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Saturday, December 4, 2010

Nerf Barricade "Clip Conversion" Mod Guide!

What if the Nerf Barricade could use N-Strike clips and mags?

This blaster modification project is a joint development between SgNerf and pSyK (very cool Nerf enthusiast and modder at the NerfSG forum), without him this project would still be on the drawing boards.

I initially started on the project with an early prototype but pSyK was the one who developed the final design and functionality for this Barricade clip conversion mod.

Full credit goes to pSyK for his excellent design and implementation!

Introducing... the Nerf Barricade ECS!



Before the conversion is done, the Barricades are all modded with:
- Voltage Increase
- Trigger Activated Power On
- Flywheel Adjustment

Click this link for more information on the various performance mods: Nerf Barricade Mod Guide

Okay, here is how its converted...

- Nerf Barricade Clip Conversion Process -

Step 1:

Remove the original 10-dart turret and cut a channel at the bottom of the casing, make sure the gap is wide enough to allow a N-Strike clip to fit through properly. Cut away the turret advancement stalk too.




Step 2:

We will now create the clip securing system.

Trim off the turret advancement stem part way, this will now act as part of the clip positioning design.

In my example, i installed machine screws at positions which correspond to the clip notches and dimensions, these will be the parts that will hold the clip securely in the blaster and position it in the correct alignment.



Other materials like rubber padding or plastic bolts can also be used to create the clip securing system, just experiment and try out various methods to develop other types of clip securing system designs.


Step 3:

Trim and shape part of the casing as shown in the photo below, this will also form part of the clip securing system.



Note that this particular casing part will correspond to the shape of a notch in the front of the 6-dart clip and 18/35-dart drum mags, the 18-dart clip will need just a slight trim on it's front section to match the same notch as the rest.


Step 4:

Remove the trigger lock (found behind the trigger mechanism), this will allow the trigger to be able to be half pulled without getting stuck.

For convenience, also remove the access hatch door and lock mechanism. If you have a soldering iron, you can also remove the pressure switch and re-solder the wires back together (then you'll now have a spare pressure switch to use in other projects).




Step 5:

Add some padding on the dart pusher stem to extend its travel, this will help it to push the foam darts further into the flywheels for better contact.

Make sure the dart pusher travel is neither too long or too short, it must be just right. Keep testing until it achieves a perfect positioning.

The amount of extension padding will depend on each particular Barricade unit as individual units may differ slightly in parts fit.




Step 6:

With the clip conversion done, the dart pusher stem will need to retract much faster so that the next foam dart can advance up the clip to be ready for firing. If the dart pusher stem is too slow to retract, jams will occur.

The solution is to increase the load on the dart pusher stem's retraction spring.

Simply pull the spring back halfway and bolt it down.




Step 7:

Load in a clip and test that all the parts and components are aligned properly.

Make sure the flywheels can spin freely without obstruction. Ensure that the foam darts can be pushed forward and propelled consistently by the flywheels.




Step 8:

Assemble everything together and start running your firing tests.

Make any necessary adjustment required to achieve consistent and reliable firing performance.




Final Step:

Ditch the turrets... grab your clips and mags.

The era of clip-fed semi-auto Nerf sidearms is finally here!







Note:
- The 18-dart drum mag can also be used with this clip conversion.
- The 35-dart drum mag tends to be abit too heavy for this current conversion design, it'll need to be additionally supported when in use.

Update!
- "moddersunited" at the HvZ Forums has found another alternative method to secure the clips, check out his mod via this Link.


Nerf Barricade "Clip Conversion" - Demo & Test Fire Video!

119 comments:

  1. Best idea ever! Watch as Nerf comes out with a semi-auto pistol that takes clips just to compete with you. 35-dart drum on that looks rather interesting.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. what r u retarded haven't u heard of the stryfe

      Delete
    2. Not back in 2010... the Stryfe isn't released until almost 3 years later in 2013. :)

      Delete
  2. remotecontrolaholic,

    Read my "Nerf Barricade Mod Guide" for more info on the performance mods and ranges:

    http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-mod-guide.html

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hi. I know this isn't about the barricade, but I have a question. I'm about to get either the Vulcan or the Stampede. I know the Stampede is newer and probably "better", but the Vulcan has an undeniable awesome quality.

