Mod Works

Nerf Stampede "Brass Breech" Mod Guide!

2012-01-25T13:00:00.034+08:00

This mod guide will look into my "Brass Breech" modification for the Nerf Stampede.

Introduction:

The stock stampede plastic breech does not have an air-tight bolt to barrel seal, hence the plastic bolt itself is essentially the barrel. Once the foam dart is fired out the bolt, the foam dart already starts losing power and velocity. In addition, most of the air pressure from the plunger is wasted once the foam dart leaves the bolt.

The design objective of an air-tight brass breech system is to create a 100% air-tight seal all the way from the plunger through to the barrel, thereby providing efficient air pressure delivery to propel the foam darts further.

This would result in more power within each shot, with greater firing distance and faster dart velocity.

For a Stampede brass breech to work, it requires the air-tight connection of matching brass tubes and a guide cover to ensure that all the moving parts are aligned properly.

My design is optimized to work with stefans (short length customized foam darts), although it could be adapted to use normal length foam darts, they usually wouldn't perform as accurately or consistently, and may result in much higher rates of jams.

The following guide will cover my customized version of the "Brass Breech" mod.

Credits:

My brass breech design for the Stampede is based on the excellent "PVC guide cover" design by Oxymoron at the OzNerf forum, full credit goes to him for that design.

Link to the original "Oxy's Stampede Breech" thread by Oxymoron at the OzNerf forum.

Important Note:

The "Brass Breech" mod is a more advanced mod project that should only be performed by those who are already familiar with modding the Stampede.

For new modders, please refer to my Nerf Stampede Mod Guide to get familiar with the modding basics first.

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

Lets start...

Step 1: You will need to obtain 3 different sizes of brass tubes (Brand: K&S Engineering) and a suitable PVC pipe for nesting them into.

The brass tube sizes are: 1/2", 17/32" and 9/16". All of them are 0.014" wall thickness. They are usually supplied at hobby shops in either 1 ft or 3 ft length tubes.

I use a 13mm SingaPlastics brand PVC pipe which can nest the 9/16" brass tube. This pipe will be used to create the PVC guide cover.

Note that the inner diameters (ID) of PVC pipes often tend to have variations, even within the same length of pipe, so you have to test different sections and make sure it fits the brass tubes before usage.

Its recommended to prepare and polish the brass tubes with some metal polish to remove any oxidization that may have occurred both externally and inside the tubes, this helps smoothen out the surfaces for lower friction and better fit.

As you can see, the brass tubes nest perfectly within each other and they all form an instant 100% air-tight seal. Those who have worked with brass breech systems will be very familiar with this unique characteristic. :)

Step 2:

Lets start with the PVC guide cover, this is the most essential part of the Stampede brass breech system. The guide cover ensures that the moving brass bolt chambers each foam dart into the barrel properly and consistently.

Take the PVC pipe and mount the N-Strike clip on it.

Use a marker to trace the outline of the clip's shape.

Use a Dremel with cut-off wheel to cut out the traced lines.

As the top section of the guide cover ends up being a rather thin strip of PVC (which will tend to flex too much), i cut out another shaped part from a larger 16mm SingaPlastics brand PVC pipe which is then glued on the top to further reinforce and stiffen that section.

The PVC guide cover is done!

Step 3:

Now we proceed on to the brass barrel section.

In my example, i use a 21 cm length (8+ inch) of 9/16" brass tube as the barrel. It is nested and glued into the PVC guide cover.

Use a Dremel with sanding bit to bevel the inner edges of the brass barrel, this creates a funnel design to enable smoother chambering of the foam darts and brass bolt.

I positioned the barrel and guide cover assembly to align with the internal dimensions of the Stampede, an additional PVC pipe was nested at the front of the barrel to help keep it in line with the Stampede's front casing structure piece.

The orange collar piece is also positioned and glued to the PVC guide cover to establish a fixed securing point to the blaster casing.

The brass barrel section is done!

Step 4:

Next we proceed to the brass bolt section.

Use a pipe cutter to cut away the stock plastic bolt, as shown in this photo.

To make the brass bolt parts, separately cut out a set of brass tube sections in the following lengths:

1/2" brass tube: 11 cm
17/32" brass tube: 2 cm (2 x spacer sections)
9/16" brass tube : 9 cm

These are my custom tube measurements for the Stampede brass breech system.

These measurements need to be as accurate as possible. Any variations may affect the overall structure and air seal of the breech system.

Used a Dremel with sanding bit to bevel the outer edges of the brass bolt front section, this will help to further enable smoother chambering of the foam darts and brass bolt into the brass barrel.

Here is my Nested Brass Tubes Cut-Away Diagram:

Nest the assembled brass bolt into the plunger casing.

Use the strongest glue you can get to glue everything together. I use "Selleys Super Strength" 2-part slow-curing epoxy glue (curing time of 3 days!). Make sure the glue cures completely for maximum bond strength.

Note that the 1/2" brass tube acts as the air channel and helps to reduce dead space, but not too much to create an air restriction.

The 17/32" brass tube will chamber the foam dart and connect into the 9/16" brass barrel, this is what creates the 100% air seal.

The brass bolt section is done!

Step 5:

Sleeve the brass bolt into the PVC guide cover. Test the parts movement and connection with the brass barrel.

The brass bolt must be able to move smoothly within the PVC guide cover without resistance.

If there is resistance, use a Dremel with sanding bit to widen the inner diameter (ID) of the PVC guide cover until it fits.

When the 17/32" brass bolt connects into the 9/16" brass barrel, it should have a 100% air-tight seal. Test the seal by closing the breech, then manually compressing the plunger while blocking the barrel exit, there should be resistance felt in the plunger rod.

Next, install all the parts into the Stampede.

Test the parts fit and test the movement of the brass bolt. Make sure everything moves smoothly.

If there are parts which encounter resistance, either loosen or trim the fit and test again.

Assemble everything together, keep testing the movement of the parts as you assemble the blaster.

Its completed!

Here are some close-ups of the breech system:

Awesome!

Stampede Brass Breech - Demo & Test Fire Video:

Sample Test Fire Results:

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 6 darts).

Brass Breech Stampede (9kg Load Spring)
Ammo: Customized FBR foam + 1.1 gram soft silicone tip weight
PTG = 95-105 ft
ATG = 120-130 ft

Note that the test was done indoors with customized foam darts and the results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

Important User Tips:

- Short length customized stefans work best with this breech system, make sure that the stefans used are in perfect condition and fit the brass barrel properly (not too narrow or not too wide). In addition, ensure that the back portions of the stefans are rounded without any excess foam sticking out which might get clipped by the brass breech when it closes. Taking care of these various factors will greatly reduce the chances of jamming.

- With the clip and trigger locks removed, do not put your fingers into the breech section when the blaster when the brass breech is in operation, as this can result in injuries.

- The better the foam dart fit in the brass barrel, the better the range results.

Variants:

For fans of minimized Stampedes... check out the brass breech mod done on my "SMG" Variant!

Note the extra length of PVC pipe and coupler covering the brass barrel in front, it is designed to cover the brass tube edges for safety in Nerf games. :)

Nerf Rayven - Mod Guide!

2011-12-27T14:00:00.026+08:00

This Mod Guide will cover some performance mods for the Nerf Rayven.

Mods covered:
- Voltage Increase
- Stefan Compatibility
- Access Hatch Removal

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

:: Voltage Increase ::

As the Rayven is a flywheel based blaster, the faster the flywheel motors spin the faster foam darts get fired out, hence longer range and faster dart velocity.

To increase the speed of the motors, simply increase the voltage feed.

In my examples, i use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) in my modded Barricades. The batteries can be sourced from specialist electronics stores or online sites.

14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion TrustFire rechargeable batteries are usually charged up to 4.2V, so i use various configurations (along with dummy AA batteries to fill in the empty slots if required).

The Rayven has 4 x battery slots (one slot more than in a Barricade), this allows for additional voltage increase options without the need to mod the battery compartment.

In the photo above (from left to right), the voltage configurations are at 8.4V, 12.6V and 16.8V.

I have noticed that the Rayven's stock motors can run on 16.8V without the inbuilt safety thermistor cutting off the power, therefore it seems to have a much higher voltage and current tolerance than compared to the Barricade.

See the test fire video below for the range results based on these various increased voltages.

Note that normal Alkaline batteries have limited discharge rates, and may therefore perform differently at the same voltage compared to these unprotected TrustFire Li-Ion batteries.

:: Stefan Compatibility & Access Hatch Removal ::

As most experienced nerfers will know, stock streamline foam darts are too unbalanced and inconsistent to be usable in Nerf games, especially with modded blasters. They naturally tend to swerve unpredictably in flight. There isn't much point shooting far when the shots can't actually hit anything reliably.

Most modders prefer to use "stefans" instead (short length customized and calibrated foam darts), as they provide more consistent performance and much higher accuracy. For clip-fed blasters, stefan compatible clips would be required.

For reference, you can find an example of a stefan compatible clip using the "guide rod" design Here.

We shall now look into modding the Rayven to be able to fire stefans. At the same time, removing the access hatch to allow for a clearer view of the firing process and for quicker jam clearing.

Step 1: Disassemble your Rayven. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing and internal components.

Step 2: Remove the dart pusher stalk and drill a hole through the middle of it. Prepare a suitable length of bolt to become a "stalk extender".

In my example, i used a 4cm length threaded steel bolt.

Step 3: Install the bolt into the dart pusher stalk. Use a bolt nut to secure it properly.

If required, this "stalk extender" mod is easily reversible, simply uninstall the bolt to revert it back to stock condition and you can use normal length foam darts again. :)

Step 4: Remove the access hatch piece. Use a strip of tape to wrap around the pressure switch so that it is kept activated. This mod is also reversible too.

Step 5: Install all the parts back into the casing. It should look like this.

Step 6: Adjust the reach of the new "stalk extender" so that it can push the stefans forward properly.

Step 7: For those who create their stefan clips using the "guide rod" design, you will need to extend the guide rod higher until it reaches just below the top-most stefan, this is the prevent the moving dart pusher stalk from dragging subsequent advancing stefans too far back during usage and causing jams.

In my example, i used a short length of wooden rod wedged into my stefan clip's existing guide rod. This is also easily uninstalled, so that it can still be usable for other clip-fed blasters too.

Step 8: Its completed!

Now you have a semi-auto + clip-fed + stefan-compatible blaster!

:: Modified Nerf Rayven - Demo & Range Test Video ::

Notice that the streamlines have a much wider left/right shot spread radius, so they tend to be rather inaccurate at longer ranges.

Calibrated stefans have a much narrower left/right shot spread radius, so their overall accuracy is much better and more consistent.

Also note that there is a fair amount of range variation when the blaster is fired quickly, this is likely due to the flywheels slowing down momentarily between each shot, therefore the key to firing such blasters is to regulate the rate-of-fire for more consistent ranges.

In addition, at higher voltages like 16.8V, the flywheels spin so fast that there tends to be an increased rate of slippage and mis-fires, which results in rather unpredictable shots.

So far in my tests, i've found the most ideal voltage to be at 12.6V for a more reliable combination of improved range and shot consistency.

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

Ranges are PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation).
Distance is measured at where the shot lands (Average of 18 shots).

Stock Rayven (6.0 Volts)
Range = 25-30 ft

Modded Rayven (8.4 Volts)
Range = 35-45 ft

Modded Rayven (12.6 Volts)
Range = 60-70ft

Modded Rayven (16.8 Volts)
Range = 80-100ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with either stock streamlines or calibrated stefans. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

:: Summary & Game Usage ::

Having tested out modded Rayvens in a few Nerf games, i've found it to be quite a versatile blaster for fast-paced gameplay. Its compact form factor is easy to handle and very maneuverable.

The clip-fed system makes a big difference in being able to sustain continuous firepower over extended game rounds (just be sure to equip more spare clips), and the capability to use stefans greatly increases the shot accuracy and hit rate over longer firing distances.

In addition, you can instantly double the fun by dual-wielding 2 x modded Rayvens too! :)
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Nerf Rayven - Internals Guide!

2011-12-25T21:00:00.000+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Rayven CS-18.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Rayven, click Here .

Nerf Rayven - Disassembled

Nerf Rayven - Internals Layout

Nerf Rayven - Internals Layout (Front)

Nerf Rayven - Internals Layout (Back)

Nerf Rayven - Flywheel System Detail

Nerf Rayven - Motor Comparison with Tamiya Plasma Dash Motor

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Stefan Compatible 18-Dart Clip - Mod Guide!

2011-11-17T14:00:00.020+08:00

Most modders who custom make their own foam darts for better accuracy and range use shorter length foam darts which are commonly referred to as "stefans".

The stock N-Strike clip design isn't compatible with shorter length foam darts, as they tend to shift back and forth within the excess space during usage which causes jams (especially in longer clips), so modifications have to be done on the clips to fit them properly.

I've been using stefan compatible clips of various designs for quite a while, but the simplest and most effective design that i've tried out so far is the "guide rod" design.

The "guide rod" design is based on the clip modding technique by JustSomeBob at the NerfRevolution forum and WicketTheModder at the NerfHaven forum.

It is basically a rod that runs the length of the clip and nests within a collar in a hole drilled in the clip's spring loaded dart pusher, this rod keeps the stefans in position throughout. The dart pusher is constantly guided by the rod as it advances the stefans up into the bolt.

In addition, i also make a "slot window" on my modded clips, so that i can view the ammo count too.

Lets start...

Step 1:

The materials i used for this clip mod are as follows.

