How to ensure dart tips never split or detach during firing or impact?
How to make consistent flat tips for attaching the soft padding?
Here is one of the methods i use...
From left to right (top row):
- Remove the original tip from the foam dart.
- Insert the tip weight.
- Use a short section of 17/32" brass tube as a mold and sleeve it over the foam dart tip, allow 1-2mm of clearance from the brass tube edge.
- Apply hot glue into the brass tube mold, this will seal the tip weight and the foam dart together.
From left to right (bottom row):
- Put the mold tip first on a cool surface and press down on the foam dart to compress the hot glue and get rid of any bubbles. This will create a molded flat tip. Wait around 20-30 seconds for the hot glue to cool down and solidify.
- Remove the foam dart from the brass tube mold, trim the sides of the flat hot glue tip so that it is aligned with the foam dart outer diameter.
- For safety, attach a piece of soft padding to the flat hot glue tip. This helps to absorb the foam dart impact.
- Close-up of the completed custom weighted foam dart.
Hope that helps! :)
so after we put hot glue in the brass tube we just push it down wont this make the glue stick and were can I get a cold suface if it does work one more thing what did you use for a weight
ReplyDeleteKeenan,
ReplyDeleteHot glue is a very weak adhesive, its designed more for arts and craft work.
When in contact with metal or table/floor tile surfaces, hot glue can be easily rubbed off or detached.
For more information on tip weights, check my "Custom Calibrated Foam Darts - Conversion Guide":
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/08/custom-calibrated-foam-darts-conversion.html
so were can i get like a tile i only have carpet even in the kechin
ReplyDeleteKeenan,
ReplyDeleteEven your toilet is carpeted?
i dont know my mom will go insane if it gets stuck or anything happends and plus my dad gets mad when i use my hotglue gun inside for some reason so were can i get like a cheap tile or somthing around the house
ReplyDeleteKeenan,
ReplyDeleteIf finding a simple piece of tile or a cool surface to use is so difficult for you, then i think you have to ask an adult to help you out.
Awesome! but are there any FBR materials that are hollow, as I would like to use that method of weighting darts :)
ReplyDeletewanna-be,
ReplyDeleteWell, so far the majority of FBR i've seen available at hardware stores are made of solid foam as they are designed for filling gaps in building construction.
I have seen and used hollow FBR before, but those are more rare as they are usually custom made for other applications. I guess you can check around at the FBR companies and see if any of them sell hollow versions.
You're not using lead weights, correct? And do the weights have any impact on range, hitting power, and accuracy?
ReplyDeleteCrazyBrick,
ReplyDeleteIn my example above, i am using sections of eraser/rubber stick refills as tip weights.
In general, heavier tip weights usually increase range, accuracy and impact (hence the need for additional soft padding at the tips for safety).
But note that it also depends on blaster power. A heavy tip weighted foam dart used in a lower powered blaster may result in reduced range. For accuracy, the overall foam dart weight balance will also need to be optimized depending on foam type, length and density.
Therefore, to achieve increased range and accuracy, its important to test and calibrate foam darts to match each blaster.
hey, make a bolt action sniper rifle mod in longstrike to we see!!!
ReplyDeleteBumblebee,
ReplyDeleteNot sure what you are referring to... 'cos a stock Longstrike is already a bolt action blaster that looks like a sniper rifle.
So... when I take the rubber cap off, there's already a plug in the front, made out of the same material as the tip. It seems to be glued in and won't come out easily. How did you fully hollow out your darts?
ReplyDeleteAnother thing - any tips on weighting FBR darts? Just using a lot of glue on the tip tends to really stick in the pipe I'm using to shape it.
Peter,
ReplyDeleteWell, i use SDL brand foam darts for my conversions, those foam darts don't have the extra plug in the front so i don't have the issue of the plug remaining in the hollow foam.
If you are using Nerf foam darts, you'll have to carefully pull out the tip along with the attached plug so that both are removed at the same time.
For tip weights, you can try eraser stick refills, like in my "custom calibrated foam darts conversion" guide:
http://modworks.blogspot.com/2010/08/custom-calibrated-foam-darts-conversion.html
Eraser stick refill packs can usually be found at office supply or stationary shops.