    Anyway, it all comes down to reliability and modding for me. I've read that the vulcan tends to jam a lot. Has anyone else noticed this? Also, what modding options are there for each? I can do easy-moderate things (the above barricade mod is just outside my comfort level).

    I've read all the posts about them on this site, but would like more info before I invest.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Stampede is much more portable then the Vulcan, and can even be used on handed. The Vulcan also can have jamming issues, but so can the Stampede, depending on the unit. But one thing with the Stampede is that it runs out of rounds quickly, and realistically preforms better with a thirty-five round drum, which gives it ten more rounds then the Vulcan. And the Vulcan only uses chain belts, and is the only gun like that, which is a logistical downside, creating the need to buy more belts. Frankly, I would choose the Stampede for general combat, but the Vulcan can provide invaluable cover fire. :D

      Delete
    2. the newest (well, newer) version of the vulcan is much more reliable than the original. That is what I have heard. I have a stampede, and stock ranges are just suckish, but modded, it is good.

      Delete
    3. Stampede much lighter and better aiming for elite dart assault rifle rapidstrike rapidstrike has slightly higher Rate Of Fire and is lighter and can be adjusted

      Delete
  4. Peter,

    Check the Vulcan and Stampede Mod Guides in this site, the guides should give you an idea on what mods can be done on them.

    Note that one of the reasons why Stampedes are much more popular nowadays is because they have the flexibility to use N-Strike clips and magazines, and are designed to be carried easily and shoulder fired on the move... which is ideal for the majority of Nerf game scenarios.

    The Vulcan is heavier and more bulky and designed as more of a static emplacement blaster, the ammo belt system is really a hassle to manage when used on the move, hence it has rather limited appeal to players. It is suitable for some Nerf game scenarios (ie. defend the base, turret deployment etc) but for the majority of fast-paced Nerf games, players aren't really keen to run around lugging a bulky blaster with ammo belts dangling all over the place... unless they want to imitate Rambo. :)

    ReplyDelete
  5. Dear SG Nerf,

    Which would be better to adapt to the Barricade, the 18 dart drum or the 18 dart extended clip?

    Also with the top of the Barricade open, is it possible to load darts back into the clip while the clip is still in the blaster?

    ReplyDelete
  6. Dull,

    Both the 18-dart drum mag and 18-dart clip have been tested to work equally well in converted Barricades, though the 18-dart drum mag is abit more practical due to its shorter overall length.

    Its possible to load foam darts directly into the clip via the opening on top of the Barricade too, but i've still found it easier and faster to load in the foam darts with the clip separate from the blaster.

    ReplyDelete
  7. If i ever do get the money,Can i buy the barricade of you?Oh and also why is my google account joe when my name is zach?

    ReplyDelete
  8. joe,

    Nope, i don't have time to make items for others, thats why i post up mod and conversion guides so that people can make them on their own.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Can you find a way to put a Recon's magwell onto a Barricade then make a tutorial? My Recon longer works so I have no other use for it and I don't like the 10 round limit on the Barricade.

      Delete
    2. tommy,

      I don't see a need to use a Recon's mag well when i can already do the mod without using it (its basically a waste of extra material and steps).

      If you still want to use a Recon's mag well, just search online for other guides which copied my original mod that use additional mag well parts.

      Delete
  9. Hey SG, Do you think that you could post a picture of your entire collection so far? It would be so cool to see the whole thing!

    ReplyDelete
  10. A very cool blaster mod.But, the barricade isnt in canada yet. When it comes out, should i get it, and mod it, or should i get the spectre?
    They seem very good. BTW I really love this site and your SG Nerf site. I stumbled upon it last night when i was searching up reviews on the stampede on youtube, found your demo, and looked at this video on your channel and loved it. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  11. Did you ever think to cut apart an old Recon to for the clips area? Seems like it would be a lot easier to be hit a switch and drop the mag.

    ReplyDelete
  12. tommydudeguy,

    Get the Nerf Barricade, its semi-auto firing feature has practical advantages over single shot blasters that need to be manually primed.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Niklas Delacroix,

    Yes, after this clip conversion guide was posted, other modders have also started developing alternative ways to secure the clips too, check out this method by "moddersunited" at the HvZ forum:

    http://forums.humansvszombies.org/index.php/topic,2338.0.html

    ReplyDelete
  14. could you post a slightly more detailed guide as in how long the screws were and roughly where you put them because i'm worried i might screw this up and barricades don't come around all that often. thanks

    ReplyDelete
  15. matt,

    Just place the clip at the correct position and then mark out the various points to install the machine screws.