- 18-dart clip
- 5mm OD K&S brass tube (for the guide rod)
- 6mm OD K&S brass tube (for the guide collar)
- Dremel 767-01
- Selleys super strong 2-part epoxy glue

You can substitute the materials and tools with other similar items, just adapt them to your requirements.

Step 2:

Open up the 18-dart clip casing. As the 18-dart clip casing is usually glued together, use a Dremel to cut along the side of the clip casing. Make sure the cuts are straight and even.

Remember to remove the 2 black machine screws at the bottom of the clip and detach the rubber feet too.

Step 3:

Measure the position of the guide rod based on the length of your stefans.

Step 4:

Mark the measured point on the clip's dart pusher, then drill a hole in it to fit the guide collar.

Step 5:

For the guide rod, cut a 26cm length of 5mm OD brass tube.

For the guide collar, cut a 3cm length of 6mm OD brass tube.

The 5mm OD guide rod will nest inside the 6mm OD guide collar.

Step 6:

Glue the 3cm length of 6mm OD guide collar into the drilled hole in the dart pusher.

Step 7:

Glue the 26cm length of 5mm OD guide rod onto the bottom of the clip casing, make sure it is nested inside and aligned with the guide collar too.

Step 8:

This is what the completed clip internals will look like.

Test and ensure that the dart pusher is able to move upwards and downwards smoothly.

Step 9:

Create a slot window to view the ammo count.

Use a Dremel to cut out a strip of plastic along the clip casing.

Step 10:

Once everything is ready, re-assemble the clip with epoxy glue (use rubber bands to clamp the casing securely during curing).

Step 11:

Its done!

Check the ammo count by viewing the slot window. :)

--

Loaded in a modded minimized Stampede.

Loaded in a modded brass breeched + shotgun gripped Longshot.

Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm - Mod Guide!

2011-10-21T15:30:00.029+08:00

This Mod Guide will cover some performance mods for the Nerf Speedswarm.

Mods covered:
- Air Restrictor (AR) Removal
- Plunger Air Release Seal
- Plunger Padding & O-Ring Replacement
- Voltage Increase
- Aftermarket Spring Replacement (Optional)
- Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal (Optional)

Note: Most of the modding steps are similar to the Nerf Swarmfire Mod.

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

:: AR Removal ::

Step 1: Disassemble your Speedswarm. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing layers.

Step 2: Open the motorized spring plunger casing. Move aside the cover, rotating barrel and battery sled.

Step 3: Separate all the spring plunger parts and gear components.

Step 4: Take the plunger tube and use a rotating pipe cutter to cut the front section. Make sure the cut line is positioned over the blue area under the white plunger tube casing.

Rotate the pipe cutter 2-3 times, and try to pull apart the plunger tube. If it doesn't move, rotate the pipe cutter again, do not over-tighten the pipe cutter! Keep testing. It will eventually separate into two parts and the AR will just drop out.

Discard the AR components and glue the plunger cap back on with 2-part epoxy glue.

Alternatively, the AR can also be drilled out with a motorized drill or dremel. Just make sure the plunger and seals are not damaged in the process.

Note that the white colored "target" shaped plastic grill inside the plunger tube has to be intact, that part is required as an impact barrier for the plunger rod.

The AR removal mod is done!

:: Plunger Air Release Seal ::

Close up the air relief hole on the side of the plunger tube. This is essential to create an air-tight plunger seal.

In my example, i use 2-part epoxy glue to fill in the air relief hole.

:: Plunger Padding & O-Ring Replacement ::

Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on tube impact.

This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger and tube casing, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impacts on the tube (hence the loud cracking sound during firing) over time, the plunger and tube may become damaged.

Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.

In the following photo, i attached a cut-out piece of soft foam bumper padding to the tip of the plunger.

To test the plunger air seal, block the tube exit and try to push the plunger rod into the plunger casing, if the air seal is optimized, there should be some resistance in the plunger. It should also still be able to move smoothly when the tube exit is not blocked.

If the plunger seal is loose, simply replace the stock o-ring with a more air-tight aftermarket o-ring.

:: Voltage Increase ::

The voltage feed to the Speedswarm's motor determines its speed.

To increase the Speedswarm's Rate of Fire (RoF), simply increase the amount of voltage to its motor.

There are many different types of batteries available to create higher voltage power sources, its up to the users to determine which setups suit their usage best.

In my examples, i choose to use 14500 size Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions).

Such batteries can be installed in the original Speedswarm battery sled without additional modification. I just use dummy AA battery spacers to fill the empty slots.

14500 size 3.7V TrustFire unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries can be charged up to 4.2V each, so i use 4 of them (with an additional 2 dummy spacers) to get around 16.8V of power.

:: Aftermarket Spring Replacement (Optional) ::

One way to increase the speed of air delivery through the plunger tube is to replace the stock spring with a stronger aftermarket spring.

Photo Top: Stock Spring / Photo Bottom: 10kg load Spring

Note that due to the thicker spring wire of stronger aftermarket springs, the plunger rod's 4 plastic strut "fins" at the front will need to be trimmed abit narrower so that the spring can fit over the rod properly (or else the spring will end up sitting too far back).

Note that i use TrustFire 14500 unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries. These unprotected Li-Ion batteries have high discharge rates which are necessary to provide the required torque to the motor to handle heavier spring loads.

Be advised that regular Alkaline batteries may not have high enough discharge rates (separate factor from voltage) to enable the motor to pull such heavier spring loads.

Due to the smaller size of the Speedswarm's motor, it generates less torque and speed compared to the larger motors found in the Swarmfire or Stampede, hence even with the voltage increase, a heavier spring tends to slow down its rate-of-fire (RoF) alot... therefore after much testing, i reverted my units back to stock spring setups as i preferred to maintain a higher RoF configuration.

:: Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal (Optional) ::

This mod is also optional, it is mainly for users who want to be able to use solid core DIY foam darts (ie. stefans) or as a modding step before re-barrel mods.

Detach the rotating barrel from the casing.

Use a wire cutter to remove the dart posts.

Note that the dart post removal mod does not affect power or range significantly, it just allows more flexibility in the usage of various DIY foam dart designs.

:: Modified Nerf Speedswarm - Range Test Video ::

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the shot lands (Average of 10 shots).

Stock Speedswarm
PTG = 20 ft
ATG = 30 ft

Modded Speedswarm (AR Removal & Voltage Increase)
PTG = 50 ft
ATG = 60 ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with customized foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

:: Summary & Game Usage ::

After using the Speedswarm in Nerf games, i've found that it is most effective when equipped as a close quarter sidearm. Thanks to its compact form factor, it can be easily holstered in a belt pouch or even in a large side pocket (can't holster a Swarmfire as easily).

For players who use long range blasters which require additional time to prime or pump up between shots, a holstered Speedswarm can be quickly drawn to counter opponents who advance too near... thats a potential lifesaver (and game changer) for many players! :)
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Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm - Internals Guide!

2011-10-09T20:00:00.002+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Speedswarm, click Here .

Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm - Casing Removed

Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm - Internal Layout

Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm - Internal Components

Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm - Motor System

Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm - Direct Spring Plunger

Nerf Dart Tag Speedswarm - Direct Plunger Internals

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Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Review!

2011-09-22T14:00:00.024+08:00

With the Nerf Longshot being such a popular blaster for aftermarket spring mods, its common to encounter their stock bolt sleds cracking or breaking under the heavier load after prolonged usage. Thats when a stronger bolt sled would be needed.

Check out the Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled!

It is made from a customized resin material and the L-joint arms section of the bolt sled have been re-worked with a thicker profile to withstand the stress effects of heavier spring loads.

Along with its non-metal construction, it is very light-weight and all the parts edges are smoothly molded to exacting detail. This allows the bolt sled to fit perfectly into Longshot casings without requiring any further trimming or adjustments.

The boltsled was tested with 14kg load aftermarket springs and it showed very little noticeable signs of flexing or stress marks over 100+ repeated priming. So it looks to be suitable for such spring loads.

Tests with 20+ kg springs do show some flexing and slight bending in the bolt sled during priming movements. Although it is more durable compared to the stock bolt sled, its not indestructible... so users should also consider using customized shotgun grips to balance out the load stress on the bolt sled.

Thanks to wrxloonie at the NerfSG forum for sending over a set for review!

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Top

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Bottom

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Middle

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Comparison with Stock Bolt Sled

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Close-Up Comparison

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - L-joint Arm Comparison

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Fitment with Bolt & Plunger Tube

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Fitment in Blaster Casing

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Assembled

Xplorer Custom Fabricated Longshot Bolt Sled - Parts & Fitment Video

For those keen on these custom fabricated bolt sleds, check with wrxloonie at the NerfSG forum. :)

Nerf Vortex Blaster Spring Relocation - Mod Guide!

2011-09-17T13:30:00.024+08:00

This Mod Guide will cover the popular Spring Relocation Mod for the Nerf Vortex Proton, Vigilon and Praxis.

All 3 blasters use the same torsion spring powered disc launching system, so their modding methods are the similiar.

This mod is quite straightforward, simply disassemble the blaster casing and access the launcher mechanism, then relocate the torsion spring's securing leg one mounting point to the left. This increases the initial load in the torsion spring, thereby increasing the power of the shot.

Here are the reference photos for the spring relocation mods:

Nerf Vortex Proton [Internals]:

Note: You can also relocate the spring to the furthest left mounting point for additional load too.

Nerf Vortex Vigilon [Internals]:

Nerf Vortex Praxis [Internals]:

The spring relocation mod improves ranges on average by around 15ft. Quite effective for such an easy mod. :)

In addition, torsion springs with higher loads could also be used too. Here are examples of custom made aftermarket torsion springs for comparison:

Left to Right: Stock spring, 30% stronger spring, 120% stronger spring.

The stock torsion springs are already very strong in the first place, so i was only able to get the 30% stronger springs to fit and work properly... the other springs i tested with even higher loads were way too difficult to install and the internal components could not take the stress, which resulted in numerous cracked and broken parts in my test units.

With the 30% stronger spring installed, ranges improved by another approx. 10ft (over and above the spring relocation mod).

Note that wear and tear on the internal parts will naturally be much higher (especially with stronger springs), so modders will have to consider between performance improvements vs the lifespan of the blaster parts. :)

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

Ranges are PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation).
Distance is measured at where the disc lands (Average of 10 discs).

Vortex Proton/Vigilon/Praxis (Stock)
Average range = 55-65ft

Vortex Proton/Vigilon/Praxis (Spring Relocated)
Average range = 70-80ft

Vortex Proton/Vigilon/Praxis (Spring Relocated + Stronger Spring)
Average range = 80-90ft

Note that the test was done indoors with standard Vortex foam discs. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

Epoxy Resin Cast Blaster Parts - Build Guide!

2011-09-12T15:30:00.033+08:00

Wouldn't it be useful to be able to easily replicate and make your own replacement blaster parts? or perhaps even custom make parts too?

The common method to make replacement parts amongst modders usually involves cutting shapes out of polycarbonate sheets, but that requires a fair amount of work with special tools, along with lots of polycarbonate dust flying everywhere.

The other method is to contract a custom parts fabrication company to do it, but that requires dealing with minimum order quantities and higher monetary expenditures, not really cost efficient for simple blaster parts.

Therefore i was looking at an easier (and cost effective) method to make detailed parts as and when required.

With this objective in mind, i looked into a technique that is commonly used in many scale model hobbies to make replicated parts = Epoxy Resin Casting.

I've seen modders use epoxy resin to reinforce joints or to fill up empty spaces in blaster casings, but i've not yet seen anyone actually make working detailed blaster parts using epoxy resin.

So i tested out the epoxy resin cast method and it works!http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif

Here is the build process...

- Make the Casting Mold -

In my example, i use EasyMold Silicone Putty to make the casting mold, so my process will be based on this particular product.

Once a silicone mold is made, the same mold can be used repeatedly for casting many parts.

There are other similar silicone mold brands that can also be used too, just follow the instructions specific to those products.

Step 1:

Mix 2 equal parts of the silicone putty components. Knead the mixture until the color is uniform.

You will need to work fast as the EasyMold Silicone Putty compound has a very short working time.

Step 2:

For this example, i will be casting a PAS trigger.

Press the original plastic PAS trigger into the prepared silicone compound, make sure it sits completely in the putty and creates a detailed impression.

Note thats this is a one part mold. For functionality and simplicity, i only needed to replicate the right side of the trigger as thats the side that requires part detail for the catch spring to mount on.

For more detailed molds, 2 part molds can also be made by creating the mold in 2 stages with enclosed mold pieces.

Step 3:

After 20+ minutes, the silicone mold will cure enough that you can remove the original part.

Leave the silicone mold to cure further for a minimum 24 hours... then its ready for usage.

- Make the Epoxy Resin Cast Part -

For the casting material, i used high strength 2-part epoxy resin. The epoxy resin does not adhere to the silicone mold so its suitable as a casting material.

I've tested various epoxy resin and they all vary in strength depending on the intended application. Since the part i intend to make undergoes high mechanical stress loads, i found that Devcon "Plastic Steel" Epoxy worked well, as it has good tensile and shear strength.

Step 1:

Mix the 2-part epoxy resin and hardener until it has a uniform color, then apply the mixture into the silicone mold in layers until it is completely filled.

Make sure to fill up the mold completely so that there are no unfilled spaces or air bubbles trapped inside.

Let the epoxy resin cure for 6-8 hours (cure time will depend on environmental conditions).

Step 2:

After the epoxy resin cast part has cured, remove it from the mold. Just flex the silicone mold slightly and the part will pop out.