Allright... where can I find info on SDL? all I could find were forum posts saying how all their guns are nerf copies... not even an official website or a wikipedia page. I doubt that they are at my local big-box stores, but is there any way to have it shipped or even contact them?
ReplyDeletePeter,
ReplyDeleteSDL is more like a "knock-off" brand, so you are unlikely to find them at major dept stores.
You'll have to look for them at the smaller independent toy shops.
how do you prevent the glue from sticking to the brass mold piece?
ReplyDeleteJoseph,
ReplyDeleteHot glue is generally a very weak adhesive and doesn't really stick securely to the metal mold pieces (or anything else for that matter), you can just push the hot glue tip out easily.
i tried this method on a stephan, not to waste a decent dart, but it stuck to the brass tubing rather well. Could my glue gun be too hot?
ReplyDeletealso out of curiosity, would the felt pads stick well if i just used a bit of hot glue to hold the eraser in the dart, with the top of the dart still being flush (no glue on surface) or is it the glue that gives the felt pad a base to stick to?
Joseph,
ReplyDeleteWell, i guess it also depends on the type of hot glue you use, some versions tend to adhere more than others. You have to make sure the hot glue cools and solidifies completely (it'll have a consistency like dense rubber), then push the moulded hot glue tip out of the brass mould tube section.
You could also attach the soft padding directly to the tip with abit of hot glue as its adhesive too, but you'll have to test if the tip is secure enough.
The modded blasters i usually use in Nerf games are quite high powered and the tip weights tend to detach when they are fired if the tips are not 100% secure. Thats why i create a moulded tip which melts the foam and hot glue together for a permanent bond.
In the event of any foam dart damage, the entire foam dart will split apart lengthwise instead of the tip detaching. :)
impressive! ;) I don't quite think my longshot is that powerfull, as thats what these would be used in, because my stephans are still slightly unbalanced and i want to get some more accuracy. However i was thinking of re-inforcing my bolt sled and then adding a mcmaster-carr k26 spring, to get a bit more power, but for the most part i participate in indoor wars, so it might be overkill.
ReplyDeleteJust out of curiosity why didn't you use tape like in your previous guide for the calibration darts i think??
Have you ever tried this on stock darts?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWx_KrMCtyw&feature=player_embedded
i was just curious, because i would be modding stock darts, and am looking for the simplest way to achieve accuracy, or stephans for that matter.
Oh btw all this is shot through a angel breech, or maybe brass breech NF rifle.
How long do you recommend the eraser to be for a stock NF?
ReplyDeleteJoseph,
ReplyDeleteYup, i usually use tape to wrap around the dart tips to narrow them slightly for smoother chambering in brass barrels (and for personal dart identification), but it just wasn't shown in my guide this time around. :)
As for the video, i've tested such dart mods before years back and while there is an increase in range when fired from modded blasters due to the heavier tips, the dart accuracy is still terrible... its mainly because Nerf darts have sub-optimal weight balance and odd foam characteristics, which is why i don't use Nerf darts (stock or converted) in my modded blasters.
Nowadays, i either convert only SDL darts or custom make darts from FBR to get the best of both range and accuracy. :)
Derick,
ReplyDeleteIt depends on the weight and density of the eraser sticks you are using. Different eraser brands actually have different weight.
But as a general guide, most modders use 5mm-10mm lengths for stock blasters, and 15-25mm lengths for modded blasters.
Its best to make a few darts with the various lengths to test in your blasters, then you can find the right tip weights for them.
SgNerf what are SDL darts?and are FDL darts suitable for nerf wars since they are weighed with metal?
ReplyDeleteZul,
ReplyDeleteSDL darts are a 3rd-party brand of foam darts, you can get them from a number of independent toy stores in Singapore.