    ReplyDelete
  16. Hey SG,

    I use my Barricade as my anti-bad guy* armament for riding my bike every day. I put it in a smallish messenger bag measuring 21 cm high by 25 cm long with a 5 cm cut in the flap crease to let the rear of the gun through. When my Barricade is in this MacGyverized drop holster, the gun fits in up to the trigger. I have a few questions:

    1. Would the modified Barricade fit in my messenger bag holster with a 6-dart clip?
    2. Does the modified Barricade tend to foul up darts like the Recon?
    3. Is there a way to take out the sidewalls that used to hold the turret in, yet still make the clip stable?
    4. Is the voltage increase neccesary?
    5. How long does the mod take?
    6. How long does the modified blaster take to cycle between rounds?
    7. How's the accuracy?

    Thanks for your time,

    CrazyBrick ("Wolf" in the field)

    ReplyDelete
  17. CrazyBrick,

    Answers:

    1. Seems like it should be able to fit.
    2. There are still chances of jams occurring if faulty foam darts are used or the mod is not done properly.
    3. Sure, its possible. Though the plastic sides are a simple way to help to keep the clip more stable.
    4. If you want more range, you'll need to increase the voltage.
    5. A few hours.
    6. Watch the demo and test-fire video.
    7. Depends on the foam darts used: With streamlines, they have naturally unreliable accuracy past 20+ft... but with custom calibrated foam darts, much better accuracy at longer ranges.

    ReplyDelete
  18. On an unrelated note..
    I've been looking through your blog and it is brilliant. Everything is explained and I'm using it for all my mods, but I noticed there was no Longstrike mod mentioned. I love my Longstrike very much. It was my first nerf gun for HVZ and almost feel bad modding all my other guns without it.

    ReplyDelete
  19. Chris,

    I didn't post up a Longstrike mod guide 'cos its basically the same as modding a Recon or Raider.

    You can just refer to the Recon or Raider mod guides for the common modding steps. :)

    ReplyDelete
  20. It would be soooooo awesome to duel wield 2 of these with 18 dart clips.

    ReplyDelete
  21. Is it really necessary to take out the pressure switch and jam door? I'd rather keep my barricade that way

    ReplyDelete
  22. !zt,

    Removing the jam door and it's pressure switch is an optional step.

    I do it simply for convenience. Without the jam door, i can clear jams more quickly and easily observe when the ammo clip is empty.

    ReplyDelete
  23. Hey SGNerf,

    Sorry to have to bother you again, but my Barricade's opened up and I JUST figured out how you're doing the clip stabilization. Problem is, I don't have the drill and extra screws needed for your clip stabilization, nor do I have an extra Raider (or any Raiders) laying around for moddersunited's mod. The only thing close to padding I have is some quarter-inch furniture non-skid stuff. I'll actually have to pass on this mod until I see what Santa (=P) drops down the chimney Christmas.

    This is what happens when you don't read the instructions prior to making the mod...

    ReplyDelete
  24. I just got mine yesterday and am thinking that from what I've seen it would be a cool idea to change the turret system so that it has a side to remove it through and then build a grip on the bottom of the turret shroud

    ReplyDelete
  25. Woah! That looks really awesome. It looks like thats how you found it out of the box! Oh, and I have another question for you; Do you know if the Longshot and Nite Finder o-rings are different sizes?

    ReplyDelete
  26. Derick,

    The Longshot and Nite Finder o-rings are different size, they require specific dimensions to fit.

    ReplyDelete
  27. XD Yeah, I realized that after i posted it. And one more question, For a spring addition on the Ls, would a Recon or Nitefinder spring be more powerful, and would either one have enough power when combined with the stock spring to crack the bolt sled? I know it will eventually wear down in the long run(years) But what's the likely hood of the bolt sled breaking? I only seem to have plastic coat hangers, and can't rally get other materials.

    ReplyDelete
  28. Derick,

    The Nite Finder spring would be a better choice.

    As with any increase in spring load, the bolt sled will be under additional stress so there will always be a higher chance of breakage.

    When will it break? It'll depend on how you use it and perhaps abit of luck, could be after many games... or after just a few shots.