Trim off any mold lines or excess epoxy resin material with a hobby knife or sanding file.

Here is a comparison of the epoxy resin cast trigger versus the original plastic trigger.

If the cast part comes out with lots of holes (looking like swiss cheese), then it's probably due to too many gaps and air bubbles introduced during the mold filling process.

Just mix a small amount of epoxy resin again to fill in those holes and let it cure further.

Step 3:

Fit the epoxy resin cast part to the blaster, it should have a perfect fitment.

Do any further trimming or adjustments as required, then you can start using it.

Since you can re-use the silicone mold many times, just cast a new part anytime as and when needed! :)

Application Demo Video:

Summary:

So far, i've tested the epoxy resin cast PAS triggers and they were able to handle up to 20+ kg load main springs. The catches worked perfectly over hundreds of shots, so it looks like they can be suitable and durable replacements for other load bearing parts too.

Yes... its indeed possible to make epoxy resin cast blaster parts! :)
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PAS - Speed Modding Challenge!

2011-09-03T06:00:00.000+08:00

Experienced modders who have worked on the ERTL Pump Action Shotgun (PAS) will know how easy it is to convert it from firing its original foam ball ammo to firing customized foam dart ammo... and most have experienced the nice 90-100ft ranges that can be easily achieved even with just the stock spring and plunger seal (especially when matched with the right foam dart and barrel setup).

But exactly how fast can it be done?

This "speed modding challenge" came about a while back when one of my colleagues got his brand new PAS in the mail, then he proceeded to open the box and mod his unit on the spot, so we quickly took the opportunity to time the entire conversion process. As the conversion mod is easily reversible, it eventually became a sort of fun competition amongst the guys to see who can mod faster!

Some new modders wonder how a PAS can be modded quickly and easily, so i created a demo video to show how its done.

Here is how to transform a 15ft range foam ball blaster into a 90-100ft range foam dart blaster... in just 3 minutes! :)

Yeah, it kinda makes modding most other blasters look way too time consuming and tedious in comparison (to achieve similar ranges). :)

SGN-8T : Modular PVC Turret Design - Build Guide!

2011-08-20T11:00:00.017+08:00

This was a side project that i worked on back in 2010, i completed almost 90% of it, but ended up shelving the parts 'cos i shifted my focus onto other modding projects.

Recently, i've been modding a few blasters which came in single barrel designs, they have great performance but with all the new blasters available nowadays with much higher ammo capacity and RoF, single barrel blasters tend to be at a slight disadvantage in Nerf games, so i resumed working on modular PVC turret designs to further improve the effectiveness of those single barrel blasters.

Some modders may have also seen the excellent 8-shot turrets made by SorrowX at the NerfHaven forum, he used a 3D printer to create his turret parts and the result is nicely made parts... though unfortunately the parts creation process itself is largely inaccessible to most of us modders.

My modular turret design aims to achieve a similar goal, except that it does not require a 3D printer, just PVC pipes and epoxy glue. :)

Here is the process...

Step 1:

These are the basic materials and tools that you'll need.

- 13mm / 16mm / 20mm SingaPlastics PVC Pipes (Thinwall Versions)
- 1/2" PETG Tubes (.528" ID / .572" OD)
- 2-Part Epoxy Glue (I use Selleys Super Strong Epoxy Glue)
- Pipe Cutter

Note that all the pipes and tubes i use are able to nest within each other. This turret design is built around those material specifications.

Its also possible to make this turret with non-nesting pipes and tubes too, you'll just have to adapt the parts to fit and align with each other.

Step 2:

We will start with the barrel spacers first.

For each barrel spacer, cut 8 x 1cm length 13mm PVC pipe and 1 x 1cm length 20mm PVC pipe. Ensure that the cuts are even and matching, avoid making angled or uneven cuts.

Use the pipe cutter's reaming tool or a hobby knife to trim off any sharp bits sticking out, so that the barrel spacer ports have a smooth surface.

Position the smaller pipe rings in a balanced circle around the central large pipe ring, then fill the space in between with epoxy glue. Constantly make sure that the parts are all aligned properly.

I did the gluing process in stages. The glue is applied in successive layers, each time the glue is properly cured for a few hours before the next layer is applied. After 3-4 layers, the space will be filled in nicely and forms a very tough bond between the parts.

Do this twice to create 2 x barrel spacers.

Step 3:

Next will be the PETG barrel assembly.

In my example, i use 1ft length barrels.

Cut 8 x 1ft PETG tubes and slot them into the barrel spacers, check that they are all aligned.

Do NOT glue the barrels in yet! We still need to mount the barrels onto the main turret assembly later.

Step 4:

This is the main component of the turret system, which comprises of the connection and turret rotation points.

Cut 1 x 4.5cm length 16mm PVC pipe, 1 x 2cm length 20mm PVC pipe and 1 x 2cm length 16mm PVC pipe.

Epoxy glue them together vertically, make sure they are aligned with the barrel spacer positions.

Step 5:

Build up the rest of the turret fitment parts.

Note that i design my turret connection point to connect to 20mm pipe couplers which i use in all my modded blasters, if you use other kinds of couplers, you'll have to adjust accordingly.

Cut 1 x 2cm length 20mm PVC pipe (as the connection point), 1 x 4.5cm length 13mm PVC pipe (to slot into the main nozzle to reduce deadspace), 1 x 5cm length 16mm PVC pipe (as the barrel spacer holder and rotation point) and 1 x 1cm length 13mm PVC pipe (as a base for the bottom turret "barrel stopper", explained later).

Epoxy glue everything in.

Step 6:

Prepare the turret system.

Cut out a suitable sized ring of foam padding and attach it on the top nozzle for the turret seal, put a rubber o-ring around the middle rotation point (i used a Nerf Stampede o-ring, apply grease to it so that the rotation is smooth) and stack some foam inside the bottom section along with a dome shaped stopper (i used a plastic button from a coat).

The dome shaped part at the bottom acts as a "barrel stopper", when the turret turns, the stopper will be pushed back and compress the foam behind, then when the next barrel is in position, the stopper pops back forward and locks the barrel in place.

My earlier designs used a toothed clutch system, but i found that too troublesome to make (alot of tedious precision cutting of the PVC sections needed), and they were not really required since there isn't an integrated auto-rotation mechanism anyways.... the system just required something simple to hold the barrels in place.

Step 7:

Connect the turret system to the barrel assembly.

I used 1 x 1cm length 16mm PVC pipe as a fastening collar to secure both components together, bolted on with 2 x machine screws. This also facilitates easy changing of parts if required.

The fit of the fastening collar is very important, make sure it secures the parts tightly (but still allowing smooth rotation with the o-ring), this keeps the barrel assembly constantly level with the air exit nozzle at the top section. This is essential to achieve 100% turret air-seal.

The barrels can now be glued in permanently if you wish... but in my case i leave them secured by friction fit, i've test fired hundreds of shots and they all still stay in position (just adding an extra layer of tape on the looser barrels did the trick), so i can also have the option to change the barrels anytime if needed.

Every barrel has been tested with 100% turret air-seal, the plunger stops mid-way when the barrel is blocked and it can even vacuum load foam darts too. :)

Completed SGN-8T : Modular PVC Turret!

Here is an example of the Modular PVC Turret fitted on a modded PAS with a 20mm coupler connection... i call it PAS-8T.

Rear loading ammo slots, 3 on each side = 6 rear loading slots in total.

The turret can be easily swapped between blasters with compatible coupler connections. :)

Demo Video!

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Nerf Vortex Praxis - Internals Guide!

2011-08-19T19:30:00.000+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Vortex Praxis.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Vortex Praxis, click Here.

Nerf Vortex Praxis - Casing Disassembled

Nerf Vortex Praxis - Internals Layout

Nerf Vortex Praxis - Internals Layout Close Up

Nerf Vortex Praxis - Disc Launcher Mechanism

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Nerf Vortex Vigilon - Internals Guide!

2011-08-18T15:00:00.000+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Vortex Vigilon.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Vortex Vigilon, click Here.

Nerf Vortex Vigilon - Casing Disassembled

Nerf Vortex Vigilon - Internal Layout

Nerf Vortex Vigilon - Disc launcher Mechanism (Front View)

Nerf Vortex Vigilon - Disc launcher Mechanism (Back View)

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Nerf Vortex Proton - Internals Guide!

2011-08-17T17:30:00.000+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Vortex Proton.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Vortex Proton, click Here.

Nerf Vortex Proton - Casing Disassembled

Nerf Vortex Proton - Internal Layout

Nerf Vortex Proton - Disc Launcher Mechanism (Front View)

Nerf Vortex Proton - Disc Launcher Mechanism (Back View)

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Mortar Pistol - Re-barrel Mod Guide!

2011-08-11T15:00:00.038+08:00

This mod guide will look into re-barreling the Mortar Pistol to convert it from firing large foam "slug" ammo to firing foam darts.

For more information about the Mortar Pistol, read my review of it Here.

Okay, lets start the re-barreling process...

Step 1:

Open the blaster casing and separate the turret from the main body.

Disassemble all the turret parts.

Step 2:

Trim the machine screw ports inside the yellow barrel holder piece, this is to allow more space for the additional air tank-to-turret seal that will be needed to optimize performance.

Step 3:

Create holders to form a secure point to attach the new barrels.

In my example, i cut 13mm SingaPlastics PVC pipes into 6 pieces of 1cm length sections, then i glued them on with high strength 2-part epoxy glue. These PVC pipe sections are an air-tight slot fit for the 1 ft length PETG tubes what i will be using as barrels.

Make sure the epoxy glue has fully cured for maximum strength before use.

Step 4:

Cut out large slot sections at the back of the blue turret piece, this will allow the barrels to be rear loaded.

Step 5:

Install a ring of foam material to create an improved seal between the air tank and turret. I nested and glued the original nozzle into a 1/2" SCH40 Clear PVC pipe section, so that there is a secure base for the foam material to be attached on.

Step 6:

Put everything back together and its completed!

In my unit, i made an additional custom barrel spacer to further support the PETG barrels. It was created by cutting 6 x 1cm length 13mm SingaPlastics PVC pipe sections (to hold the barrels) and 3 x 1cm length 16mm SingaPlastics PVC pipe sections (to link the barrel holders).

All of the PVC pipe sections were then positioned and glued together with high strength 2-part epoxy glue to form a customized PVC "ring" design barrel spacer. :)

Here is a view of the rear loading slots from the left side of the blaster.

The Mortar Pistol fires from its top barrel, so just aim directly down the turret barrels to line up your shots.

With this simple re-barrel mod, the Mortar Pistol can now load and use foam darts. :)

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the shot lands (Average of 6 shots).

Air tank is filled up with 4 pumps using the stock pump.

Stock Mortar Pistol (Original barrels + Large Foam "slugs")
PTG = 15 ft
ATG = 20 ft

Re-barreled Mortar Pistol (1 ft PETG barrels + Foam darts)
PTG = 110 ft
ATG = 125 ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with custom calibrated foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

--

Update!

I've managed to test the Mortar Pistol with a hopper clip too.

As i had already installed a 1/2" SCH40 Clear PVC pipe section around the front nozzle, i could just simply connect it directly to my hopper clip, which also uses a 1/2" spec PVC wye joint!

Here is a comparison between the 6-barrel turret vs the hopper clip.

Hopper clip assembled.

Due to the nature of hopper clips, they usually require additional adjustments and testing to get the right foam dart and hopper combination to match the blaster.

Ranges depend on the hopper clip length (and consequently the amount of clip deadspace), along with the foam dart fit in the hopper system. I get around 80-100 ft with my current setup (ranges reduce as the clip empties).

Mortar Pistol - Internals Guide!

2011-08-11T11:30:00.005+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Mortar Pistol.

For a detailed review of the Mortar Pistol, click Here .

Mortar Pistol - Casing Disassembled

Mortar Pistol - Main Parts Separated

Mortar Pistol - Pump / Air Tank / Air Seal Release Assembly

Mortar Pistol - Air Seal Release Assembly Trigger Catch

Mortar Pistol - Pump / Air Tank Detached from Air Seal Release Assembly

Mortar Pistol - Pump Nested within Air Tank

Mortar Pistol - Pump / Air Tank Parts (Positions by Layer)

Mortar Pistol - Air Seal Release Assembly Parts (Positions by Layer)

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Buzz Bee Rads 12 - Internals Guide!

2011-08-01T11:30:00.003+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Buzz Bee Rads 12.

For a detailed review of the Buzz Bee Rads 12, click Here .

Buzz Bee Rads 12 - Disassembled

Buzz Bee Rads 12 - Priming & Turret Rotation Mechanisms

Buzz Bee Rads 12 - Turret Gear Mechanism

Buzz Bee Rads 12 - Plunger System

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Air Tank Blasters - Modding Systems!

2011-07-24T17:00:00.030+08:00

Just to share some systems that i've tested with air tank blasters... hopefully it can also be a useful reference for modders.

Here are 2 demo videos which show possible setups that can be incorporated into various air tank blaster mods.

Safety Valve System - Parts Demo

System Parts:
- Topeak Pump (Mini Dual G)
- Pressure Gauge
- Adjustable Pressure Release Safety Valve
- Nerf Air Tech 3000 (AT3K) Air Tank Assembly
- M6 size Pressure Rated Air Hoses
- M6 size Pressure Rated Quick Release Couplers

You'll notice in the video that i'm using a Topeak Mini Dual G (2-stage/double-action) Bike Pump, it has a max. pressure rating of 120 PSI and it only took me 2 easy pumps to reach 50 PSI with the AT3K air tank (a magstrike pump would have required 6-7 pumps to reach that PSI).