FDL darts are generally allowed for most of the Nerf games that are organised over at the NerfSG forum, they have sufficient padding at their tips to cushion the impacts and have been tested to be safe during normal game usage.
thanks SgNerf i got interested into customizing my stock darts into better ones and i want to buy good darts to replace my stock ones...found FDL darts at black tactical cheap.any tips on dartsmithing would be much appreciated :D you can pm me in NerfSG.my nickname is Forester
ReplyDeleteZul,
ReplyDeleteLook out for the discussions in the real-time chat box at the NerfSG forum, sometimes you'll spot the modders and experienced players exchanging information on various new tested methods of custom calibrating foam darts. :)
oh okay..thanks SgNerf
ReplyDeleteKnow any place I can find the 17/32 brass tubing? I've searched google and went around many hardware shops in my area but cant find the size :(
ReplyDeletePlease help!
Ryan =],
ReplyDeleteI use brass tubes from K&S Engineering brand, perhaps you can find stores which carry that brand via this site:
http://www.ksmetals.com/retail.html
hey SgNerf..if the game host say no hot glue tipped dart is allowed,does it mean your method above is not allowed?thanks alot SgNerf because i started using your method :)
ReplyDeleteZul,
ReplyDeleteYou'll have to clarify with the game organiser on the specifics of their foam dart restrictions.
Some organisers may only allow hot glue tipped foam darts which have soft padding installed... while some organisers may not allow hot glue tipped foam darts in any form altogether.
So just check beforehand to make sure.
Thanks Sg Nerf, but i started using my version of converted stefans and they work wonderfully. Btw, i may be getting a longshot, and am planning to remove to ars. I have 2 questions though.
ReplyDelete1. Would a piece of craft foam be good enough for padding?
2. How much range does removing the ars add without an extra spring?
Derick,
ReplyDeleteCraft foam can also be used for the plunger padding. If necessary, add more layers to increase the padding thickness for better impact absorption.
If only the ARs are removed but the stock spring is still intact, the range increase should still be around an additional 10-15ft.
Thanks for answering all my questions SG nerf. I really appreciate it. Also, is a second layer of craft foam needed? Take it as if you were modding it. Would you add a second layer?
ReplyDeleteDerick,
ReplyDeleteWell, i'll usually put as much plunger padding as possible, more is always better. :)
Not too much though, have to test and make sure the blaster can still be operated properly with thicker plunger padding.
how do i make my nerf streamline dart to not tear so often.i modded and painted my longstrike and it seems to break very easily and my darts seem to "de-form" themselves when i keep it in the clip for too long.
ReplyDeletefake,
ReplyDeleteFoam darts are wear and tear items so they will always get worn out after some usage, you'll have to just replace them as and when needed.
Don't leave foam darts in the clips for extended periods of time, that will naturally deform them and reduce their performance. In addition, the clip springs will also get weakened by being stored in a constantly compressed position.
sgnerf,is there any place in Singapore that sells the 17/32 brass tubing?like local hardware shop?
ReplyDeletesomebody,
ReplyDeleteCheck the "Modification Materials Directory" thread at the NerfSG forum:
http://www.nerfsg.freeforums.org/modification-materials-directory-updated-19th-july-2011-t930.html
Is normal streamline or elite darts will always fishtails if used in modded nerf gun?
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteYes, both normal streamlines and elite foam darts still tend to swerve erratically and fishtail, especially when used in modded blasters.
Can you upload a video how to make the custom weighted foam darts and describe the step and the materials?
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteJust check my Calibrated Foam Darts Conversion guide:
http://www.modworks.blogspot.com/2010/08/custom-calibrated-foam-darts-conversion.html
Thanks for that
DeleteDo you think elite dart foam would be better than normal streamline foam for most blasters? I've heard that the elite foam is bad in brass, so would using elite foam be bad in a brass breech?
ReplyDeleteAnonymous,
DeleteWell, the stock weight and balance of Elite and Streamline foam darts are not optimized for modded blasters, so their overall performance both tend to be erratic and inconsistent in higher powered blasters.
In addition, stock foam darts generally have a loose fit in 9/16" brass barrels... and also tend to be too tight a fit for 17/32" brass barrels (depending on foam production batch).
Its usually best to source for foam which fit the barrel material properly (so that they get a good seal, but yet don't get restricted), then work on finding the optimal tip weights to match the modded blasters.