    As always, expect things to break when you modify them... so mod at your own risk. :)

    ReplyDelete
  29. have you done any tests to see how long it takes to burn out the motors after your mods

    ReplyDelete
  30. mrmastermain,

    Well, i've been using a pair of modded versions at various Nerf games for the past few months (i'd estimate an average 350-400+ shots fired from each unit so far)... with 8.4V from unprotected high discharge rate Li-Ion batteries, the motors are still running okay.

    I guess only time will tell when the motors finally wear out. :)

    ReplyDelete
  31. hello. im new to modding nerf guns so i wanted to kno:

    -what kind of tools should i get familiar with?
    -what guns should i start off with (i was thinking about the barricade or the maverick but i wanted an expert's opinion)?

    thank you in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  32. I found some 3v AA batteries, do you think 6v would be enough, or do you think 9v would be too much? I know i should buy the trustfire, but the 3v i can use with dummy batteries for other household things, (a 3.4v battery is less likely to be used on other projects)
    By the way, i love this guide, and im planning on doing it tomorrow, ill try to post pictures when im done. Thanks for this!

    ReplyDelete
  33. OMGitsDeeJay15,

    The basic tools i use for modding:

    - Good quality #0 & #1 size precision screwdrivers
    - Hobby knife
    - Dremel with drill bit, sanding bits and cutting discs (for plastic and metal materials)
    - High strength 2-part epoxy glue

    Thats all i use!

    If you want to start modding, a Nite Finder would be a simple and relatively easy blaster to mod to get noticeably improved performance.

    ReplyDelete
  34. Zach,

    I'm not sure what kind of batteries are those 3V ones you mentioned, so i can't really advise much on that.

    I guess you'll just have to test them out to see if they can work well.

    ReplyDelete
  35. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uwSXXuAuSs

    This video shows clearly how to do this step by step with a raider magwell. It is worth taking a look at. I also maximize the flywheel potential.

    ReplyDelete
  36. Hey SG...

    Thanks for the cool mod! I'm having one problem though. I can't seem to get my plunger to the right length. It either is too long and blocks the darts from coming out of the clip, or it is too short and wont push the dart far enough. Is there anything I can do to fix this?

    ReplyDelete
  37. Bill,

    Thats the tricky part of the mod, you'll need to keep adjusting and testing the length and travel of the dart pusher rod to get the best combination.

    ReplyDelete
  38. I'd be willing to buy a modded one from someone..

    ReplyDelete
  39. What is the max voltage the barricades stock motors will take

    ReplyDelete
  40. Aditya,

    It seems to depend on the type of batteries used.

    So far with unprotected Li-Ion batteries, the motors work well at 8.4V but stall at 12.6V. So i guess that gives an idea of the voltage limits with unprotected Li-Ion batteries.

    Modders have managed to get higher voltages working with normal alkaline batteries (though the motors don't spin as fast), i guess its because alkaline batteries have limited discharge rates, and would therefore perform differently at the same voltage compared to unprotected Li-Ion batteries.

    Read my Nerf Barricade Mod Guide for more information on battery voltage:

    http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-mod-guide.html

    ReplyDelete
  41. dear sg Nerf
    do you have to use rechargeable batteries and also do you have to remove the airlock from the gun when doing a clip conversion on the Nerf barricade
    thank you
    from TheAadelwillown

    ReplyDelete
  42. TheAadelwillown,

    Its not essential to do those other mods... the blaster will still function with normal alkaline batteries and with the jam access door intact.

    Using higher voltage rechargeable batteries simply makes it more efficient and provides more power, and removing the jam access door just makes it easier to use.

    ReplyDelete
  43. Mr SGNerf
    I was curious not on the mod (which I will be trying out after my bloody finals) but rather on the clamp you used on the battery cartage. What size is it?

    ReplyDelete
  44. rcant001,

    I assume you are referring to the retrofitted metal "quick-release" buckle securing the battery hatch. That buckle is around 3-4 cm (approx 1.5 inches) in length. I got it from a neighborhood hardware store. :)

    ReplyDelete
  45. I just wanted to clarify this: are the two screws placed closer together at the bottom of the gun designed to fit *into* the deep notch at the back of the clip (i.e. the same notch the clip-release on a recon would slide into to prevent the clip sliding out), whilst the top two are just there to stop the clip moving side to side?

    ReplyDelete
  46. Nathan,

    Yes, you have the right idea. :)

    The machine screws can also be tightened or loosened whenever necessary to adjust the clip fit too.