Thats one of the reasons why i had to install a safety valve in my modded AT3K units, 'cos the pump effort is so easy and light that i sometimes accidentally put extra pumps into it and end up exceeding 100 PSI, which makes the trigger so difficult to pull that i had to open the casing to disconnect the air hose just to manually release the excess air pressure. With the safety valve i can set the limits or vent the pressure externally.

Anyways, after trying out various replacement pumps, i now use the Topeak Pumps for all my modded AT3Ks, it allows the blaster to operate at a much higher RoF and with alot less effort, so i recommend it (or similiar high pressure rated double-action bike pumps) for any modder who is looking for a similiar combo.

Here is what an early setup looked like (before i installed the safety valve, which is positioned at where the goo gauge used to be):

TP3k = Topeak 3k. :)

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Constant Pressure Air Feed System - Parts Demo

System Parts:
- Topeak Pump (Mini Dual G)
- Pressure Gauge
- Adjustable Air Flow Control Valve
- Rubber Air Bladder (From Nerf RF20)
- Nerf Air Tech 3000 (AT3K) Air Tank Assembly
- M6 size Pressure Rated Air Hoses
- M6 size Pressure Rated Quick Release Couplers

For this system, its similiar to what some modders have already previously done with their "semi-auto" mods, in my example i'm using an Adjustable Air Flow Control Valve to slow down the speed of the air refill from the rubber air bladder and the AT3K air tank. The air flow valve can be adjusted larger, so that the refill will be faster in between shots, but it'll also use up more air due to the increased flow leakage during firing.

Note that the constant pressure is derived from the rubber air bladder (not the air flow control valve).

Btw, all the pressure rated components i used in these setups are sourced from my local pneumatic equipment parts supply shops... i guess you can find similiar parts quite easily from online sites too.
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Photon Storm Blaster - Mod Guide!

2011-07-11T15:00:00.015+08:00

This Mod Guide will cover some performance mods for the Photon Storm Blaster.

Mods covered:
- Voltage Increase
- Trigger Activated Power On
- Flywheel Grip Improvement

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

:: Voltage Increase ::

As the Photon Storm is a flywheel based blaster, the faster the flywheel motors spin the faster foam darts get fired out, hence longer range and faster dart velocity.

To increase the speed of the motors, simply increase the voltage feed.

In my examples, i use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) in my modded Photon Storms. The batteries can be sourced from specialist electronics stores.

14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion TrustFire rechargeable batteries are usually charged up to 4.2V, so i use 3 of them with dummy AA batteries in the remaining battery slots. This configuration provides 12.6 Volts of power to the Photon Storm's motors.

With 12.6 Volts of power, the Photon Storm's motors spin much faster and the start-up response time is also quicker.

I have also tested it with 4 x and 5 x fully charged unprotected TrustFire Li-Ion rechargeable batteries with a total of 16.8 Volts and 21 Volts respectively, the motors spin even faster but it seems to be too fast for the foam darts i used as they tend to spiral out of control or tumble in flight at those faster flywheel speeds. Modders will just have to test and see what speeds suit their foam darts.

Note that conventional Alkaline batteries have more limited discharge rates, and will therefore perform differently at the same voltage compared to these unprotected TrustFire Li-Ion batteries.

:: Trigger Activated Power On ::

Stock Photon Storms require their motors to be separately switched on, then constantly running to be able to fire.... so the motors will still be spinning even when its not firing anything.

This creates an annoying constant buzzing sound, along with the added power drain on the batteries too.

One way to solve this issue is by installing a pressure switch that is activated by the trigger pull instead.

Step 1: Open the casing and locate the the wiring that links the battery compartment and the motors.

You can choose either the red or black wire (i use the black wire). Simply cut that wire above where the tip of the "dart pusher"stalk is situated.

Get a push-to-on pressure switch that utilizes a flip/rocker action, you can source these from electronics parts supply shops.

Step 2: Solder the wiring to the push-to-on pressure switch (i added some electrical tape to further prevent the soldered connections from accidentally shorting).

Glue the pressure switch to the plastic shelf just above the "dart pusher" stalk.

Its done!

:: Flywheel Grip Improvement ::

As an optional mod, electrical or rubber tape can be wrapped around the flywheels to increase their grip for better contact with the foam darts. This can help improve performance if matched with the right foam darts.

The amount of tape layers required will depend on the foam darts used, so its up to modders to test and find the best combination of tape layers to apply.

Note that the tape needs to be applied evenly and in an equal amount (ie. both flywheels must have the exact same amount of tape material with no bumps), or else they may result in unbalanced flywheel speed and timing.

:: Modified Photon Storm - Demo Video ::

Here is a demo video for reference.

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 12 darts).

Stock Photon Storm
PTG = 25 ft
ATG = 30 ft

Modded Photon Storm (12.6 Volts & Trigger Activated Power On)
PTG = 50 ft
ATG = 60 ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with custom calibrated foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

Photon Storm Blaster - Internals Guide!

2011-07-10T18:00:00.001+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Photon Storm Blaster.

For a detailed review of the Photon Storm Blaster, click Here .

Photon Storm Blaster - Disassembled

Photon Storm Blaster - Back Section

Photon Storm Blaster - Middle Section

Photon Storm Blaster - Front Section

Photon Storm Blaster - Flywheel System Layout

Photon Storm Blaster - Motor Comparison with Tamiya Plasma Dash Motor

Doomsayer "M4 Shoulder Stock" Mod!

2011-06-20T15:00:00.008+08:00

The following write-up will look at changing the ERTL Rapid Fire Shotgun (RFSG) original kid-sized brown shoulder stock to a more practical M4 shoulder stock.

For those who are keen to know more about Doomsayers (modded RFSG), you can read the original mod guide by Forsaken_angel24 at the NerfHaven forum:

http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9845

Note that there are many methods to do shoulder stock mods on blasters, this isn't the only (or best) way, its just something i tested and worked.

Step 1:

Get your choice of replacement shoulder stock. In my case, i got a plastic replica adjustable M4 shoulder stock.

Step 2:

Use a dremel or handsaw to cut away the back portion of the RFSG, in my example i cut it at the section with the largest opening.

Ignore the 2 black pieces of plastic in the photo, its just some spare bits from part of the cut out section that i figured could be useful to cover gaps. Didn't get to use them eventually.

Step 3:

Measure and nest a length of 13mm SingaPlastics PVC pipe inside a shorter length of 16mm PVC pipe, this will become the connection point.

Open up the replacement shoulder stock and position a 13mm PVC end-cap inside, you'll have to trim and sand down the shoulder stock internals until it fits.

Step 4:

Bolt on the connection point pipes to the RFSG shell, i used 2 countersunk machine screws to secure it to the shell. Note that the shell is in 2 layers, so i bolted it to the inner layer.

Step 5:

Drill and sand out the replacement shoulder stock until it has a rounded opening to accept the connection point pipes, then glue the 13mm PVC end-cap permanently inside the replacement shoulder stock. I also added a ring of foam padding to help cover the gaps between the shoulder stock and casing.

Photo: (Left) Original replacement shoulder stock / (Right) Modded replacement shoulder stock.

Step 6:

Assemble everything back together and connect the new shoulder stock, its complete!

The plastic replica M4 shoulder stock i used is adjustable so it could be extended to different positions. Much more comfortable and steadier when shoulder aiming.

One of the main reasons why i did this mod was also because the Doomsayer was originally too long and it could not fit into any of my carrying cases or bags! I was getting sick of carrying it around in plastic bags with all the barrels sticking out! :)

With the shoulder stock being removable, it can now fit nicely into a large padded case.

Nice! :)

Nerf Stampede "SMG" Conversion!

2011-06-15T23:00:00.014+08:00

Minimized Stampede... my "SMG" version! :)

Gaps covered by assorted bits and pieces from chopped out parts (guess which parts the bits came from?).

Retained shoulder stock.

Relocated battery pack.

And this is what i call... the "SpamFire" Combo! :)

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Mod Guide!

2011-04-12T15:30:00.023+08:00

This Mod Guide will cover some performance mods for the Nerf Swarmfire.

Mods covered:
- Air Restrictor (AR) Removal
- Plunger Air Release Seal
- Plunger Padding
- O-Ring Replacement
- Voltage Increase
- Aftermarket Spring Replacement
- Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal (Optional)

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

:: AR Removal ::

Step 1: Disassemble your Swarmfire. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing layers.

Step 2: Open the motorized spring plunger casing. Move aside the cover, rotating barrel and battery sled.

Step 3: Separate all the spring plunger parts and gear components.

Step 4: Take the plunger tube and simply use flat-head precision screwdrivers to pry open the plunger cap... the AR components will just pop out.

Discard the AR components and glue the plunger cap back on with 2-part epoxy glue.

Alternatively, the AR can also be drilled out with a motorized drill or dremel. Just make sure the plunger and seals are not damaged in the process.

Left Photo: Cap Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Cap After AR Removal.

Left Photo: Tube Before AR Removal / Right Photo: Tube After AR Removal.

Note that the white colored "target" shaped plastic grill has to be intact, that part is required as an impact barrier for the plunger rod.

The AR removal mod is done!

:: Plunger Air Release Seal ::

Close up the air relief hole on the side of the plunger tube. This is essential to create an air-tight plunger seal.

Top Photo: Open / Bottom Photo: Closed.

In my example, i use 2-part epoxy glue to fill in the air relief hole.

:: Plunger Padding ::

Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on tube impact.

This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger and tube casing, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impacts on the tube (hence the loud cracking sound during firing) over time, the plunger and tube may become damaged.

Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.

In the following photo, i attached a 20mm diameter soft bumper padding to the tip of the plunger.

The 20mm diameter soft bumper pads i used in the above example are from a brand called "Volkmar-Fix", they can be found at most common hardware shops.

:: O-Ring Replacement ::

To test the plunger air seal, block the tube exit and try to push the plunger rod into the plunger casing, if the air seal is optimized, there should be some resistance in the plunger. It should still be able to move smoothly when the tube exit is not blocked.

If the plunger seal is loose, simply replace the stock o-ring with a more air-tight aftermarket o-ring.

From my experience, the plungers in different Swarmfire units can differ slightly in diameter, therefore you may have to test various o-rings to find the ideal ones that fit properly for an air-tight seal.

Photo Left: Stock O-Ring / Photo Right: Aftermarket O-Ring

:: Voltage Increase ::

The voltage feed to the Swarmfire's motor determines its speed.

To increase the Swarmfire's Rate of Fire (RoF), simply increase the amount of voltage to its motor.

There are many different types of batteries available to create higher voltage power sources, its up to the users to determine which setups suit their usage best.

In my examples, i choose to use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) for my modded Swarmfires.

Such batteries can be installed in the original Swarmfire battery sled without additional modification, simply use AA to C-battery converters.

14500 size 3.7V TrustFire unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries can be charged up to 4.2V each, so i use 4 of them in C-battery converters (with an additional 2 dummy spacers) to get around 16.8V of power.

:: Aftermarket Spring Replacement ::

One way to increase the speed of air delivery through the plunger tube is to replace the stock spring with a stronger aftermarket spring.

Photo Top: Stock Spring / Photo Bottom: 10kg load Spring

Note that due to the thicker spring wire of stronger aftermarket springs, the plunger rod's 4 plastic strut "fins" at the front will need to be trimmed abit narrower so that the spring can fit over the rod properly (or else the spring will end up sitting too far back).

For an optimal balance of RoF, range and reliability, i currently use 10kg load aftermarket springs with 16.8V power on my modded Swarmfires.

Note that i use TrustFire 14500 unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries. These unprotected Li-Ion batteries have high discharge rates which are necessary to provide the required torque to the motor to handle heavier spring loads.

Be advised that regular Alkaline batteries may not have high enough discharge rates (separate factor from voltage) to enable the motor to pull such heavier spring loads.

:: Rotating Barrel Dart Post Removal (Optional) ::

This mod is optional, it is mainly for users who want to be able to use solid core DIY foam darts (ie. stefans) or as a modding step before re-barrel mods.

Detach the rotating barrel from the casing.

Use a dremel with a drill or cutting bit to remove the dart posts.

Note that the dart post removal mod does not affect power or range significantly, it just allows more flexibility in the usage of various DIY foam dart designs.

:: Modified Nerf Swarmfire - Test Fire & Range Testing Video ::

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the shot lands (Average of 20 shots).

Stock Swarmfire
PTG = 20 ft
ATG = 30 ft

Modded Swarmfire (AR Removal & 10kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 60 ft
ATG = 75 ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with Nerf Tagger foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Internals Guide!

2011-04-10T10:30:00.003+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Swarmfire, click Here .

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Exterior Shell Removal (Layer 1)

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Exterior Shell Removal (Layer 2)

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Internal Components

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Motorized Plunger System

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Trigger System

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Direct Spring Plunger

Nerf Dart Tag Swarmfire - Direct Plunger Internals

Nerf Dart Tag Quick 16 - Internals Guide!

2011-04-09T14:30:00.002+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Dart Tag Quick 16.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Quick 16, click Here .

Nerf Dart Tag Quick 16 - Exterior Shell Removal (Layer 1)

Nerf Dart Tag Quick 16 - Exterior Shell Removal (Layer 2)

Nerf Dart Tag Quick 16 - Exterior Shell Removal (Layer 3)

Nerf Dart Tag Quick 16 - Internal Components

Nerf Dart Tag Quick 16 - Reverse Plunger System

Nerf Dart Tag Speedload 6 - Internals Guide!

