-)
ReplyDeleteI modded my raider today, an easy one when following your guide, re-assembly is a bit tricky with that sliding bar just above the trigger that kept popping out but I managed in the end and it works a treat.
How you put up with answering the same questions over and over is beyond me. You seem to have the patience of a saint. Some people should just walk away from the screwdrivers and live with what Nerf give us.
Well done for all the hard work you put in, saves us modders a load of time and wasted money, you're a star.
Adrian,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the nice feedback! I appreciate it. :)
I was wondering, not just for the raider; if I can't get my hands on many different kinds of lubrication, would motor oil ruin the o-ring like wd-40? I heard that motor oil improves the seal of the plunger... thanks.
ReplyDeleteJustin,
ReplyDeleteYou could try and see, but its still better to use proper grease that is designed to be safe for rubber o-rings and plastics.
SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteRecently while in a war, the metal rod that connects to the boltsled and the priming handle broke. It broke at the second bend/turn. I should have reinforced it beforehand, but I was wondering if you had any suggestions on fixing it.
Naturalman_7
Naturalman_7,
ReplyDeleteI guess you could try replacing it with a long metal bolt, that should be able to work too.
SG Nerf,
ReplyDeleteWhere is the trigger lock located in this blaster?
VersatileChicken,
ReplyDeleteIt should be the long plastic piece positioned horizontally under the plunger tube.
Hey SG! I'm modding my alpha trooper at the moment but I cannot get the metal retaining pin out of the bolt sled. Do you have any suggestions?
ReplyDeleteItsover9000,
ReplyDeleteJust use a small precision screwdriver and a hammer to carefully tap out the metal pin.
Hello SGNerf, I noticed that in the padding paragraph it states '...Punch a hole through the Recon Plunger!...'. I know you save time by Copy/paste-ing, so I thought you might want to know.
ReplyDelete