    ReplyDelete
  47. can someone please tell me how to cut step 1 thats like all i need

    ReplyDelete
  48. Jeffery,

    I use a Dremel with cutting disc to cut out the bottom of the casing.

    You could use a handsaw or hobby knife too, but it'll be much easier and faster with a Dremel. :)

    ReplyDelete
  49. Hey SG Nerf i voltage modded my Barricade to 10.5V if im correct by first using a 1.5V battery into the first slot of the battery compartment then the other battery is a 9V rectangular battery which i connected by using a 9V connector wif both the red and black wires and simply putting them to the Positive and Negative charges. If definitely shoots further and of course makes a hell lot more noise. BTW i oso live in SG!!!

    ReplyDelete
  50. ILiveIn,

    Although it can work, please DO NOT mix batteries of different voltages and capacities together in the same circuit! Thats is dangerous in circuit setups. It can result in damage to the batteries or circuit, or injury if the batteries encounter early failure and explode.

    So for the sake of safety, make sure you link up your circuit with batteries of equal voltage and capacities.

    ReplyDelete
  51. Is it possible to skip Step 4? Keep the trigger lock mechanism while be able to use mags anyway?

    ReplyDelete
  52. estryark,

    Well, you can just try leaving the trigger lock mechanism parts intact and see if it works for your unit.

    From my experience, the trigger lock mechanism tends to jam up the trigger pull, especially when firing quickly. So its removal makes the overall blaster operation more usable.

    ReplyDelete
  53. Can the lock mechanism be removed even if I don't have the Trigger Activated Power On adjustment? (I have no extra wires and I don't have soldering tools). Would it change how the On/Off switch work?

    Thanks for the replies.

    ReplyDelete
  54. estryark,

    Yes, you can remove the trigger lock mechanism as a stand-alone mod on its own... many modders do just that mod to eliminate the issues of the trigger getting stuck while firing.

    It will not affect the operation of the On/Off switch.

    ReplyDelete
  55. I just modded my barricade but i have a problem.

    It seems to work when there's only 1 dart in the mag, but when there's 2, the first dart doesn't reach the wheels because the second dart below brakes the push...

    What I mean is try pulling the last dart from a mag, then try pulling the first dart from a full mag, the sliding is different.

    ReplyDelete
  56. Note that I have not the extra voltage and the flywheel adjustment...can they both be the cause of the problem?

    ReplyDelete
  57. estryark,

    Most likely your dart pusher stalk just needs to be extended abit more, follow the tips on Step 5 of the guide.

    In addition, applying tape to the flywheels can also help to further improve the loading of the foam darts.

    ReplyDelete
  58. What's the highest rate of fire now if you pull the trigger your fastest?

    ReplyDelete
  59. Luke Liu,

    With the "Time Crisis" style firing method, i can probably achieve up to 3-4 shots per second reliably. :)

    ReplyDelete
  60. Have you had any problem with the flywheel motors burning out?

    ReplyDelete
  61. crazyfornerf,

    So far, the motors in my modded units are still working fine.

    I guess the motors could naturally wear out eventually. Luckily they can be replaced quite easily with Tamiya mini racing motors. :)

    ReplyDelete
  62. Have you thought about making the clip reciver on the side of the gun, like the raider. It would make it a lot easier to add a clip reciver from another gun.

    ReplyDelete
  63. crazyfornerf,

    Yes, some modders do this conversion in their own style using clip receiver/slot parts from other blasters... but i prefer not to have to cannibalize my other blasters just for parts, since i can already do my original clip mod without those extra parts anyways. :)

    ReplyDelete
  64. Two questions.
    1: What attachment did you use on the Dremel? I know you used one because I read your earlier posts.
    2: could I use a jigsaw to cut the slit in the bottom? I don't want to have to invest in a Dremel unless I have to.
    Thanks in advance.

    ReplyDelete
  65. d-man979,

    To cut the plastic blaster casing with dremel, i use a cutting disc + mandrel attachment (the disc has serrated teeth designed to cut plastic/wood).

    I guess you could use a jigsaw to cut the plastic too, though it would be easier to do more precise cuts with a dremel. :)

    ReplyDelete
  66. Hey SG nerf, just wondering due to having to alter the structure of the casing cutting some sections out, is it possible to re fit the 10 dart barrel in the weapon at a later stage for when you require a more compact firearm that can hold more then the small 6 dart clips, or would that require re building the sections altered in step 3?
    Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  67. Elliot.