2011-04-08T18:30:00.000+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Dart Tag Speedload 6.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Speedload 6, click Here .

Nerf Dart Tag Speedload 6 - Exterior Shell Removal (Layer 1)

Nerf Dart Tag Speedload 6 - Exterior Shell Removal (Layer 2)

Nerf Dart Tag Speedload 6 - Exterior Shell Removal (Layer 3)

Nerf Dart Tag Speedload 6 - Internal Components

Nerf Dart Tag Speedload 6 - Reverse Plunger System

Nerf Dart Tag Sharp Shot - Internals Guide!

2011-04-06T11:30:00.001+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Dart Tag Sharp Shot.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Sharp Shot, click Here .

Nerf Dart Tag Sharp Shot - Exterior Shell Removal

Nerf Dart Tag Sharp Shot - Internal Components

Nerf Dart Tag Sharp Shot - Reverse Plunger System

Portable Modding "Clean Lab"!

2011-02-22T16:00:00.015+08:00

Okay, those of you who have been modding and building your own blaster parts will be familiar with all the dust particles and toxic fumes emitted from the cutting and drilling of the various metal and plastic materials, it is really messy and requires alot of clean-up after everything is done, not to mention the dust and fumes are quite hazardous to the health of everyone using the area too.

Personally, i have no dedicated workshop space to do my hobby modding work (unlike those lucky chaps who have actual garages or workshops to work in), so my modding is usually done either at my dining or study table and both locations are not conducive for all the cutting and drilling work (and my neighbors are not keen on people drilling stuff at the apartment corridor either).

Add in the noise from the motorized tools, along with all the remaining dust particles and sharp bits lying around that end up in everyone's food or clothes for the next few days, overall not ideal environments to work in.

So i had an idea...

Make a Portable Modding "Clean Lab"!

And this is what i made in less than 10 minutes:

It works like a charm! All the dust particles and fumes stay inside the plastic box, it is portable so i can do my modding work anywhere at home (or at the office!) and all the mess is contained. After everything is done just tip out all the dust particles in the trash.

And because the entire box is sealed, even the sound of the motorized tools operating within it is muted! No more complains from family members or colleagues about anymore noisy cutting and drilling. :)

Here are some tips on how i made it with some simple household items...

Step 1: Get a suitable sized transparent plastic box (the plastic material should be as clear as possible) and then simply cut 2 holes on each side.

Step 2: Get a pair of rubber washing gloves, and simply attach them into the cut-out holes. In my example, i just used duct tape (alot of it) to secure the gloves to the plastic box holes, make sure there it is fully sealed so no dust can escape.

Step 3: Test it out... nice!

Its done! Here is to a much neater modding experience! :)

Nerf Super Soaker Hydro Cannon - Internals Guide!

2011-02-09T16:00:00.001+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Super Soaker Hydro Cannon.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Super Soaker Hydro Cannon, click Here.

Nerf Super Soaker Hydro Cannon - Disassembled

Nerf Super Soaker Hydro Cannon - Front Components

Nerf Super Soaker Hydro Cannon - Middle Components

Nerf Super Soaker Hydro Cannon - Rear Components

Nerf Super Soaker Tornado Strike - Internals Guide!

2011-02-07T18:00:00.000+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Super Soaker Tornado Strike.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Super Soaker Tornado Strike, click Here.

Nerf Super Soaker Tornado Strike - Disassembled

Nerf Super Soaker Tornado Strike - Pump & Gear System

Nerf Super Soaker Thunderstorm - Internals Guide!

2011-02-06T16:00:00.002+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Super Soaker Thunderstorm.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Super Soaker Thunderstorm, click Here.

Nerf Super Soaker Thunderstorm - Disassembled

Nerf Super Soaker Thunderstorm - Pressure Switch Trigger

Nerf Super Soaker Thunderstorm - Motorized Peristaltic Pump Firing System

Nerf Super Soaker Thunderstorm - Motorized Internals Demo

Nerf Super Soaker Scatter Blast - Internals Guide!

2011-02-05T08:00:00.000+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Super Soaker Scatter Blast.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Super Soaker Scatter Blast, click Here.

Nerf Super Soaker Scatter Blast - Disassembled

Nerf Super Soaker Scatter Blast - Pump System

Nerf Super Soaker Point Break - Internals Guide!

2011-02-04T13:00:00.002+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Super Soaker Point Break.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Super Soaker Point Break, click Here.

Nerf Super Soaker Point Break - Disassembled

Nerf Super Soaker Point Break - Trigger System

Nerf Barricade "Clip Conversion" Mod Guide!

2010-12-04T13:00:00.049+08:00

What if the Nerf Barricade could use N-Strike clips and mags?

This blaster modification project is a joint development between SgNerf and pSyK (very cool Nerf enthusiast and modder at the NerfSG forum), without him this project would still be on the drawing boards.

I initially started on the project with an early prototype but pSyK was the one who developed the final design and functionality for this Barricade clip conversion mod.

Full credit goes to pSyK for his excellent design and implementation!

Introducing... the Nerf Barricade ECS!

Before the conversion is done, the Barricades are all modded with:
- Voltage Increase
- Trigger Activated Power On
- Flywheel Adjustment

Click this link for more information on the various performance mods: Nerf Barricade Mod Guide

Okay, here is how its converted...

- Nerf Barricade Clip Conversion Process -

Step 1:

Remove the original 10-dart turret and cut a channel at the bottom of the casing, make sure the gap is wide enough to allow a N-Strike clip to fit through properly. Cut away the turret advancement stalk too.

Step 2:

We will now create the clip securing system.

Trim off the turret advancement stem part way, this will now act as part of the clip positioning design.

In my example, i installed machine screws at positions which correspond to the clip notches and dimensions, these will be the parts that will hold the clip securely in the blaster and position it in the correct alignment.

Other materials like rubber padding or plastic bolts can also be used to create the clip securing system, just experiment and try out various methods to develop other types of clip securing system designs.

Step 3:

Trim and shape part of the casing as shown in the photo below, this will also form part of the clip securing system.

Note that this particular casing part will correspond to the shape of a notch in the front of the 6-dart clip and 18/35-dart drum mags, the 18-dart clip will need just a slight trim on it's front section to match the same notch as the rest.

Step 4:

Remove the trigger lock (found behind the trigger mechanism), this will allow the trigger to be able to be half pulled without getting stuck.

For convenience, also remove the access hatch door and lock mechanism. If you have a soldering iron, you can also remove the pressure switch and re-solder the wires back together (then you'll now have a spare pressure switch to use in other projects).

Step 5:

Add some padding on the dart pusher stem to extend its travel, this will help it to push the foam darts further into the flywheels for better contact.

Make sure the dart pusher travel is neither too long or too short, it must be just right. Keep testing until it achieves a perfect positioning.

The amount of extension padding will depend on each particular Barricade unit as individual units may differ slightly in parts fit.

Step 6:

With the clip conversion done, the dart pusher stem will need to retract much faster so that the next foam dart can advance up the clip to be ready for firing. If the dart pusher stem is too slow to retract, jams will occur.

The solution is to increase the load on the dart pusher stem's retraction spring.

Simply pull the spring back halfway and bolt it down.

Step 7:

Load in a clip and test that all the parts and components are aligned properly.

Make sure the flywheels can spin freely without obstruction. Ensure that the foam darts can be pushed forward and propelled consistently by the flywheels.

Step 8:

Assemble everything together and start running your firing tests.

Make any necessary adjustment required to achieve consistent and reliable firing performance.

Final Step:

Ditch the turrets... grab your clips and mags.

The era of clip-fed semi-auto Nerf sidearms is finally here!

Note:
- The 18-dart drum mag can also be used with this clip conversion.
- The 35-dart drum mag tends to be abit too heavy for this current conversion design, it'll need to be additionally supported when in use.

Update!
- "moddersunited" at the HvZ Forums has found another alternative method to secure the clips, check out his mod via this Link.

Nerf Barricade "Clip Conversion" - Demo & Test Fire Video!

Nerf Alpha Trooper - Internals Guide!

2010-10-27T22:00:00.001+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Alpha Trooper CS-18.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Alpha Trooper, click Here .

Nerf Alpha Trooper CS-18 - Internals Comparison with Nerf Raider
(Top: Raider / Bottom: Alpha Trooper)

Nerf Alpha Trooper CS-18 - Internals Comparison (Close-Up)
(Top: Raider / Bottom: Alpha Trooper)

Nerf Alpha Trooper CS-18 - Plunger & Spring Comparison with Nerf Raider
(Top: Raider / Bottom: Alpha trooper)

Custom Weighted Foam Darts - Tip Seal Guide!

2010-10-08T19:00:00.025+08:00

I have been receiving many queries on custom weighted foam darts from modders. This guide will answer 2 of the popular questions:

How to ensure dart tips never split or detach during firing or impact?

How to make consistent flat tips for attaching the soft padding?

Here is one of the methods i use...

From left to right (top row):

- Remove the original tip from the foam dart.

- Insert the tip weight.

- Use a short section of 17/32" brass tube as a mold and sleeve it over the foam dart tip, allow 1-2mm of clearance from the brass tube edge.

- Apply hot glue into the brass tube mold, this will seal the tip weight and the foam dart together.

From left to right (bottom row):

- Put the mold tip first on a cool surface and press down on the foam dart to compress the hot glue and get rid of any bubbles. This will create a molded flat tip. Wait around 20-30 seconds for the hot glue to cool down and solidify.

- Remove the foam dart from the brass tube mold, trim the sides of the flat hot glue tip so that it is aligned with the foam dart outer diameter.

- For safety, attach a piece of soft padding to the flat hot glue tip. This helps to absorb the foam dart impact.

- Close-up of the completed custom weighted foam dart.

Hope that helps! :)

Nerf Barricade - Mod Guide!

2010-09-25T15:00:00.035+08:00

This Mod Guide will cover some performance mods for the Nerf Barricade.

Mods covered:
- Voltage Increase
- Trigger Activated Power On
- Flywheel Width Adjustment
- Stefan Compatibility

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

:: Voltage Increase ::

As the Barricade is a flywheel based blaster, the faster the flywheel motors spin the faster foam darts get fired out, hence longer range and faster dart velocity.

To increase the speed of the motors, simply increase the voltage feed.

In my examples, i use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) in my modded Barricades. The batteries can be sourced from specialist electronics stores or online sites.

14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion TrustFire rechargeable batteries are usually charged up to 4.2V, so i use 2 of them with a dummy AA battery in the 3rd battery slot. This configuration provides 8.4 Volts of power to the Barricade's motors.

With 8.4 Volts of power, the Barricade's motors spin much faster and the start-up response time is also quicker.

See the test fire video below for the range results based on this increased voltage.

I have also tested it with 3 x fully charged unprotected TrustFire Li-Ion rechargeable batteries with a total of 12.6 Volts, but the motors did not move. Therefore, it seems that 12.6 Volts from unprotected Li-Ion batteries is perhaps over the limits of its inbuilt safety thermistor, due to the higher discharge rates and voltage of these batteries.

Note that normal Alkaline batteries have limited discharge rates, and may therefore perform differently at the same voltage compared to these unprotected TrustFire Li-Ion batteries.

:: Trigger Activated Power On ::

Stock Barricades require their motors to be separately switched on, then constantly running to be able to fire.... but the motors will still be spinning even when its not firing anything!

This creates an incredibly annoying constant buzzing sound that has put off many players from using Barricades, not to mention the added power drain on the batteries.

I've worked out a way to solve this issue by installing a pressure switch which would be activated by the trigger pull instead.

Interestingly, the stock Nerf Barricade already has a pressure switch included for modders to use... its just under the original On/Off switch!

Step 1: Open the internal cover to the On/Off switch and you will find a pressure switch. Remove it and detach it from the circuit.

Step 2: Locate the area directly under the trigger, cut a slot around the size of the pressure switch and make sure it is aligned so that the trigger will be able to slide properly over the pressure switch.

Use the cut-out piece of plastic to make a ledge, this will serve as a holder for the pressure switch.

Step 3: Glue the pressure switch onto the plastic ledge and make sure it is positioned properly to allow the trigger to slide over it and depress the switch smoothly.

Connect the pressure switch to the circuit with some additional wiring.

Solder all the parts and wires together and wrap electrical tap on all exposed wiring.

This is how the new circuit should look like.

Thats it! Now your Barricade motors will only spin when you want to fire it.

The key to efficient usage is to simply pull the trigger a quarter way to get the motors spinning. As the motors start-up response time is much faster at higher voltage feeds, its just a split second before you can fire shots continuously.

With abit of practice, you'll be able to use it as a quick draw sidearm!

After firing, just release the trigger and the motors will stop spinning. No more constant buzzing when not firing! :)

Although the original On/Off switch is now no longer functional, it still acts as a useful trigger "safety" lock. So you can slide it forward to prevent accidental trigger pulls.

:: Flywheel Width Adjustment ::

For modders who want to use other types of foam darts, especially those which have narrower tips (ie. streamlines or stefans), one solution is to adjust the width of the flywheels.

In my example, i simply use electrical tape to increase the width of the flywheels.

The amount of tape layers required will depend on the foam darts used, so its up to modders to test and find the best combination of tape layers to apply.

Note that the plastic casings and ramps around the flywheels would need to be trimmed if thicker layers of material are wrapped around the flywheels, or else the wheels may get stuck.

:: Stefan Compatibility ::

For modders who want to use stefans or foam darts that are much shorter than normal stock foam darts, here is an idea you can try.

Slot separate foam spacer pieces in the barrels behind each stefan or short foam dart. The Barricade's dart pusher rod will push the foam spacer piece which in turn will push the stefan forward into the flywheels to be fired out.

:: Modified Nerf Barricade - Demo & Range Testing Video ::

Here is a demo and range testing video for reference.

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 10 darts).

Stock Barricade
PTG = 25 ft
ATG = 35 ft

Modded Barricade (8.4 Volts & Trigger Activated Power On)
PTG = 50 ft
ATG = 60 ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with stock Nerf Sonic foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

Nerf Stampede - Plunger Catch Control Spring Troubleshoot!

2010-09-21T21:00:00.015+08:00

Credit goes to Spartan at the NerfSG forum for detecting and solving this issue.

Some users who have modded their Nerf Stampedes may have encountered an odd issue whereby their blasters continue firing even after they release the trigger, resulting in erratic firing operation.

Here is a cause of this phenomenon:

The Stampede's Plunger Catch Control Spring has somehow popped out of position and no longer functions properly.

The solution is to remove the catch control component and reposition the spring back to its original position, then install it back into the Stampede.

An even better option is to replace the stock catch control spring with a stronger spring of the same size, then applying some tape to the gaps to prevent the spring from popping out again.

I have tested installing stronger aftermarket catch control springs into many modded Stampedes and have noticed an improvement in operational reliability and firing consistency.

This should solve the Stampede's "auto-running" and erratic firing issues! :)

Nerf Stampede - Battery Sled "Quick-Release Catch" Mod!

2010-09-18T22:00:00.013+08:00

Ever wished you could do away with using a precision screwdriver every time the Stampede's battery sled needs to be opened?

Especially for those of us modders who use higher voltage but lower capacity Li-Ion rechargeable batteries and need to frequently access the battery sled.

Here is an excellent functional mod from fellow Nerf enthusiast and modder irfanzain... the Nerf Stampede battery sled "Quick-Release Catch" Mod!

Check out his forum threads on this modification at NerfSG and NerfHaven. Full credits got to irfanzain for his simple yet efficient idea and design! :)

Here is an example of a set of quick-release catches that i've installed on one of my modded Nerf Stampedes:

Nerf Stampede - Battery Sled "Quick-Release Catch" Mod

Quick-release catches can be sourced from most major hardware stores and shops.

Yeah, i'm definitely installing quick-release catches on all my modded Stampedes!

Nerf Barricade - Internals Guide!

2010-09-16T15:30:00.003+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Barricade RV-10.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Barricade, click Here.

Nerf Barricade RV-10 - Disassembled

Nerf Barricade RV-10 - Flywheel System Detail

Nerf Barricade RV-10 - Motor Comparison with Tamiya Plasma Dash Motor

More Blaster Protection Cases!

2010-09-15T20:00:00.007+08:00

As readers may have seen in my earlier post on Blaster Protection Cases which could fit blasters like Longshots or +bows... they worked well, but that version was just slightly too small for the Nerf Stampede.

Good News! I've managed to get larger protection cases that can fit the Nerf Stampede!

Yeah... Stampede players can now arrive in pro-style too!

Nerf Stampede Mod Guide!

2010-09-10T21:00:00.060+08:00

This Mod Guide will cover some performance mods for the Nerf Stampede.

Mods covered:
- Air Restrictor (AR) Removal
- Plunger Rod Air Release Seal
- Plunger Padding
- O-Ring Replacement
- Voltage Increase
- Aftermarket Spring Replacement

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

:: AR Removal ::

Step 1: Disassemble your Stampede. Make sure to remove all the screws before detaching the casing.

Step 2: Disassemble the plunger mechanism components and remove the plunger rod from the plunger casing.

Step 3: Use long screwdrivers and a hammer, carefully knock out the Air Restrictor (AR) assembly from both ends of the plunger and bolt.

Left Photo: Stock Air Restrictor / Right Photo: Air Restrictor Removed.

:: Plunger Rod Air Release Seal ::

Look at the front and back of the plunger tip, notice the 2 air release holes?

For a better air seal, use super glue or epoxy glue to seal both of them.

:: Plunger Padding ::

Without the AR, there is no air buffering system to cushion the plunger on bolt impact.

This results in very high wear and tear on the plunger and bolt casing, by both normal firing and dry firing. Due to repeated direct impacts on the bolt (hence the loud cracking sound during firing) over time, the bolt and plunger may become damaged.

Therefore, padding should be applied to the plunger to help cushion the impact.

In the following photo, i attached a 20mm diameter soft bumper padding to the tip of the plunger.

The 20mm diameter soft bumper pads i used in the above example are from a brand called "Volkmar-Fix", they can be found at most common hardware shops.

:: O-Ring Replacement ::

To test the plunger air seal, block the bolt exit and try to push the plunger rod into the plunger casing, if the air seal is optimized, there should be some resistance in the plunger. It should still be able to move smoothly when the bolt exit is not blocked.

If the plunger seal is loose, simply replace the stock o-ring with a more air-tight aftermarket o-ring.

From my experience, the plungers in different Stampede units can differ slightly in diameter, therefore you will have to test various o-rings to find the ideal ones that fit properly for an air-tight seal.

Photo Left: Aftermarket O-Ring / Photo Right: Stock O-Ring

:: Voltage Increase ::

The voltage feed to the Stampede's motor determines its speed and torque.

To increase the Stampede's Rate of Fire (RoF), simply increase the amount of voltage to its motor.

In my examples, i choose to use 14500 size 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable Batteries (Brand: TrustFire / Unprotected versions) for all modded Stampedes.

I prefer to use these type of battery sizes due to their versatility in usage. Because of their AA compatible size, they can fit into multi-slot AA battery holders, and are not just limited to specific hobby or modding usage, they can also be used other devices like CREE torch lights or even to replace normal batteries in compact electronics devices (with proper voltage matching).

Such batteries can be installed in the original Stampede battery sled without additional modification, simply use AA or 2AA to D-battery converters, or use multi-slot AA battery holders.

14500 size 3.7V TrustFire unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries can be charged up to 4.2V each, so i use 4 of them in a 4AA battery holder to get around 16.8V of power.

Notice how little space these rechargeable batteries require. :)

These 14500 size Li-Ion rechargeable batteries are compact and lightweight. Although their 900mAh capacity are low compared to other batteries, i've tested sets at full charge and have managed to fire around 40 x 18-dart clips worth of foam darts before the battery sets require recharging.

That's more than 700+ shots per charge, more than enough for most Nerf games.

As a reserve, i usually just carry an extra spare set for extended Nerf games or when the first set is recharging.

:: Aftermarket Spring Replacement ::

One way to increase the speed of air delivery through the bolt is to replace the stock spring with a stronger aftermarket spring.

There are many different springs with different sizes and spring force ratings. Spring choice will depend on your usage.

The examples below show the stock spring compared with 3 other aftermarket springs.

Photo (Left-Right): Stock Spring, 6kg load Spring, 9kg load Spring, 13kg load Spring.

Tested effects and usage of the various aftermarket springs shown above:

6kg load Spring
- Works with 9V but RoF will be reduced by 50%, recommend >12V for better RoF.

9kg load Spring
- 9V has difficulty moving the plunger, 12V gets normal RoF, recommend >15V for better RoF.

13kg load Spring

- 12V has difficulty moving the plunger, 15V gets normal RoF, recommend >18V for better RoF.

Note that the above voltages are tested with TrustFire 14500 unprotected Li-Ion rechargeable batteries. These unprotected Li-Ion batteries have high discharge rates which are necessary to provide the required torque to the motor to handle heavier spring loads.

Be advised that regular Alkaline batteries may not have high enough discharge rates (separate factor from voltage) to enable the motor to pull such heavier spring loads.

For an optimal balance of RoF, range and reliability, i currently use 9kg load aftermarket springs with 16.8V power on my modded Stampedes.

Photo Top: Stock Spring / Photo Bottom: 9kg load Spring

:: Modified Nerf Stampede - Test Fire & Range Testing Video ::

All the above modifications will result in this...

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 6 darts).

Stock Stampede
PTG = 20 ft
ATG = 30 ft

Modded Stampede (AR Removal & 6kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 45 ft
ATG = 60 ft

Modded Stampede (AR Removal & 9kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 60 ft
ATG = 75 ft

Modded Stampede (AR Removal & 13kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 70 ft
ATG = 85 ft

Note that the tests were done under controlled conditions with customized foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

Nerf Stampede - RoF & Test Fire Update!

2010-09-04T21:00:00.017+08:00

Here is an update to the Nerf Stampede Voltage Increase and RoF Testing.

I have test fired more clips and have found that voltages of above 20 Volts produce way too high a rate-of-fire to be able to reliably chamber foam darts from clips and magazines. Although some clips might be able to fire properly once in a while, the majority of clips will get jammed easily very often. Just a slight delay in dart advancement or a bent dart can cause jams to occur.

Testing with 18 Volts provided more manageable speeds, the rate of jams occurring is less but it still happens, especially when worn-out foam darts happen to get stuck in the clips. Not a good situation to be in during a Nerf game!

Overall, i've found 15-16 Volts to be just right in terms of improved rate-of-fire, yet with smooth operation and low chances of jams occurring, even when slightly bent or damaged darts are used. Therefore, i'd recommend using 15-16 Volts for reliable operation in modded Stampedes.

With that note... here is a Clip Reload & Test Fire video of a modded Nerf Stampede running on 15 Volts.

Blaster Protection Case!

2010-09-03T21:00:00.007+08:00

Looking for an alternative to chucking your valuable blasters into a large bag and finding out later that they have been scratched up and full of scuffed marks en route to and from Nerf games?

Well, check this out... go all "professional" to Nerf games with a cool Blaster Protection Case!

Arrive at Nerf games in ultimate pro-style! :)

Nerf Stampede - Voltage Increase / RoF Testing (Work-In-Progress)

2010-09-01T22:00:00.017+08:00

With the Nerf Stampede now available in stores, i've managed to get alot more sets to tinker and modify. I will be posting up a series of Mod Guides on the Nerf Stampede soon.

In the meantime, here is a glimpse at how increases in voltage affect the Stampede's Rate-of-Fire (RoF).

Important Disclaimer: DO NOT attempt this modification unless you are familiar with electrical circuits and accept if your blaster is damaged in the process! Modify at your own risk!

UPDATE!

Refer to this follow-up link below for the test results and optimal RoF recommendations:

Link: http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-stampede-rof-test-fire-update.html

Nerf Spectre - Internals Guide!

2010-08-12T11:00:00.002+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Spectre REV-5.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Spectre, click Here.

Nerf Spectre REV-5 - Disassembled

Nerf Spectre REV-5 - Internals Comparison with Nerf Maverick
(Top: Maverick / Bottom: Spectre)

Nerf Spectre REV-5 - Plunger & Spring Comparison with Nerf Maverick
(Top: Maverick / Bottom: Spectre)

Brass Barrel Slide Breech - Build Guide!

2010-08-05T19:00:00.013+08:00

For users of modified or custom-built single-shot blasters that require manual reloading, the usual basic methods of loading foam darts is to either use "speedloaders" (a cluster of individual barrels attached together) or using a stick to ram-rod individual foam darts into a barrel... both being rather slow and tedious procedures.

A popular alternative is to use slide breeches.

Many slide breech designs have been created by various modders over the years and slide breeches are usually installed into single-shot manual-reload blasters to offer a quicker (and more elegant) dart reload solution.

I've tinkered with a few slide breech designs and eventually came up with a customised design which uses 9/16" brass tubes (my favourite barrel material and dimension of choice, as it fits the custom foam darts i use perfectly) nested within 13mm locally-sourced PVC pipe (which allows wide compatibility with all my modded and custom built blasters).

In addition, i have also designed an in-built brass barrel "secure-join" system which ensures a 100% air-tight seal.

Here is how i built my custom Brass Barrel Slide Breech:

Step 1: Prepare 1ft length of 9/16" brass tube (Brand: K&S Engineering) and 40cm length of 13mm SingaPlastics PVC pipe.

The 9/16" brass tube nests within the 13mm SingaPlastics PVC pipe.

Note that the PVC pipe internal diameters (ID) can vary depending on production batch and sometimes it can be too tight or too loose for the brass tube (even within the same length of pipe), therefore you'll need to test the nesting fit using different sections of pipe beforehand to get the best fit combination for smooth breech operation.

Step 2: Use a Dremel with a cutting disc designed for cutting plastic, along with a grinding bit to cut and trim a suitable sized breech channel in the 13mm PVC pipe, make sure the channel is long and wide enough to fit foam darts.

Include a semi-circle cut at the back of the breech channel for the breech locking tab.

Step 3: Put aside the PVC breech for now. We shall move on to the brass barrel section.

To create the brass barrel "secure-join" system, cut 3 x 2cm sections of 1/2", 17/32" and 9/16" brass tubes.

Nest all 3 brass tube sections within each other with the 1/2" and 17/32" sections positioned forward slightly. Glue the sections together with strong 2-part epoxy glue.

The 1/2" section will help push the foam dart forward into the barrel and the 17/32" section will sleeve with the 9/16" brass barrel. This forms the basis of the brass barrel "secure-join" system.

In the photo below, you can see how the system works. When the breech is closed, the 9/16" brass barrel will sleeve onto the nested brass tube assembly to create a 100% air seal.

Step 4: Install the brass tube assembly into the back of the breech channel, position it so that the brass barrel can sleeve on it when the breech is closed. Use 2-part epoxy glue to permanently attach it.

Done properly, a nice audible "click" can be heard when the brass barrel and tube assembly connect.