    I guess you'll probably need to do a work-around at Step 3 'cos that part of the casing secures the 10-shot turret.

    Note that the turret advancement stalk is also cut away in this mod, so you'll also need to glue it back for the 10-shot turret to work again.

    ReplyDelete
  68. For some reason I like this version the best.

    ReplyDelete
  69. sdnerf-
    i accidentaly cut off too much of the casing when i was doing step 3. is there any way i can correct it? i really apreciate your help.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. d-man979,

      If its just that bit of plastic casing, i guess you can maybe install machine screws there or shape and glue on a piece of plastic on that part to create something to fit the notch in the clip... it is basically to add additional support to hold the clip securely.

      Delete
  70. any idea how to sucure it?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. d-man979,

      Maybe put some foam padding or plastic brackets at the sides so that the clip can wedge into them? Just think of different methods to try.

      Delete
  71. hey SG nerf i got a problem when doing this mod...i done this mod to my 2 barricade and both of them fail..and i threw it....can you tell me

    1)how thick(in cm) is the padding?

    2)how wide(in cm) are those channel?

    3)what is the height(in cm) between those 2
    small screw(below Part) and the channel?

    4)how wide(in cm) far apart those screws
    (below part) from each other?

    5)what is the height(in cm) those screw from
    upper part and below part from each other?

    6)what is the distance between from those 2 upper part screw each other?


    pls pls pls help me i dont want to fail again

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Unknown,

      I've since chopped up my modded unit and used the components for other mods, so i don't have it anymore for measuring the parts.

      From what i can remember, the width of the channel is just cut to fit the width of a N-Strike clip (just use a clip as reference).

      For the position of the machine screws, you can just approximate from the photos in relation to the other parts, no need to be 100% exact, they just need to match your clip and hold it in (so it doesn't drop out)... just place the clip in the slot to mark the machine screw positions.

      The dart pusher padding is just 2-3mm thick, you also have to adjust that on your own to match the length your particular foam darts.

      Basically just adjust and tweak the measurements as you mod it to adapt to the clip. :)

      Delete
  72. do you think the mod could work with whistler darts and a drum mag? i know that the whistlers work with 6-clips

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. d-man979,

      Well, the main issue is that whistler/sonic foam darts can't be used in drum mags due to their larger tips, so that's the limitation.

      Delete
  73. Would a mod like this this be possible for the Vulcan?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. sasori.nara,,

      Well, the Vulcan uses a belt feed/piston firing system so its very different in operation to the flywheel/dart pusher system on the Barricade.

      You'd have to find another method to mod the Vulcan to use clips, 'cos there is nothing in that blaster that pushes or chambers the foam darts.

      Imho, its much easier just to get a Stampede in the first place. :)

      Delete
  74. How do remove the jam door/safety without doing anything to the wires?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      Just wrap a layer of tape around the jam door's pressure switch to keep it pressed down, so that its kept activated even when you remove the jam door.

      Delete
  75. well i just got done with the a 9v mod,the clip mod and my special barrel mod take a look here(http://s278.photobucket.com/albums/kk118/tg4life666/Nerf%20MODS/) if you would like and give feed back but most importantly i couldnt have done most of this without this website with its guides thanks again SG

    ReplyDelete
  76. Is spring stretching a good idea? And is this mod reversible? Where can you buy extra wire for the trigger activated power on?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Boy who mods anything,

      Its usually not an ideal practice to stretch springs, 'cos that tends to bend them out of shape (its better to use proper springs instead)... but if there aren't any suitable springs on hand, then it can still be a quick solution for certain minor parts or mechanisms.

      This clip conversion mod for the Barricade is not reversible, once you finish the mod, it can't be reverted back to a rotating turret based blaster (due to the cutting of the turret advancement stalk).

      You can get spools of suitable electrical wiring from most electrical parts supply shops... or just see if you can cut some extra lengths of wiring from the existing system to use.

      Delete
  77. Can you mod a Nerf Longstrike and are there any specific mods for it? Also, can you put a recon stock spring with a longstrike stock spring to make it more powerful? Thank you.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Boy who mods anything,

      Yes, the Longstrike can be modded too, its modding process is similar to the Recon or Raider (they all share the same internal spring plunger and bolt system design):

      http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/10/nerf-recon-mod-guide.html

      http://modworks.blogspot.com/2009/09/nerf-raider-mod-guide.html

      Unfortunately, you cannot put 2 springs at the same time into these reverse plunger systems due to the spring being situated around the plunger tube (unlike in direct plunger systems which use a plunger rod design instead). There is not enough space between the plunger tube and casing for them to compress properly, hence causing issues during the priming process.