Step 5: Attach a breech locking tab onto the brass barrel.

In my example, i simply used 2 x hex nuts stacked up and epoxy glued onto the brass barrel. I use Selleys Super Strength 2-part epoxy glue (properly clamped with 72 hour curing time), as i've found that its the only epoxy glue strong enough to still hold the locking tab permanently even after repeated heavy-duty usage.

The breech locking tab is important because it prevents the brass barrel from slipping out of the PVC breech casing, and when the breech is closed, it ensures a secure air-tight connection and seal.

In the photo below, it shows the breech open (top), breech closed (middle) and breech locking tab engaged (bottom).

Step 6: Attach the completed Brass Barrel Slide Breech to your blaster of choice.

Here is an example of how i attached it to my +bow.

I customised a 13mm PVC adapter with PETG tube rings to match the +bow coupler.

Then i joined the Brass Barrel Slide Breech with the custom 13mm PVC adapter using a straight 13mm PVC pipe connector.

Great performance and a much smoother (and cooler looking) foam dart reloading procedure. :)

Custom Calibrated Foam Darts - Conversion Guide!

2010-08-03T22:00:00.031+08:00

Most modders naturally find stock Nerf foam darts inaccurate and inconsistent. They are basically not designed with the proper weight balance required for straight and consistent dart flight when used in blasters that have been modified for more power.

To improve accuracy and range, there many methods to custom make foam darts, either from foam backer rod (FBR) or converting existing foam darts into customized versions.

The main feature in most customized foam darts is a heavier tip, this additional weight in front of the foam dart helps increase performance . But having too much or too little tip weight can also have adverse effects too, it all depends on the power of the blasters they are used in. Thats where proper calibration comes in.

In this guide, i will cover one of the conversion and calibration methods that has been popular with modders at the NerfSG forum. This method is based of the "Sabot" design by SixShot.

It is one of the more effective techniques of adding more weight to the foam dart tip, yet allowing calibration for different blaster power and still ensuring that all the materials used are of a safe nature (ie. no metal or hard plastic/resin parts).

Note that the outer diameter (OD) and length of foam darts that users choose will determine the specific dimensions of breeches and barrels that are suitable for them.

For example, wider OD foam darts that fit well into 9/16" brass barrels will be too tight for 17/32" brass barrels, which would cause chambering issues. Whereas narrower OD foam darts that fit well into 17/32" brass barrels will be too loose in 9/16" brass barrels, resulting in air leaks around the foam dart as its fired, which reduces power and range. So its all a matter of testing to find the right combination.

For my own custom calibrated foam darts, i prefer to use either 3rd-party SDL brand foam darts or custom FBR which have slightly wider foam bodies. Their "fatter" OD creates a much better air seal when chambered in both normal stock breeches and brass breeches which use 9/16" brass barrels, offering optimum overall performance in those particular barrel and breech dimensions.

The choice of foam dart type and brand is up to the user's preference, so there is no "best" foam dart, just the most suitable and customized for the user's application.

Here is an example of how Custom Calibrated Foam Darts can be made...

Step 1: Remove the original tips from the foam darts.

Get soft eraser stick refills (commonly found at most stores) and cut them into the desired lengths.

In this example, i cut them into 4 different lengths (5mm, 10mm, 15mm and 20mm) to create 4 different calibrated foam darts with varying tip weights.

The longer the eraser stick refill, the heavier the tip weight. So its up to users to find the best length (and consequently weight) combination to suit their particular modded blasters .

I would recommend making a "calibration" set as shown below for initial testing.

Step 2: Slot the cut lengths of eraser stick refills into the foam dart tips.

Use general-purpose glue or "contact cement" glue to permanently attach them into the foam darts. Make sure the glue is completely dry and the dart tips are secure before firing the foam darts.

In the photo below, the numbers on the tips indicate the eraser stick refill lengths used within each foam dart, these are an example of a "calibration" set used for testing the suitable tip weights for various modded blasters.

It is common for users to have seperate batches of different tip weighted foam darts allocated to each of their different modified blasters. Do remember to indicate the tip weights somewhere on the foam darts, so they don't get mixed up.

Step 3: Safety and further customization.

As custom calibrated foam darts are commonly used in more powerful modified blasters, the impact of hits will naturally be harder and the chances of welts or bruises occurring would also be higher, therefore it is important to cushion the impact of the dart tips.

To reduce the foam dart impact during Nerf games (while still maintaining accuracy and range), i attach 12mm diameter soft foam padding to the tips of all my customized foam darts. These soft foam padded tips help to prevent welts or bruises occurring even if accidentally fired at close range.

The soft foam padding also keeps the dart tips intact over multiple shots, reducing the heavy wear and tear that usually occurs with constant Nerf game usage.

In addition, i also wrap a layer of tape just behind the tip of each customized foam dart, this helps to reinforce the tip as well as to slightly narrow the front section to aid in smoother dart chambering within modified breeches.

This is just one example, there are many other methods to customize your foam darts, try them out and find the most suitable techniques for your usage... and make sure you have the safety aspect in mind too!

Enjoy better calibrated accuracy and range from your modified blasters! :)

Nerf Longshot "Brass Breech" Mod Update!

2010-07-25T10:00:00.008+08:00

This is an update to my Nerf Longshot "Brass Breech" Mod Guide.

Mod Guide Link: http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/03/nerf-longshot-brass-breech-mod-guide.html

One of the issues with that brass breech design was that the brass barrel half-pipe prevents clips from being loaded when the breech is open, due to the width of the half-pipe.

From a modding suggestion by "phuonguyen" over at the OzNerf forum a while back, the idea of a thinner "quarter-pipe" for the brass barrel was hatched. Credit goes to phuonguyen for his idea.

So i made a brass barrel with the quarter-pipe design, and it worked perfectly!

Basically just cut a quarter-pipe into the brass barrel.

Then just install it into the Brass Breeched Longshot as per normal.

The above photo shows the brass barrel with quarter-pipe installed in a Longshot with the original angel breech bolt attachment design.

Note that if you are following my additional brass bolt half-pipe design, you'll also have to do the quarter-pipe technique on the brass bolt too, so that both parts will have quarter-pipes to line up nicely for clips to be loaded and unloaded properly.

Now you can load and unload clips when the brass breech is open! :)

Nerf Stampede - Internals Guide!

2010-07-23T19:30:00.003+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Stampede ECS.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Stampede, click Here.

Nerf Stampede ECS - Disassembled

Nerf Stampede ECS - Motor, Circuits & Gears Detail

Nerf Stampede ECS - Plunger & Gears Detail

Nerf Stampede ECS - Plunger Comparison with Nerf Longshot CS-6

(Top: Longshot / Bottom: Stampede)

Nerf Stampede ECS - Plunger Internals Detail

Nerf Barrel Break - Internals Guide!

2010-07-22T19:30:00.002+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Nerf Barrel Break IX-2, along with parts comparisons with the Nerf Recon CS-6.

For a detailed review of the Nerf Barrel Break, click Here.

Nerf Barrel Break IX-2 - Disassembled

Nerf Barrel Break IX-2 - Internals Close-Up

Nerf Barrel Break IX-2 - Double Plunger Detail

Nerf Barrel Break IX-2 - Break Action Ratchet Detail

Nerf Barrel Break IX-2 - Spring Comparison with Recon CS-6

(Top: Barrel Break / Bottom: Recon)

Nerf Barrel Break IX-2 - Plunger Comparison with Recon CS-6
(Top: Barrel Break / Bottom: Recon)

Custom Fabricated Nerf Longshot Aluminium Bolt Sled - Review!

2010-07-12T17:30:00.000+08:00

The Nerf Longshot has been one of the more popular blasters in the Nerf blaster range due to its high modification potential, but one of its weaker internal components is the bolt sled which has a tendency to crack or break when used with stronger aftermarket springs.

Solution: Custom Fabricated Nerf Longshot Aluminium Bolt Sled!

The custom fabricated bolt sleds are made from precision milled aluminium and designed for a direct fit in Longshots.

Nerf Longshot Aluminium Bolt Sled - Comparison with Stock Nerf Longshot
(Top: Stock Bolt Sled / Right: Custom Fabricated Aluminium Bolt Sled)

Nerf Longshot Aluminium Bolt Sled - Close-up Detail

Nerf Longshot Aluminium Bolt Sled - Internal Fitment

(Top: Stock Longshot / Middle: Modded Longshot / Bottom: Brass Breeched Longshot)

Custom Fabricated Nerf Longshot Aluminium Bolt Sled - Overview & Internal Fitment Video

Lanard Big Salvo Mod Guide!

2010-07-04T19:02:00.020+08:00

The Lanard Big Salvo is an air-tank based blaster that can fire foam arrows in both semi-auto or burst "salvo".

This configuration is an ideal base to create a blaster that can fire foam darts too.

Here is a very easy mod to convert it from firing only foam arrows, to also being able to fire foam darts. In fact, this mod is so simple... it'll only take a few minutes to do. :)

Step 1: Remove the Air Baffles (AB) from the launcher tube tips. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip onto the baffle vents, then just twist it to remove.

Step 2: Cut to length your choice of barrel tubes. Use barrel tube material that can fit into the existing launcher tubes. Make sure the barrels have an air-tight seal within the launcher tubes.

In my example, i use 4 x 6" lengths of ½" ID smoked grey PETG tubes that slot perfectly into the launcher tubes.

Its done!

Pump it up, load the foam darts into the barrels... and fire! :)

Foam arrows can still be used after this mod is done, therefore you could fire both foam arrows and foam darts at the same time too.

Useful for Nerf game scenarios where there are additional special rules for foam arrow/missile hits. :)

:: Sample Test Fire Data ::

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 4 darts).

Firing foam darts:

PTG = 75 ft
ATG = 90 ft

Note that the test was done indoors with customised foam darts. The results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on foam darts, materials and mod techniques used).

Buzz Bee Hunter - Internals Guide!

2010-06-25T21:40:00.002+08:00

This guide will serve as a reference for the internals of the Buzz Bee Hunter.

For the full review of the Buzz Bee Hunter, click Here.

Buzz Bee Hunter - Disassembled

Buzz Bee Hunter - Front Internals

Buzz Bee Hunter - Back Internals

Buzz Bee Hunter - Plunger Internals

Custom Fabricated Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Review!

2010-06-19T12:00:00.013+08:00

Finding that your modded Big Blast plastic triggers are constantly breaking?

Solution: Custom Fabricated Big Blast Aluminium Trigger!

These custom fabricated triggers are made from precision milled aluminium and designed for a perfect fit in the Big Blast, just swap the stock plastic trigger with it and its complete!

Buzz Bee Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Comparison with Stock Trigger
(Top: Stock Trigger / Right: Custom Fabricated Aluminium Trigger)

Buzz Bee Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Internal Fitment

Custom Fabricated Big Blast Aluminium Trigger - Test Fire & Fitment Video

Forums where the Aluminium Triggers can be ordered:

NerfSG: Order Link
NerfHaven: Order Link
NerfRevolution: Order Link
OZNerf: Order Link

Nerf Blaster - FPS Chronograph Speed Tests!

2010-06-16T20:25:00.012+08:00

In the spirit of popular TV series like Myth Busters and The Deadliest Warrior, here is the Nerf blaster version of FPS Speed Tests! :)

I've managed to get a Shooting Chrony F-1 FPS Measuring Chronograph, so its now possible to generate some reference FPS data for stock and modified Nerf blasters.

You can spot the same device being used in the above mentioned TV series to measure projectile speeds for data comparisons. It can measure speeds from bullets, arrows, pellets, paintballs... and yes, foam darts too. From 30 FPS (feet per second) to 7,000 FPS.

As a projectile passes over the 1st sensor, it starts a counter and when the projectile passes over the 2nd sensor it stops the counter, the device calculates the FPS in realtime and the results pop up on its LCD screen.

FPS measurement is of keen interest to Nerf enthusiasts and especially modders who can finally get some quantitative data on the actual speed of the foam darts fired from modified blasters (instead of saying "its faster" just by looking).

Here is a quick review of the Shooting Chrony F-1 that will be used for these FPS speed tests:

Shooting Chrony F-1 (Box)

Shooting Chrony F-1 (Un-Boxed)

Shooting Chrony F-1 (Assembled with Light Diffusers)

Shooting Chrony F-1 (Mounted on Camera Tripod)

The device is designed to be portable (it folds up into the size of a brick).

Okay, lets start measuring FPS speeds!

Here are a few sets of reference FPS data that i've generated from some of my blasters.

Test Perimeters:
- FPS data are an average of 12 recorded shots from each blaster.
- All test shots are fired with the blaster barrel muzzle approx. 6 inches from the 1st sensor.
- Tests are done indoors with natural light sources.
- Foam darts used are Converted SDL Darts (CSD).

- Nerf Longshot -

Stock Longshot

Modified Longshot (AR Removed, 14kg Spring, Deadspace Elimination)

Brass Breech Longshot (AR Removed, 14kg Spring, Deadspace Elimination, 100% Air-Tight Brass Breech System)

- Nerf Recon -

Stock Recon

Modified Recon (AR Removed, 6kg Spring)

Modified Recon (AR Removed, 11kg Spring)

Brass Breech Recon (AR Removed, 11kg Spring, 100% Air-Tight Brass Breech)

.

Nerf Longshot Mod - Shotgun Grip!

2010-05-01T15:00:00.068+08:00

This is a quick mod guide by request from nerfers who spotted my modded Longshot with a customised Clear Polycarbonate Shotgun Grip during Nerf games, and have been asking how it was done.

The main benefit of a Longshot shotgun grip is a more efficient method of priming the blaster. Users can still support the front of the blaster while priming it, thereby maintaining steady aiming and better rate-of-fire.

In addition, the shotgun grip's dual arms both act in tandem to push back the bolt sled, which helps to balance out the load on both sides of the bolt sled during the priming action, thereby reducing uneven load stress (one of the common causes of bolt sled breakage, especially when using stronger aftermarket springs).

There are many ways to convert Longshots into "shotgun-gripped" versions. You can find many examples of similiar mods at the various Nerf forums. Most of the mods require a fair bit of blaster modification and custom work though.

I use a slightly different (and simpler) method, with the objective to shotgun grip my Longshots without drilling or cutting the blaster casing, so that they can be reversible back to stock condition anytime and the shotgun grip can be transferred to another Longshot easily.

Okay, let's start...

Step 1: Remove the original bipod legs from the Longshot.

Step 2: Measure and draw out the arms and grip dimensions.

Here is my sample template (download and print it out in A4 size borderless mode).

Superimpose the schematics on the polycarbonate sheet. I use 3mm polycarbonate for the grip but 6mm polycarbonate for the arms (6mm thickness is highly recommended for the arms, especially for Longshots with stronger springs).

Cut out the sections using a jig saw or scroll saw. Please be careful when using power tools. Use a hobby knife or file to round off the corners slightly and smoothen the rough edges.

Step 3: Using a heat gun, i shaped the grip section into a U shape with twin inverted guide rails. Again, please be careful when using heating tools.

Step 4: Position the grip and arms.

Line up the screw points and use a motorised rotary tool (ie. Dremel) to drill the necessary holes.

Step 5: Position and solvent glue 2 small pieces of polycarbonate within the inverted guide rails, tinker with the dimensions until you get them to the right size and position.

This helps keep the grip in a level position when in operation.

Step 6: Assemble all the parts together.

I used 4 x 3mm diameter screws, washers and nuts to attach both arms to the grip, and a single long 4.5mm diameter screw, washer and nut to thread through the original charging handle points and secure the arms to the bolt sled.

Here is another example of my polycarbonate shotgun grip with some additional shaping and trimming for customised ergonomics to suit my personal grip style.

As you can see, no drilling or cutting of the original Longshot casing is required.

The polycarbonate shotgun grip's inverted guide rails basically ride along the Longshot's existing groove at the bottom part of the front section.

This is just a quick guide to show a simple way it can be done... there are many other methods to do it too, see what suits your preference! :)

Nerf Recon "Brass Breech" Mod Guide!

2010-04-15T14:45:00.000+08:00

Due to popular requests, here is a mod guide for the "Brass Breech" modification for the Nerf Recon.

This mod is also applicable to other Nerf N-Strike blasters with reverse plunger setups (ie. Raider, Deploy, Longstrike, Alpha Trooper etc).

Background:

For a background of what a Brass Breech is and what it does, please refer to the Longshot "Brass Breech" Mod Guide.

Introduction:

This mod guide will look very similar to the Longshot "Brass Breech" Mod Guide as they follow a similar modding process, but there are some specific differences in parts measurements, positioning and fit that modders will have to take note of.

To establish expectations, due to the smaller reverse plunger setup in Recons (or any of the other reverse plunger blasters), the potential performance gains will naturally be much less significant than in a Longshot.

Important Note:

The "Brass Breech" mod is a more advanced mod project that should only be performed by those who are already familiar with modding the Recon.

For new modders, refer to the Nerf Recon Mod Guide to get familiar with the modding basics first.

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

Lets begin...

Step 1:

You will need to obtain 4 different sizes of brass tubes (Brand: K&S Engineering).

The brass tube sizes are: 1/2", 17/32", 9/16" and 19/32". All of them are 0.014" wall thickness. They are usually supplied at hobby shops in either 1 ft or 3 ft length tubes.

Oxidization tends to occur in store bought supplies, so give the brass tubes a good polish with some Brasso Metal Polish, polish both externally and inside the tubes, this helps smoothen out the surfaces for lower friction.

Step 2:

We will work on the barrel and bolt receiver first.

In this example, i'm using 6" of 9/16" brass tube for the barrel.

Take a Rotary Tool with a cutting wheel, and cut a 7.5 cm length bolt receiver half-pipe in the 9/16" brass tube.

Use a sanding bit to round out the edges and corners.

Please be careful when handling such hobby tools, wear protective eyewear, dust masks and gloves.

Step 3:

To help the chambered darts achieve an even tighter air seal, make tightening rings in the barrel.

Use a Rotary Pipe Cutter and create the tightening rings. Just tighten the pipe cutter slightly around the brass tube, then rotate. Do it a few times to create the tightening rings.

Okay, that's all for the brass barrel and bolt receiver, you can put it aside for now.

Step 4:

We will now go on to the bolt section of the breech.

Separately cut out a set of brass tube sections in the following lengths:

1/2" brass tube: 10.5 cm
17/32" brass tube: 3 cm
9/16" brass tube : 2 cm
19/32" brass tube : 14 cm (4 cm for bolt half-pipe)

These are my custom tube measurements for a breech system for the Nerf Recon that can chamber standard-sized darts. In addition, it also features a more secure "half-pipe" bolt attachment point design.

The measurements need to be as accurate as possible. Any variations may affect the overall structure and air seal of the breech system.

Step 5:

Cut the original stock plastic bolt at the section shown below.

Nest all the 4 brass sections for the bolt completely into the plastic bolt end-piece.

Here is my Nested Brass Tubes Cut-Away Diagram for the Nerf Recon:

Use the strongest glue you can get to glue everything together. I use slow-curing 2-part strong epoxy glue. Make sure the glue cures completely for maximum bond strength.

Completed nested brass bolt assembly.

Nested brass bolt internal assembly.

Step 6:

We will now need to do a test alignment of the various components.

Secure the brass barrel inside the original orange plastic barrel by wrapping it with electrical or duct tape to temporarily widen it's outer diameter, so that the brass barrel can be wedged tightly inside the plastic barrel, yet still movable to allow adjustments for test fittings.

Check all the part positions and make sure that a clip with a standard-sized dart can fit nicely into the breech opening.

Note that the 19/32" brass bolt half-pipe will slide over the 9/16" brass barrel half-pipe, which in turn slides into the brass bolt assembly.

Step 7:

To attach the brass bolt to the bolt sled, we will need to cut out the attachment piece from the original plastic bolt.

Position the brass bolt, attachment piece and bolt sled in the casing and note the maximum forward and backward movement of the bolt to find the correct point to attach the plastic attachment tip to the brass bolt.

Note that a segment of plastic behind the attachment point has to be trimmed thinner so that it can slide into the plunger casing properly. Just whittle it down until it fits.

Use some sandpaper to roughen the surfaces on the plastic attachment tip and brass bolt, then use the strongest glue you can get to glue the 2 parts together. Again, i use slow-curing 2-part strong epoxy glue here too. As always, make sure the glue cures completely for maximum bond strength.

This is the section that has to take the most load, especially when stronger springs are used.

Step 8:

Assemble everything together into the casing, note that the pop-up blocker plate mechanisms are all removed, we don't need those anymore.

Step 9:

Test your "Brass Breech" Recon!

Breech open.

Breech closed.

Once you are confident that everything works properly, you can then proceed to permanently glue the brass barrel inside the orange plastic barrel. DIY some plastic spacer rings along the brass barrel to keep it centered within.

Its complete!

Sample Test Fire Results:

PTG: Parallel-To-Ground (Shoulder height, no elevation)
ATG: Angled-To-Ground (Aimed higher, 30 degrees elevation)

Distance is measured at where the dart lands (Average of 5 darts). Brass Barrel Length is 6".

Brass Breech Recon (AR Removal & 11kg Load Aftermarket Spring)
PTG = 60 ft
ATG = 70 ft

Note that the test was done indoors and the results are sample estimates for reference (your results may differ depending on materials and mod techniques used).

Important Usage Tips:

- Clips must be loaded only when the breech closed. This is so that the clip feed-lips can "catch" around the brass bolt for a proper fit.

- For smooth dart chambering process, make sure that foam darts used are no more than 7 cm in length.

- The better the foam dart fit in the brass barrel, the better the range results.

- Due to the smaller air volume of the Recon reverse plunger, using longer barrels may cause the foam darts to get stuck as it doesn't have enough power to propel them out. If that occurs, reduce the barrel length and test again.

Nerf Magstrike Mod - Air Compressor System!

2010-03-26T12:17:00.050+08:00

The Nerf Magstrike has proven to be a popular high RoF blaster amongst Nerf players. It has a comfortable form factor, uses a clip-based ammo system, is powered by compressed air and can fire in both full-auto and burst-fire.

But even though its air bladder can be modded to hold more air volume to fire more clips at a time, there is still a limit to that function, not to mention all the physical effort required to manually pump it up!

The solution = Air Compressor Mod!

Disclaimer: Modify at your own risk. Modifications may wear out or damage your blaster. Please be careful when using hobby tools!

Lets begin...

Air Compressor Mod

Step 1: Obtain Pressure-rated Air Hoses, Air Hose Couplers and Tire Valves. In the photo below, i've displayed the various components that can be used.

Tire valves can be sourced from car workshops or garages.

The transparent pressure-rated air hoses are 6mm OD / 4mm ID in dimension, exact match for the original Magstrike air hoses.

I usually use 2 types of air hose couplers for my mods, the transparent ones are nylon barbed tee or splicer air hose couplers, these will require additional clamping or epoxy glue to secure them to the air hoses.

The black-coloured air hose couplers are special tee or splicer air hose couplers that feature a quick-release system. Just insert the air hose in to engage the automatic internal clamp and air seal. To detach, just press the blue plastic collar to release it.

Pressure-rated air hoses and couplers can be sourced from pneumatic equipment manufacturers and suppliers.

In this mod, i'll be using the quick-release air hose couplers so that the system can be modular.

Step 2: Obtain a Portable Car Tire Air Compressor, a 12V Sealed Rechargable Battery, a 12V Plug Adaptor and a set of Electrical Cables.

Portable car tire air compressors can be sourced from car workshops or garages.

The 12V sealed rechargable battery, 12V plug adaptor and electrical cables can be sourced from electronics or hardware stores.

Step 3: Open up the Magstrike. Make sure it is a fully working unit without any air leaks.

DO NOT remove or plug the over-pressure valve (OPV).

If the OPV has been disabled, DO NOT perform this mod until its enabled or properly repaired.

When the Magstrike is connected to an air compressor, the OPV will act as a constant safe-guard to prevent over inflation (and resulting rupturing) of the air bladder system by releasing excess air pressure, it has to be functioning properly to avoid damage to the blaster (or user).

Step 4: Cut the air hose between the air pump and air bladder system. Remove the original air pump.

Step 5: Connect the air hose and quick-release splicer air hose coupler.

Step 6: Attach the air hose to the tire valve using 2-part epoxy glue, make sure the glue fills all the gaps but yet does not seep into the connection to ensure an unrestricted air-flow.

In my example, i used a smaller section of air hose connected to the tire valve, for modular design, and connected it to another quick-release splicer air hose coupler.

Connect the tire valve to the air compressor, which is in turn linked up to the 12V battery.

Test it out to check that everything is working properly, the air bladder should fill up and stay filled for an extended period of time, any decrease in pressure will indicate a leak somewhere in the system.

For those interested to know, the air compressor i use has an in-built pressure gauge, so i can track that the air bladder at full air volume (without the white retaining shell and after the OPV activates) is operating at around 50-60 PSI.

Alternative Step: The air compressor system can also retain the original air pump. Just use a tee air pressure hose coupler instead to connect the air bladder, air pump and tire valve.

Note that with this alternative method, due to the limited space between the air bladder and air pump, the air pump may require some additional adjustments in positioning within the casing, including some trimming of the casing to create an exit opening for the tire valve.

Step 7: Assemble the Magstrike casing... and its done!

Add-on Step: To fully automate the air compressor system, install an automatic "cut-off" switch to the air compressor's electrical circuit.

I used a "push-to-off" switch which can be sourced from electrical parts supply stores. When the air bladder fills up and expands to a certain size, its OPV plastic assembly will press onto the switch, thereby switching off the air compressor. When the Magstrike is fired and the air bladder decreases in size, the switch will then be released and the air compressor will resume pumping air. This system regulates the air compressor to automatically pump air only when required.

Ammo Clip Management

With all that continuous supply of air pressure, the Magstrike will now need ALOT of clips.

Magstrike clips are much larger than N-Strike clips though... so how to carry them efficiently?

To solve that issue, i customised an Ammo Clip Belt System which consists of a thick nylon tactical belt with adjustable "dump" pouches that fit the Magstrike clips.

Harness System

I'm not keen on the idea of tethering cables or hoses from waist pouches or backpacks to blasters, i've found that method ungainly and too restrictive. Loose cables tend to get tangled up easily, especially when quick response and fast movement is required during games.

So i customised an Air Compressor System Harness to mount the entire system onto the Magstrike itself. Therefore, a Magstrike with the air compressor system can now become a completely stand-alone unit, which offers the best combination of flexibility and mobility.

Overall, the entire air compressor system (incl. battery) adds around 1.3kg to the Magstrike. It is abit heavier to carry, but i managed to adjust the weight distribution for equal weight balance between both harness pouches, so the blaster can still be held and fired comfortably.

Ready to go!

Test Fire & Demo Video

Yeah, i know... the air compressor is quite a noisy piece of equipment! :)