      Delete
  78. How do you remove the box holding the flywheels? I've been trying 4 days!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Boy who mods anything,

      The case holding the flywheel assembly seems to be glued together at one of the sides... so to avoid damaging it, i just simply pry the casing apart wide enough to remove the tray holding the flywheels, then its easy to work on it. After that, i repeat the process when installing it back.

      Delete
  79. That doesn't want to work. Do I need to remove the flywheel compartment screws? I have done that but it still doesn't open. Do I just pull harder on the compartment

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Boy who mods anything,

      Yes, you need to use more strength to pry apart the cover box so that the tray holding the motor and flywheels can be removed.

      Delete
  80. will i be able to do this with my n strike elite stockade or are their some parts in this mod that are unnecessary to do??????

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Anonymous,

      You can use this guide for reference, their internals are very similar... though you might need to adjust the trigger system abit 'cos the Stockade uses updated parts in that area.

      Delete
  81. Now that the Stryfe is coming up I can't help but smile when I see this.

    ReplyDelete
  82. Hi SG Nerf how do you make a dummy battery for the barricade cause I'm putting ultrafire battery and I only have 2 pls respond :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Kane Rubio,

      For my units, i use empty AAA to AA battery converter shells and just wedge a length of thick copper wire inside it.

      Here is a photo of the process:

      http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ynWOAg4YQB0/TJc0ZW2ZcwI/AAAAAAAACF0/dqonJ1ydUug/DIY%20Dummy%20AA%20Battery%20-%2004.JPG

      You can read more about it at my post at the NerfSG forum:

      http://nerfsg.freeforums.org/nerf-stampede-battery-guide-t1864.html

      Delete
    2. Hmm.....
      Is it possible to use the same battery method for all the spots where a battery goes? For instance, three Dummy Batteries for the Barricade RV-10 rather than one Dummy and two actual batteries?

      Delete
    3. Michael Baer,

      Yes, you could fill all 3 battery slots with dummy batteries... but then there wouldn't be anymore space for actual batteries to power the blaster. :)

      Delete
    4. Okay. So you still need at least one battery to power it. I thought that the Dummy batteries served as replacements and would still work like a regular.

      Delete
    5. Michael Baerm

      Yes, the Barricade uses electric motors to spin the flywheels to "throw" out the foam darts, so it requires batteries to power those electric motors.

      Refer to my Barricade Mod Guide:

      http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/09/nerf-barricade-mod-guide.html

      The speed of the motors is determined by the voltage feed, so the more batteries used (or higher voltage versions are used) the faster the motors will spin and hence "throwing" out the foam darts at higher speeds.

      The dummy batteries are just empty casings with a thick metal wire inside, they are basically used to link the existing electrical contacts and bypass the slot (it allows modders to use less batteries that have higher voltages so that they can control the voltage feed), there is no power in dummy batteries.

      Kindly read my Barricade Mod Guide to learn more about how these systems work. :)

      Delete
  83. SG, quick question. Do you you do paint jobs and would a camo, clip-fed barricade be possible because that would be awesome? I have a camo recon CS-6 and I would them to both be camo.
    I am going to spray paint.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Boy who mods anything,

      I don't do paint jobs... i prefer spending time modding blasters to improve their performance instead. :)

      I guess you can paint your blaster any scheme you like, its up to your creativity.

      Delete
  84. I meant ... (sorry for the miswording)
    Could you do that with all of the wiring?
    Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The Boy who mods anything,

      Should be okay, the wiring is all inside the casing, your camo paint job is on the outside of the casing, therefore it shouldn't affect performance.

      Delete
  85. Here is a question about the clip conversion. Is it possible to still leave the top slide piece on the gun while still keeping the conversion as is? Assuming, of course, that all of the mechanisms effected by the slide are taken out, it shouldn't be a problem to leave it on just for show, right?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Michael Baer,

      Yes, the jam access hatch on top can be kept intact... just that it's abit more of a hassle to keep opening it to clear jams. :)

      Delete
    2. Okay, then. Thanks for the info.

      Delete